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MY GE Profile Gas Dryer DPSB620GC3WW just hums

My ge Profile Gas Dryer DPSB620GC3WW Seriel # VH812463A just hums when I hit start. What should I do?

Posted by Anonymous on

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4 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 111 Answers

SOURCE: What does display code 1H on GE Profile dryer mean?

It means you have it set for a 1 (one) hour delay start

Posted on Dec 16, 2008

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SOURCE: GE dryer does not run and just hums

Yes, open it. You'll probably find a broken or loose belt.

More help?, let me know.

Posted on May 09, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: I have a GE Profile dryer. The dryer is squeekly

Check the following areas thoroughly to address this issue.


1. Venting
Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.

Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.

2. Thermostat
There are a couple of cycling thermostats inside the dryer. If one of them breaks down, it might affect the dryer's performance. Replace the defective thermostat.

3. Heating element
A heating element might only be partially burned out, in which case it would still work but will take longer time to dry the clothes. Replace the element if found defective.

Concerning the squeaking sounds. this can be caused by a bad drum belt or a leveling issue as well. more issues will be bad drum support rollers or, a failing bearing assembly in the idler pulley. the blower, baffles and guides will deteriorate as well, causing noise overtime. These are most of the uncommon issue that will cause this issue, but the most common issue will be failed idler pulley bearings. The pulley will tend to squeak very loudly if the bearings are worn.

Access to the idler pulley varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports. Reach in to the belt and give it tug. It should be taught and have only a little give. The belt should go under the idler pulley and over the motor pulley. Lift the idler pulley toward the motor to relieve tension on the belt and remove it from the motor pulley.

Turn the idler pulley wheel, it should turn smoothly, quietly and without any wobble. Inspect it for cracks or uneven wear. If the idler pulley does not maintain proper tension or is damaged it should be replaced. Depending upon your model, the entire assembly or just the wheel or bearing may be replaced.

Posted on Jul 30, 2009

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DRYER PROBLEM


If the drum isn't jammed, you have probably lost a belt.

Remove the rear panel of the machine and look for tattered remnants of a black belt.

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