Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer
If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links explain how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
On a Whirlpool Duet series dryer, the heating circuits are located inside the unit under the drum on the right hand side. You need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. Locate and remove the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel and it will drop down, then come off. You may have to prop the two front feet of the unit up for better access. Placing a 2x4 under the front feet works well for this.
The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals (farthest to the back of the dryer). The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:
The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.
NOTE: In many cases the problem is not the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.
NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.
Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that will also help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.
Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.
Posted on May 14, 2010
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Nov 22, 2012 | Dryers
Investigate these five areas if your dryer is not heating up:
If your dryer won't heat up, it's possible that it is not being supplied with the proper voltage. Here are three ways to make sure power is getting to your dryer: First, make sure your dryer is plugged in. Next, check the circuit breaker panel to make sure all the circuit breakers are in the correct positions. Finally, check to make sure no fuses in your fuse panel are blown. Any of these could explain why power is not getting to your dryer.
It is possible that your dryer isn't heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so that you can test it.
Oct 08, 2012 | Whirlpool LGQ9858P Gas Dryer
It is possible that your dryer isn't
heating because its heating element is defective. Heating elements are
irrepairable. If yours has ceased to function properly, you will have to
replace it. Open your dryer's cabinet and locate the heating element so
that you can test it.
Another possible cause for a dryer not
heating up could be attributed to a faulty thermal fuse. Once a dryer's
thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse
is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and
locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.
If any of your dryer's thermostats have
become defective, they could be the reason that your dryer is not
heating. Open up your dryer's cabinet and test each of your dryer's
thermostats. If any are faulty, replace them.
A defective timer motor could also
cause your dryer to not heat up. Test your dryer's timer motor. If it is
no longer functioning as it should, replace either the entire motor
assembly, or just its motor.
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