Question about Dometic WA3210 Compact Refrigerator

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How many winds on the tension spring for a dometic 9100 series awning for initial setting? I heard 1-2 feet out from coach, wind 13 times is standard

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  • Dometic Master
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2 ft away from coach,wall, awning rail etc.
up to 12ft long awning = 8 turns
13-14 ft = 9 turns
15-16 ft = 10 turns
16.5 - 18ft. = 12 turns
19 ft-up = 13 turns.

Be real careful, !!! seen many a finger/hand injured if not experienced.

Posted on May 16, 2010

  • Al williamson Mar 25, 2015

    Is this a motorized awning? Which direction to apply tension

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My sunshade is jamming on the way back into the housing (automated system) causing the shade to fall down in folds.


more than likely u lost the spring tension. whatever you do. do not try to take it apart, if there is any tension at all. it will come undone and you can and will lose fingers. you can wind it up but need to know what the manufacturers name is and size of awning...

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Tension on dometic 9100 motorized awning?


The motor is supposed to hold tension against the spring at the opposite end. If the awning is loose, the spring may need to be replaced. If it still rolls out/up fine, it's the spring. Also, if it's the vinyl fabric it can stretch over time and not be quite as tight.

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Hi Ced,

I would syphon out the water and tighten the awning. If the fabric has stretched too much from the sagging, you may need to add a stabilizer or replace it.

I found a great eHow article that will walk you through the steps for both scenarios: http://www.ehow.com/how_12125906_fix-sagging-awning.html

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1 Answer

My A&E 9100 Power awning has had a motor go out twice in three months,


Yep ~ exposed wires to the weather elements PLUS the stress and flex-action as you open and close your awnings can quickly lead to disaster (again)!

Perhaps a GENEROUS amount of clear (tube) RTV SILICONE applied to the wire access hole/point AT your Motor?

Since you are replacing MOTORS often ~ perhaps the real cause failures are the MECHANICAL FLEXIBLE JOINTS of your AWNING ~ (being) too stiff offering too much mechanical resistance to your MOTOR?

> YOU DO< have a lot of them so CAREFULLY spray just enough 'garage door lubricant' to them to assure minimal resistance to awning movement and motor movement!

Also it seems that everybody ~ including your motor mfg. ~ wants to save a buck so they substitute smaller wires (internally and externally) or any other 'trick' that will shave down their costs! So try to hunt for a older (new) motor... perhaps that will extend the life of same...

Sadly your motor looks rather specialized so finding a beefier / stronger replacement (at less cost) looks like slim chances... I was thinking of maybe a older satellite 'C-Band' dish motor? Those puppies are STRONG and built to handle LOTS of TORQUE-stress due to HIGH wind issues on the surface. DIsh motors are also VERY reasonable in cost!

Do you have a 'machine-shop friend
d that can help and make special brackets ~ and perhaps modified motors may be your ultimate answer?

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Snow blower recoil rope broke tied back up and now will not recoil


Unless the recoil spring is broken, then you may have neglected to pre-load the recoil spring. With the recoil unit off of the motor, wind the rope fully around the pulley. Then, while keeping the rope fully wound, turn the pulley about 5 times around in the direction that would push the hope out through the hole. At this point the recoil spring will be trying to spin. Without losing that tension, push the end of the rope out through the hole, thereby putting a bit more tension on the recoil spring. Tie on the handle. Now, when you let go of the rope, the spring should hold the handle snug against the hole. An alternative method is to use a rope about 2 to 3 feet longer than the original. Wind it fully around the spool and put the end of it through the hole. Now pull the extra length through the hole until the tension is sufficient. Cut off the extra length and tie on the handle.
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Hi and welcome to Fixya. I believe that the wind is affecting the draft. What I would recommend is to install a cap on the flue that is similar to a weather vane in that it rotates to block the wind from creating a downdraft in the flue. Some times depending on the direction and strength of the wind it will come up over the roof peak and then down the flue. A regular fixed cap may work too. You should be able to purchase one at your local hardware store. Please let me know if this was helpful. Good luck.

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