Question about Refrigerators

2 Answers

Kenmore Fridge #596

My refrigerator has a problem between the defrost timer and the compressor i think. i have power at the defrost timer but no power at the evaporator motor fan assembly. the fan in back works fine so i dont believe it is the compressor. Any Suggestions? Thanks in advance.

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  • jg5894 Mar 30, 2008

    thanks for the quick reply. When checking the voltage i have power to 2 of the 4 leads at the defrost timer and power to one of the 2 wires that connect to the evaporator motor.(not including the ground wire) There is one wire that goes from the defrost timer to the evaporator motor that is not working. Do you think the problem is the defrost timer or a bad wire? Thanks

  • jg5894 Mar 30, 2008

    I cant find anything else wrong so i guess tomorrow i will replace the defrost timer and see if that is the problem. If not i will have someone come and take a look at it. They wont have much as far as labor is concerned seeing how i have it taken apart already. Even though i hear the timer working after having the fridge plugged in for 30 min. the dial never moved.

  • jg5894 Mar 31, 2008

    How do i check if it is the defrost thermostat? i think it might be the defrost thermostat. That is connected to the evap motor which was not working. I tested the evap motor and it works on its own. Is it possible that the defrost thermostat would keep the evap fan motor from turning? Thanks for your help dawnn. It is really appreciated.

  • jg5894 Mar 31, 2008

    well i replaced both the timer and thermostat and no luck. If i bypass the thermostat timer the motor works. Any suggestions?

  • jg5894 Apr 01, 2008

    Well problem solved! Not sure if it was the timer or thermostat. In my fridge which is actually an Amana the thermostat needs to be cold for the fan to come on. So after an hour or so of it being on the fan kicked in. Thanks again for your help Dawnn.

  • frost_prob Jun 09, 2008

    Kenmore #596 with freezer on bottom. Have major frost buildup on heater. Have checked that the heater itself has continuity between ends. Defrost thermostat is visible just above the heater and not sure how to check that. Was going to try to replace the thermostat and the heater timer but cannot find the heater timer. I've looked in back, in refrigerator, in freezer. Any ideas on where to find this would be appreciated.

  • patrick183 Oct 03, 2008

    I have the same problem and I am trying to get the light apart to get to the defrost timer and I am having trouble getting it apart? Any tricks?

  • yogachick911 Mar 28, 2009

    For the past 9 months, I have major ice buildup at the back of my freezer (Kenmore #596 bottom-freezer). My freezer is barely freezing anything at all. I manually defrost it about every 10 weeks (what a mess), and then it is ok for a while. Have been fearful to call Sears - I can't even imagine what it will cost. And I can't find out without knowing the diagnosis - of course. I don't trust them!



    Is this an expensive fix? Appox $$$?

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I found the defrost timer for my Kenmore 596.62239200 / freezer on bottom. it was in the top of the refrigerator compartment behind the light bulb console. had to remove the light bulb cover and then there are two visible screws that hold the defrost timer to the light console. the timer is up on top of the console and is not easily seen. ordered parts on www.repairclinic.com.

Posted on Jun 13, 2008

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Replace defrost timer and check door switches and defrost thermostat for open circuit, the ground side is what these circuits are switched by.

Posted on Mar 30, 2008

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  • CHRIS KLINGER Mar 30, 2008

    the problem is likely to be in the defrost timer, very seldom is it a broken wire, there is something breaking the circuit somewhere. remember to check all of the door switches also. some ge fridges also use the mullion heaters as well to complete this circuit, you can check them with a meter as well for an open circuit. good luck, sometimes these problems can be difficult to locate. if you can't find the open circuit, let me know. there are other alternatives.

  • CHRIS KLINGER Mar 31, 2008

    did you check the defrost thermostat? when cold it should be closed if not it's bad. and the timer should move after 30 minutes regardless.

  • CHRIS KLINGER Apr 01, 2008

    your welcome, yes defrost thermostats need to be cold in order to close the circuit, that's what they do. when they warm up in the defrost cycle they open which causes the heater to disengage.

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Ice buildup on evaporator coils


Can you locate the model number of your Kenmore? The number should look like this 521.345678 and located around the inside of the fresh food section door.
6_25_2012_9_03_46_pm.jpg
It could be that the defrost heater came on the time you were watching bugt may have a bad connection or a defective defrost element. You need to test the heater for continuity to assure that the element is not broken. the defrost timer and defrost thermostat being new eliminates that as being the problem so I think your element or the connection is the most next likely cause, Let me know I don't mind helping, Thanks Sea Breeze

Defrost Heater Testing for Continuity


Jun 23, 2012 | Kenmore 25.1 cu. ft. Side-By-Side...

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What do do if your fridge/freezer is not cold


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm:
1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won’t let air circulate.
2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air.
3- there is no refrigerant in the system.
4- no power to fridge or compressor.
5- the condenser coils have no air circulation

check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn’t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust.

if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it’s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won’t heat up, it’s the timer or the coil.

the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge.

if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked.

if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes:
1. low refrigerant
2. no fan
3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals
4. the condensate drain tube is clogged
5. defrost cycle not functioning properly

if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s).

no air, no fan. Replace

if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional.

there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it’ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it’s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element).

on Dec 02, 2009 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Roper RT18DKXHN00 High Temperature


No I don't think so. I think you either have a stopped up defrost drain or a bad defrost heater and terminator. Get into the evaporation section and check for ice. If the defrost heater is bad replace the defrost terminator thermostat. Would not be a bad idea to replace the timer or adc (auto defrost control). The fins are coils on the compressor should be clean and the fan motor(if applicable) by the compressor should be running when the compressor is.

