a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I suggest you use all new exhaust manifold hardware and torque new bolts to 20 Ft Lbs. 4.5L and 4.9L Engines RIGHT Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe. Disconnect the oxygen and coolant temperature sensors. Remove the catalytic converter-to-AIR pipe clip bolt. Remove the upper manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Disconnect the converter air pipe bracket from the stud and remove the converter-to-manifold exhaust pipe. Support the engine cradle with screw jacks and remove the rear cradle bolts. Loosen the front cradle bolts and slightly lower the Engine cradle. Remove the remaining exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts, the AIR pipe, and the manifold. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. To install: Install the exhaust manifold and replace the AIR pipe. Tighten the manifold mounting bolts to 16-18 ft. lbs. (21-24 Nm). Install the manifold-to-converter exhaust pipe and replace the converter air pipe bracket to the stud. Raise the Engine cradle and install the rear cradle bolts. Tighten to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Lower the vehicle. Replace the upper manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. Replace the converter air pipe to AIR pipe clip bolt. Connect the coolant temperature and oxygen sensor connectors. Replace the exhaust crossover pipe. Replace the air cleaner and connect the negative battery cable. Start the Engine and check for leaks.
1.6)EGR - Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve(actuator) What is it? This is a device that reduces engine emissions of nitric oxides by allowing a measured amount of exhaust gas to re-enter the intake manifold and mix with the air prior to entering the cylinders.The EGR can be vacuum (older types) or electrically driven (modern) or a hybrid combination of both (intermediate age).Adding inert exhaust gas to the intake charge artificially enriches the fuel air mix (by diluting the air) and thereby reduces ignition temperatures associated with lean running conditions Where is it located?The EGR is associated with the intake manifold.The EGR is sited at a point of contact with both the exhaust and intake manifolds.If the exhaust manifold is remote to the inlet manifold, for example onthe other side of the engine, an exhaust feed pipe leading from the exhaustmanifold to the EGR is provided. How does it work?Generally intake manifold vacuum acting on a diaphragm draws up on a pintle valve to open a connection between a (usually round) entry port for the exhaust gases and an exit port (usually rectangular) to the intake manifold.The opening of some modern EGR valves iscompletely under the (ECU) control of an electrical motor/solenoid.Since an open EGR port effectively acts as a vacuum leak in the inlet manifold leading to potential starting and idling difficulties, the EGR valve operation is often impeded by an electrical over-ride at cold/start-up until the engine reaches running temperature and high revs. The ECU takes signals from the coolant temperature sensor to determine when the engine is hot before allowing the EGR to function.In some cases, a differential pressurefeedback exhaust (DPFE) sensor, connected to pipes on the exhaust feed to the EGR, informs the ECU when and by how much the EGR should be open. NEXT 1.6b) EGR faults and how to fix
Locate it first, it is usually in the head parrallel with the exhaust manifold. Then make sure you are removing the right sensor as there are a few in this location, Check by comparing the new one in your hand with the one still on the engine. Then unplug electrical connection remove and replace, Reconnect electrical and your done. Some models make this a pain to remove and you need to remove the exhaust manifold to do it, Always replace gaskets and never try to reuse a torqued gasket.
According to the service literature I read, the 2003 Montero Sport with the 3.0 or 3.5 L engine does not have O2 sensors listed even in the maintenance schedule. The 2.4 L engine has it on the exhaust manifold though. --- However, the following lists the par, though for before or after the catalytic converter:
--- I think that $250 to $300 is reasonable if the Oxygen sensors are stuck in there with rust and the threads are preserved by the technician. Oxygen Sensor replacement can be tricky. --- Good luck on this repair.
Actually, you have two oxygen sensors: primary is in the exhaust manifold(under hood, center, lower engine area, above exhaust pipe flange, mounted in exhaust manifold) and the secondary is in the catalytic converter.
Since the sensor has a electrical wire on it to connect it to its connector, you will need a special wrench to remove it; they can be rented, I believe, at Autozone. Also, they tend to be quite difficult to get started for removal since they are in a manifold that gets very hot then cools down again and again.
Hope this helps you.
The exhaust gas recirculation valve is located on the intake manifold on my Isuzu. All it does is make the exhaust coming out of the tailpipe less poisonous. I'm ironiclly going to replace mine tomorrow. There should be a wiring connecter that you dissconnect and a large outgoing pipe that you need to unthread and remove. All that is holding on your EGR valve are two bolts. Remove those and the gasket and good riddance! Scrape the intake manifold with a razor blade, gently to remove the gasket completely and thread on the gasket to the new valve. Then just rebolt everything and plug in the electrical connection and start the engine. It should sound good.
If you have never replaced a head gasket before the best advice I can give is leave it to a professional, as on modern vehicles there are a number of electrical, emissions, and vacuum connections that can and will cause very serious problems if not disconnected or reconnected properly.
If you feel the need to replace it yourself it's essentially10 steps.
KEEP ALL FASTENERS, AND WIRING HARNESSES ORGANIZED
remove the upper fan shroud
remove the serpentine belt, fan and pulley
loosen and remove the alternator
remove the air cleaner assembly up to the throttle body
remove the upper radiator hose, thermostat, and housing loosen and remove the heater hose
remove all electrical connections from the upper intake, then remove the fuel lines from the lower intake. Good luck with the rear fuel connection as it is snug against the block and the firewall
loosen and remove the heater hose bracket on the intake manifold
remove the intake manifold
remove the remaining bolts from the accessory bracket on the front of the engine and set the A/C compressor and PS pump aside (DO NOT DISCONNECT HOSES)
remove the oil dipstick/filler tube bracket and pull it out
disconnect exhaust manifold from exhaust down pipe
remove exhaust manifold nuts, then remove exhaust manifold
compress and remove rocker arms and push rods (KEEP IN ORDER)
remove head bolts
Remove head without prying between head and block
Send head out for machining or replace with new head