Question about Mitsubishi WS-55511 55" Rear Projection Television

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Red Green Blue jets appear to be off. Double images and shadows instead of a clear picture. Looks like 3D without the glasses.

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  • crossclan2 May 17, 2010

    This sounds helpful. How do I get your step by step, start to finish instructions?

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  • Mitsubishi Master
  • 14,553 Answers

You have a common problem.

This model (WS55511) uses a single convergence chip and after 5-8 years it fails. I will attach a photo of what the chip looks like and also a typical convergence problem.

I have fixed hundreds of these sets with this problem.
If you are handy or know someone who is I have available step by step, start to finish instructions for this repair in this model set.

They tell you everything you will need and how to do it from beginning to end.

Parts cost (On EBAY) is about 14 dollars for the chip plus shipping.

Let me know if you want the instructions and I will post them here for you to copy/paste.

SD TECH

Red Green Blue jets appear to be off. Double - c7deaa9.jpg

Posted on May 14, 2010

  • 3 more comments 
  • SD Tech
    SD Tech May 14, 2010

    here is what the part needed looks like:




  • SD Tech
    SD Tech May 18, 2010

    HERE is what you will need: (most of this you can buy on the internet or at local electronics stores)

    one new: STK-393-110 CONVERGENCE IC
    One good soldering iron
    Solder
    De soldering braid or wick
    Liquid flux
    Heat sink compound (grease)
    Denatured alcohol
    One short Philips screwdriver
    One small clean toothbrush
    One electric screw gun to REMOVE screws

    Turn the set on and examine the picture for how the Convergence looks bad---when you are done examine it again---once in a great while you will get and install a new IC that is bad. Remember this when you have finished-if the convergence is still bad but different from what you started with you may have installed a new I.C. that was bad. Turn the Set off.


    1) Unplug the TV set.

    2) Remove back cover.

    3) Remove front speaker grill and inspection plate behind it.

    4) Remove the 2 or 3 black screws that go thru the back edge of the plastic frame that hold the chassis down.

    5) Where all the video and audio jacks are on the right edge of them you will see a diagonal plastic (Black) remove the two brass screws from the outside edge, remove another to the right bottom and a third smaller screw forward and to the left; remove plastic piece and all four screws and set them aside.

    6) Look carefully at main board in center of the set. You will find a number of screws hold it into the plastic frame.

    7) Towards the left back edge of this (to the right of the plastic you removed) you will find a metal cover with a small screw on either end. It has a lot of round holes punched in it.8) Remove both screws and pull the shield up and off---remove the board beneath it by releasing the two tabs on the bottom right side and pulling the board out-handle it with care as it is the digital convergence board that stores the set’s memory of adjustments. Set it aside

    8) Remove both screws and pull the shield up and off---remove the board beneath it by releasing the two tabs on the bottom right side and pulling the board out-handle it with care as it is the digital convergence board that stores the set’s memory of adjustments. Set it aside

    9) At this point you need to pull the entire Chassis back at least a few inches---If it does not slide back look for a plastic latch on either side near the front of it. Some sets have the latches on the left or right side-black plastic tabs that lift up.

  • SD Tech
    SD Tech May 18, 2010

    10) Usually the board has 2 screws in the front and rear corners of the board and one almost dead center in the middle of the board---make sure you get all of them out before you remove the board.

    11) When you removed the back there was a diagonal board that slides out just below the lens; pull it out and it will give you more room to continue.

    12) There are a number of plugs on the board. Some of these sets have a small circuit board located at the very front of the middle board with plugs going into in, release the tabs at the bottom and pull the board up and out of your way.

    13) Now you should see 5 white fold over plugs---three on the left edge and two on the right---do not touch them yet.

    14) With the little board(if your set has it) out, unplug the several plugs at the front edge of the board(they are all idiot proof---different number of pins so you cannot put them in the wrong place) and are marked with letters that are also marked on the board. There is another 2 wire plug mid way to the right side of the board.

    15) Now the Tricky part: the 3 ivory color plugs on the left side that fold over and 2 more on the right side. You need to do this carefully---with a small flat bladed screwdriver pull up on one end until each comes loose(the reason we removed the board under the shield and the plastic piece (there usually is also a plug under it that you need to unplug) is to make this part more easy.

    16) Once you have all 5 of these lifted up and out of the way check to make sure you have not left any plugs still attached to the board.

    17) Pull the entire chassis back as far as you can get it (you may have to release wires on either side of the set from the plastic ties that bundle them---take your time).

    18) Note the very large metal Heat sink in the middle board towards the front; if you look from the front of the set thru the inspection plate you will see the IC with a metal plate that runs across in the middle-there is one screw to remove here---two ways to get it out: you can remove it from the front of the set or what I do is use a short Philips and get it from the back by touch. Get it out and remove the metal plate and set all aside.

    19) From the back of the set slide the chassis as far back as you can. There are 3 more screws on the front edge of the heat sink that hold it to the board and the middle one has a wire with a connector on it. This is the reason you need to get the chassis back; the screws are identical to the others and go thru the circuit board into the frame where it is mounted.

    20) You should now be able to lift the entire Heat sink from the set (sometimes you may need a putty knife to break the IC chip loose from it) Set it aside and look the board over to make sure you have not missed any of the identical brass colored screws.

    21) Move any plugs clear of the board. There are 2 or 3 tiny plastic tabs at the front edge of the board; push them and lift the board up from the frame---do it slowly and if you missed any screws you will find it binds somewhere. The board lifts up front and is tucked into notches on the back side---Once it is clear of the plugs remove it from the set. You are halfway home.

