Question about GE 21.7 Cu. Ft. Top-Mount Refrigerator with Internal Water Dispenser - Stainless-Steel

2 Answers

GE Top-Mount Refrigerator GTH22SHS, freon escape?

I have a GE Top-Mount Refrigerator (model GTH22SHS), went away for weekend came back and refrigerator is room temperature top and bottom. Called GE Repair, guy came out and hooked up laptop did tests and determined that all freon had leaked out. Said would be $600-$700 (ouch) to fix and better to get a new one.

Does this sound right to the experts out there? How could all the freon disappear over a weekend? Should I get a second opinion or is it toast?

Lastly, what brand of similar size/ cost refrigerator would you suggest? Not going to get another GE, 5 yo. fridge should NOT just up and loose all its freon!

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  • Tim Wilson May 15, 2010

    Does not sound right. Does the machine sound like it is running?

  • the00flaw May 15, 2010

    Well after fridge shopping all yesterday, woke up this morning and 'broken' fridge is cold and making ice. How's that possible? obviously all the freon didn't leak out, so what was really the problem? GE Repair guy must have improperly diagnosed the problem. Wish I could have asked him more questions, but there was a bit of a language barrier. Glad I didn't buy a new fridge last night, but now I'm worried it'll quit working again and spoil a bunch more food.

    Any expert out there want to take a guess on what actually happened with my fridge?

    FYI to all; GE Repair in Seattle seems to be incompetent and only about recommending you buy a new GE product, not fixing what's wrong with the one you own.

  • the00flaw May 16, 2010

    Well after fridge shopping all yesterday, woke up this morning and 'broken' fridge is cold and making ice. How's that possible? obviously all the freon didn't leak out, so what was really the problem? GE Repair guy must have improperly diagnosed the problem. Wish I could have asked him more questions, but there was a bit of a language barrier. Glad I didn't buy a new fridge last night, but now I'm worried it'll quit working again and spoil a bunch more food.

    Any expert out there want to take a guess on what actually happened with my fridge?

    FYI to all; GE Repair in Seattle seems to be incompetent and only about recommending you buy a new GE product, not fixing what's wrong with the one you own.

  • the00flaw May 16, 2010

    Original poster again, well this morning the ice in the fridge is melting and it's warming up again. It sounds like it did before with fans running all the time.

    Questions for AASC about the thermistors: Do you still think they are the problem, and if so why? Is there a way to test them? Also the GE technician hooked up a diagnostic laptop to the fridge, wouldn't that tell him if the thermistors were bad? Lastly do you have a place online where you would buy the replacement thermistors?

    Thanks again.

  • the00flaw May 16, 2010

    Original poster again, well this morning the ice in the fridge is melting and it's warming up again. It sounds like it did before with fans running all the time.

    Questions for AASC about the thermistors: Do you still think they are the problem, and if so why? Is there a way to test them? Also the GE technician hooked up a diagnostic laptop to the fridge, wouldn't that tell him if the thermistors were bad? Lastly do you have a place online where you would buy the replacement thermistors?

    Thanks again.

  • the00flaw May 16, 2010

    Original poster here: AASC, I removed the control board from it's mounting pins and flipped it over, saw one small spot where it looks like there should be solder but there isn't, it's along the top edge and just to the right of middle in the (hopefully) attached picture. It looks like it's behind, well not sure, think it's a resistor maybe (larger black cylinder labeled: Rubycon S0517). As you cans see from the picture it doesn't really look like solder burnt away, maybe it wasn't soldered in first place?

    Anyway thanks again. If you think I should just replace the whole control board, do you have a model number and online source?

    [IMGhttp://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m320/...[/IMG]

    Here's a link to the image in case it doesn't attach:
    http://s107.photobucket.com/albums/m320/...

  • the00flaw May 16, 2010

    AASC, thanks for all your help.

    Fridge is running again, I heard the compressor kick on when I was unscrewing the control board access panel, and it is now getting colder again (weird).

    I think your right about the problem being the control board relay and I'll see if I can order a replacement board.

    Thanks again, really appreciate your help.

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  • GE Master
  • 1,606 Answers

Even though technicians may wear a patch which says GE , is does not mean they are electronic refrigerator capable . Most probably know very little refrigerator repair .
From your description , it sounds like the 2 freezer thermistors could be bad . 1 is located on the freezer side panel inside a small oval housing . This thermistor tells the main control board , the actual freezer temp and when to cycle on / off . The second thermistor is located on the top of the coils , behind the inside rear freezer wall . This thermistor is " clipped " to the coils . Both are 1 " long , torpedo looking pieces , which you can easily replace ( only 2 wires to each ) . The thermistor on the coils , tell the main board the coil temperature and when to defrost .
The part number for both is WR55X10025 and cost about $10.00 each .

Posted on May 16, 2010

Testimonial: "Very helpful, three quick replies with helpful answers, knew part numbers. Thanks!!"

  • Mike Smith
    Mike Smith May 16, 2010

    Due to " the fans are running , but just not cold " this is a control board problem . The compressor relay on the board is going bad . Replaceing the board is about the only option , unless ... you remove the board , and on the ' soldered side " just behind one of the black boxes , you see a " bullseye " which is where the soldered joint has melted away from the actual component pin . Just resolder that pin . Otherwise , replace the board which is located behind the refrig , behind an 8 X 10 small panel . Cost is about 150.00 for the board .

    If the fans had NOT come on and the refrig was warm , then the thermistors most likely would be the problem . The thermistors work by resistance to the cold temperature . A slight temp change could cause the reading to go from bad to good . Even with a laptop , deductions still have to be made , depending on the readings one gets . It cannot tell him exaxtly what the problem is .You kind of answered the laptop question yourself . He said its out of refrigerant due to his laptop reading , but , the refrig cooled by the next day . No refrigerant.....no cool . Cannot be..no refrigerant...cool normally next day .

  • Mike Smith
    Mike Smith May 16, 2010

    WR55X10942 is the part number for the board . I didn't see the normal bullseye on your board , meaning that the relay is bad internally . All parts on the refrig go to the board . It will run about 153.00 , depending on where you can aquire one .

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  • Expert
  • 308 Answers

It is possible to loss an entire refrigerant charge over the weekend, but usually that would involve some type of "trauma" to the unit itself. These systems are all factory sealed, and for all intents and purposes should hold a charge forever. Now that is not to say that you didn't have a leak, and that it took five years to fully empty out, but by your question it sounds like it was working normally before you left. The price for the repair doesn't sound out of the ordinary, but usually you don't just add refrigerant without fixing the leak, which could end up costing considerably more. I would suggest, in the cost is not to much, having someone else take a look at it. BTW, I personally own a Kenmore, and it has been great for me. Hope this helps.

Posted on May 15, 2010

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