Question about Janome Memory Craft 9000 Computerized Sewing Machine
John Lewis jl Mini (red) Had for a few days worked fine Now bobbin wont catch or move at all
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Use your bobbin winder template to correctly thread the bobbin winder. Take the template out and use your tweezers to thread the end of the thread between the tapered tension plates. Do not pull too tight and leave app. 30mm of thread hanging loose towards the back. Do not thread the "C" at the end of the thread-path. The automatic bobbin winder should now be able to pick up the loose thread. If you manage to do it once correctly, it becomes easier.
Posted on Nov 13, 2007
SOURCE: Bottom thread will not catch
Unplug the machine and remove the needle plate so that the bobbin case if fully exposed. Lift out the bobbin case and the cup that it sets in will be visible. Locate the "hook" on this cup. It is a finger with a sharp point at the upper edge of the cup. The hook is what grabs the thread from the needle while sewing.
If the hook catches the thread from the needle, put everything back together and try threading again.
Posted on Nov 14, 2007
SOURCE: won't stitch properly
ever tried adjusting the thread tension control? clean if possible
tighen it more, loose tension adjustment causes loose stitch and tangling of the thread.
Posted on Nov 01, 2008
SOURCE: bobbin thread not catching
Whenever you see loops on the underside of the fabric something is snagging the thread. the biggest culprit is burrs on the hook. the hook is what goes round and around the bobbin. The reason for burrs on the tip of the hook areseveral
ONE ...is by helping the fabric through as the machine is doing the sewing which directs the needle too close to the hook thus scarring the smooth surface of the hook and potentially breaking it off and the needle too. You must allow the machine do it on its own and only guide the material.
TWO...Sometimes if you are sewing s-t-r-e-t-c-h-y double knit material the material calls for a ball point needle. I have gotten good results with the Singer brand YELLOW BAND needle.
Three ... The hook could have gotten out of timing. What this means is that the hook is not meeting the needle on the top edge of the eye of the needle. You yourself can check this out by removing the bobbin (or shuttle, cassette). Install the needle flat side to flat side of the mounting rod and all the way up. By slowly turning the handwheel on the right slowly and watching that the eye of the needle is just below the hook on the upward swing of the needle and that they both meet dead center. This when you need to take it in to a repairman. FrankIy I don't like to advise this because of unscruppulous practices. My boss used to call me a virgin Mary because I wouldn't ripp-off the customers. Anyway at this time you can also check the condition of the hook carefully looking for nicks and scratches on or around the tip of the hook. If there is damage present you can file this down with a very fine emory board or by using a strip of 400 to 600 grit sandpaper as if your were buffing a shoe. If the hook is removeable by unsnapping the snaps on either side its easier to buff. Anything courser may contibute to the problem. If the paper won't remove the damage you may need a whole new hook. If its not removeable you will have to take it in to have it installed.They have to time it properly.
Four...The two disk that you mentioned also has a spring. That sping is there to pull up those loops. If the disks are full of lint from the thread going through. the clups of lint won't allow the discs to apply tension on the thread and thereby having tightened the tension so much that that spring is not working properly.You can clean the discs by raising the foot which opens the discs. With a long narrow pick pull out all that lint without scatching the discs. Check closely that the the thread goes across the top of the machine down through the discs pull up snug so the spring engages,through the take up arm,in the two thead guides, then into the needle front to back or right to left, if it is a side loading bobbin. Now the tension will work properly!
TESTING : Move the TENSION dial to mid point of the dial usually 5. This is your starting point.
With two layers of fabric ( not stretchy) and with a regular needle, set stitch length at about 12 per inch on the dial. Now sew about six inches. Raise the fabric and look at the results. Do minor adjustments necessary on your tension dial up 6...7.. if loose on the bottom 4...3..2 if loose on top.
If you did all the steps above those are the steps a repairman performs and charges $75 except me I used to charge $10 .
Brother machines are good quality it is those hidden gremlins that make a fun hobby frustrating when you don't have someone to turn to without having to shell out cash! Its been a pleasure!
Posted on Nov 07, 2008
Most likely cause is lint in and around bobbin area.
If you are using a standard top tension of 4 or 5 and this problem has developed over time, the most likely cause is lint deposited between the tension disks....... if the top tension is loose, or in the tension spring of the bobbin case if the bottom tension is having troubles. In either case you need to remove the lint......
Raise the presser foot and with a length of scrap fabric, use an action like flossing your teeth to get between the top tension disks......in extreme cases a probe (old needle) may be used very gently to remove thread and lint, but be VERY careful not to scratch the polished surfaces.
I have also written a tutorial on tension balance which may be of further assistance, particularly for bobbin tension issues:
Please TRY the solution BEFORE giving your considered rating.
Ensure that all is clean and free of lint and jams, this is the most likely cause....now for tension troubleshooting .......
This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
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