    22) With the board removed look at the dozen or so light blue resistors right in front of the two STK IC’s; if any of them look somewhat white in the middle you need to replace them-they are all 3.9 ohm and you can check them with a multi-meter just like checking a fuse-I usually check them all even if they look good (saves having to pull the board out a second time).

    23) They are protection in case some part of the two IC’s short. If the resistors are all good you need to un-solder the STK.

    24) With a good soldering iron use a braided wick (called a de-solder braid-radio shack has them) and to make it easier use some liquid flux---most electronics stores sell this. These sets all use lead free solder and it may not be easy to unsolder without the flux put on it first.

  • SD Tech
    SD Tech May 18, 2010

    25) Once you have unsoldered both and removed them take some denatured alcohol with a tooth brush and clean the bottom of the board where the STK’s were soldered in-this gets all the flux and any tiny solder specs out of the way. Let the board dry for a minute or so and look at it carefully---if you have to, use the de-solder wick again and clean up any solder on the board where the IC’s came thru-clean again with alcohol if you need to-the cleaner the surface the better and faster the new solder will attach.

    26) Install the new IC---make sure all the pins are straight or you will have problems getting it in-with one in place hold it and turn the board over and solder the pins at either end to keep it there; AT THIS POINT APPLY MORE SOLDER FLUX TO ALL THE PINS BEFORE YOU SOLDER THE IC IN!

    27) Straighten it if you did not get it upright and finish soldering all the pins. When you are done with this take a good light and a very close look at all the pins to make sure they are all soldered and not touching another pin. You can also use the denatured alcohol again to clean all the pins on the two IC’s you just soldered.

    28) With the IC soldered install the circuit board back into the set---back edge first into the notches at the back of the plastic frame---make sure you do not hang up on any plugs or connectors; with the front edge of the board gently push down until the tabs on the front edge engage-the board must be perfectly straight to go in correctly.

    29) With a putty knife remove all the old white grease from the heat sink (careful-this stuff stains hands or clothing) and clean the heat sink with denatured alcohol. You are now ready to attach many of the plugs back to the board; you will find if you do it now it is easier to reach them with the heat sink removed---put all of the main plugs back and leave the fold over plugs for last.

    30) If you had the model with the small plug in circuit board on the front of the main board-install it after you have installed the plugs in front of it.

    31) A note about the 3 plugs on the left edge and the two on the right edge---you have to be careful when you snap them back in---sometimes one of the metal pins will lift up when you do this---hold your fingers down and apply even pressure---if you see any metal pin sticking up a little use a fine flat bladed screwdriver and carefully push it back down into the plug.

    32) Presuming you have now installed the board and have ALL the plugs back in place, slide the chassis back until the latches engage---any wires or cables you moved to get room you should now put back into the plastic hold off that contained them-clean up!

  • SD Tech
    SD Tech May 18, 2010

    33) Before you install the heat sink back, apply heat sink grease (important and you can get it at almost any electronics supplier that sells the liquid Flux and solder) This grease is the reason the original IC failed-after several years it dries out and an IC cannot move the heat fast enough---the grease is for quick transfer of heat from the IC to the metal heat sink.

    34) Now: if you used an electric screw gun to remove screws---do not use it to put them back-it is very easy to crack and damage the board if you use a screw gun and to strip the screws that go into the heat sink.

    35) Place the greased heat sink back in position and attach the 3 screws that hold it to and thru the board---I find starting all three and then tightening them by hand works best; don’t forget to put the wire with the grommet back to the middle screw.

    36) Replace the metal plate that goes across the chip and hold it in place until you get the middle screw back in them it firm it holds the IC tight to the heat sink).

    37) With the heat sink installed, install the board on the left side back by plugging it in and install the metal box (shield) over it and the screws front and back by hand.Check that you have all the plugs you removed plugged back in.

    38) Replace all the screws that hold the board into the plastic frame.

    39) Install the diagonal plastic piece you removed and by hand replace the 4 screws that hold it in place.

    40) Take a good look now to make sure all the plugs are back in place and installed correctly.

    41) Slide the entire Chassis back into place.

    42) Before you replace the screws that hold the chassis down (usually 2 or three long screws) turn the set on and see what you have----if it comes on and looks fairly normal you are ready to proceed.At this point you have two choices---you can go into the customer menu and select CONVERGENCE---there will be detailed instructions on screen for the center and fine adjustments---MOST Mitsubishi sets need to have the convergence adjusted in the regular and then in the HD mode---go to a HD channel if you have HD signal and adjust the convergence there.

    43) There is a TECHNICAL mode where you can do this but it requires knowing a number sequence by MODEL number---it adjusts just like the customer mode but IT SAVES THESE ADJUSTMENTS INTO THE SET’S MEMORY.

    44) Adjusting in the customer menu may not save the adjustments-if the set gets unplugged it will go back to whatever it was before. In the Technical mode you enter by pushing MENU and a 4 digit number code for the model you have and then pushing enter, you exit by pushing HOME on the remote twice-all this is done with the original Mitsubishi remote-you need to have an original working remote for this.

    45) If you were careful and lucky all went well and you now have a working set. The two new IC’s should be good for 3 to 5 years and many go 8 years.

    46) If you had any problems recheck everything you did in the process to make sure you missed nothing----take your time and usually it works fine.

    47) I have done this hundreds of times and usually it is easy---it sounds a little complicated but after you do it

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