Jun 16, 2010 | Roper RT16DKXK Top Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Everything in ref freezing up


1)check the temperature setting.it should be set on normal mode. 2) check if the ventilation in the fridge are blocked .there are two possibilities you will have to check 1)the defrost timer 2)the evaporator coil. How a common frost free defrost cycle works and the main parts. When the refrigerator is running ( cooling mode ) the defrost timer contacts prevents any power from getting to the defrost heater. When the defrost timer turns off the power to the compressor and fan motor(s) the power is then redirected to the defrost system. The defrost timer motor. Defrost timers:
The defrost timer is sometimes found behind the front grill of the refrigerator. It may also be found behind a cover plate inside the refrigerator or freezer, in the temperature control console, or behind the refrigerator near the compressor.
The timer is usually held in place with one or more screws. Remove the screws and gently pull the timer out far enough to disconnect the wiring connector.
Locate the timer switch and turn it clockwise until you hear it click. One click and the refrigerator shuts off = defrost mode, second click the compressor and fans come back on = run/cooling mode.
*Some defrost timers are a constant or continuous run timer, which means when ever the refrigerator is plugged in the defrost timer is powered up and running. Some defrost timers are an accumulative run timer, which means when the refrigerator is off the defrost timer is off and not running, when the refrigerator is running the defrost timer is running. This is also sometimes called a demand defrost. The power for the defrost timer goes through the cold control first on an accumulative defrost system. The timers are often the same but will be wired differently to get the different operations.
------
the evaporator coils are located at the inner side of the freezer section.if the ice gets collected in the coil and the evaporator fan stops running then the inner system of refrigerator will get over cool and this problem happens.
--------
now to solve the issue .if to check evaporator coil is faulty or not there is a system.just unplug the unit from main power outlet then wait for 24 hours.then replug the power cord in the main power outlet.in 24 hours all the ice collected in between the coil and anywhere will get melted and then check out.if it works properly the problem was ice in coils.but if same problem then defrost timer needs replacement,you can get new timer friom
--- www.repairclinic.com
--------

This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Nov 10, 2009 | Frigidaire ATF6000ES Front Load Washer

1 Answer

I am also getting massive frost build up on the freezer side


depending on the model, 1-5 years. 5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it?ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it?s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element). defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Sep 11, 2009 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

Fan runs, but does not cool?


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it?ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it?s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element). defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Sep 11, 2009 | Magic Chef Refrigerators

1 Answer

Cleaned the coils but freezer not freezing and inside not getting cold what is wrong


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked. if the freezer has air and the rear freezer wall has frost on it, the evaporator coils are iced up and need defrosting. causes: 1. low refrigerant 2. no fan 3. too much humid air in fridge/freezer due to door open or bad door seals 4. the condensate drain tube is clogged 5. defrost cycle not functioning properly if the seal around the door is ripped or not completely sealing, or there is condensation at the bottom or the walls of the fridge, replace the seal(s). no air, no fan. Replace if the refrigerant is low, it just needs a top off. but you need to be certified by the epa to move refrigerant, so get a professional. there defrost cycle starts with the timer. at a certain time of day for a specific time, the timer turns the compressor off and turns on the heater element located at the bottom of the evaporator coil. this stays on until the coil temp sensor reaches a certain temperature to let the timer know that the coils are defrosted and turns off the power to the element. the defrosted water drains to the condensate pan. if the timer is bad, it will never go into defrost, or never get out of it. if the element is bad, the coils will never defrost. if the temp sensor is bad, it?ll go into defrost, but it will either tell the timer that it?s always frozen or already defrosted, resulting in the element never turning on (stays frosted) or never turning off (eventually burning out the element). defrost solutions: unplug the fridge. remove the wall of the freezer that is frosted/icing up. use a hair dryer to melt the ice. do not get too close. you will see a drain under the evaporator coil. make sure it is not blocked. the water should run freely to a condensate pan under the fridge that evaporates the condensation with the hot line from the compressor. once the coil is free of ice, frost, and water, replace the panel and repair any of the problems that caused the icing up. plug the fridge in and turn it on. If it frosts up within a week, there is still an issue that not been taken care of.

Sep 03, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer is ok, but fridge is not cold enough


5 reasons for fridge and/or freezer getting warm: 1- the evaporator coils are icing up and won?t let air circulate. 2- the evaporator fan is not working to circulate air. 3- there is no refrigerant in the system. 4- no power to fridge or compressor. 5- the condenser coils have no air circulation check under the fridge behind the vent. if it is too dusty or the fan isn?t working, it is not getting enough airflow to cool down. replace fan and/or vacuum out the dust. if there is no power to the fridge, the light will be off. if the compressor is not running, there is a defrost timer that cuts the power temporarily to the compressor to melt ice on the coils. it?s located under the fridge behind the bottom vent. If the timer is off and the compressor is not going, the compressor or the main board is bad and needs replacing. there is also a temperature sensor on the evaporator coils that tells the defrost coil to turn on and when to turn off. if the defrost timer is on but the coil is not heating up, replace the sensor. if it still won?t heat up, it?s the timer or the coil. the easiest way to tell if there is no refrigerant- the freezer wall is warm and the compressor is loud. if there is no refrigerant, it may be more cost effective to replace the fridge. if you feel no air coming from the freezer vent, the fan needs replacing. If you feel air moving in the freezer but not the fridge, the channel from freezer to fridge is blocked.

Sep 01, 2009 | Kenmore Refrigerators

1 Answer

Kenmore 52532101 side by side freezer and refrigerator not cooling - any suggestions? Doesn't appear to be frozen up.


Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

Aug 25, 2009 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

1 Answer

Motor is running but both refrigerator and freezer are not cooling


Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up(totally blocked) because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


Aug 22, 2009 | Jenn-Air Refrigerators

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