I am having problems with my woofer not powering on. I have taken it all apart and the fuse underneath the circuit board is good. I was wondering about the resistor. Could it be the resistor? What else can I try. All the sudden one day it will turn on out of nowhere. Every time I unplug the woofer or shut it off it will not power back on. Than out of nowhere in the next couple days it will power on.
Subwoofer (Acoustimas 15) will not power on. Having trouble removing the case to look inside. I remove the dials (for Bass and LFE levels) and try to slide the plastic case off but it won't budge. I try to gently pry it off with a screwdriver but am afraid of breaking it. So, is there something I am not doing right to remove the cover? I need to get at the fuse to see if it is open
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Re: woofer not powering on
The powersupply is most likely the cause and would need to be replaced. Fuse is most likely ok, some parts of the powersuply would need to be replaced, id recommend replaceing the whole psu (powersupplyunit)
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You should look at the circuit board for the power amplifier and check for any leaking or bulged electrolytic capacitors. If this speaker uses the circuit boards made by AMI (such as most JBL and Mission sub woofers around 1999-2001 vintage) they had a lot of problems with this as well as bad modules. Google for the module S53AMI and you will find lots of info if this is what you have in that Athena.
The fuse protects the power supply. The power amps have failed. The usual cause is an arc between layers of the multi-layer circuit board. The labor to repair the power amp module is extensive. I have repaired several.
You can find new amp modules and I would purchase a new one and drop into your unit. The amp module is an HCA2400.
There is probably $15 of parts blown in each side of the power amp and it takes about 6 hours to repair. One has to grind out the burned area (internal layers not necessarily visible on surface) and re-insulate and then install jumper wires to replace those taken out.
Each side of the amp will likely take out 3 switching MOSFET transistors and often a Zener diode. Sometimes a low resistance metering resistor will be fried with smoky residue underneath the board. When this happens two small surface mounted resistors will be blown open. Great care has to be taken when insulating the board damage and replacement of the blown circuit traces.
You can find HCA2400 power amp module replacements for about $175 online.
Use of the unit as an unpowered mixer is a bit dangerous as if arc re-establishes it can fry the power supply taking out two very expensive IGBT's and many other components. If the mixer still works, then your whole power supply is still OK.
Check for impedance ( resistance) in ohms on the speakers disconnected from the circuit using a volt/ohm meter. I think the woofers are 8 ohms and the tweeters are 8 ohms. Also check for bad solder joints where the jacks are soldered to the circuit boards.
Since this is a power sub woofer, it may have an amplifier problem that would require professional service. Yoiu can start by checking the fuse. Make sure the sub woofer is not plugged into the wall when you check it. Some of these powered sub woofers have the fuse right on the panel where the cord goes into. It may have a round cap and you turn it and pull the fuse out. If the fuse is blackend or you can see that the filiment inside the fuse it broken, you can replace the fuse with the same rating of fuse. The rating is on the metal tab at one end of the fuse or may also be listed right next to the cap for the fuse holder. If the fuse is not accesable from the panel, you need to remove panel and look for it where the power cord comes into the panel. It will be right in line with the power cord. The panel for most sub woofers are normally held on by screws all the way around the panel. You should only need to take the outside screws (around the edge of panel) off of the panel. The inside screws hold on the circuit boards, connectorsm and transformer.
If you had given more information about the problem with your sub woofer I could have given you a better answer, but with the limited information given all I can suggest right now is to check the fuse. That is always a good starting point. If you give me more information I may be able to help you much more, I have repaired many powered sub woofers but not this model. Most are very similar and can be checked with minimal effort. You would need to have a multimeter to check almost everything else with the sub woofer. Let me know if you have a multimeter and are willing to check it further. Anything less than a "FixYa!" rating is really not a good rating, so please do not rate this solution until we have had a chance to communicate more about the problem. That way I will not be given a bad rating when I have not had a chance to actually help you yet since I can not tell you how to fix your problem without more information.
The problem are worsen that before. It is wisely to replace both left and right amplifier
IC, but make ensure that the power supply feed a good amount of voltage to amplifier,
Also a strong good signal. Be sure to measure it.
I had the same problem. The screws around the perimeter of the back plate must be unscrewed and the plate must be pried off as it is glued to the box. When replacing my fuse, 2A 5x20 GMA, it blew the fuse again. Disconnecting the second circuit board prevented the next fuse from blowing, but now the question is what is wrong with the circuit board? I cannot see any damage or shorts.