Question about GE Dryers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
PSUinNC The first thing you have to do is to check in what position is the temperature switch . If the temperature switch is in the "air fluff" position, then the heater will stay "off". If this is not an issue, reset the circuit breaker. The motor needs only 120V to run, but the heater needs 240V and if one of legs is missing, the dryer would not heat. If it did not solve the problem, you have to perform full diagnosis. You will need some simple hand tools and a meter to check a continuity. If you are fillng you can handle it, let me know and I'll give you the step by step instructions. Gendos...post back
Posted on Feb 26, 2007
SOURCE: How do you replace the
You are in for a big job there. I will try to give you the best step by step possible. First get you a rear bearing part number 131825900. This part retails for $5.96 but you may pay as much as $11.99 This is only for the bearing not the ball that goes on the back of the tub. You will also need some white lithium grease. You will put a small about inside the rear bearing.You may also want to have a second person to help screw the bearing in place.
Step one will be to unplug the machine and pull it out so you will have access to the back. Most of the repair will be done from the front of the machine.
step 2, You will need to pop up the top of the machine. You do this by inserting a flat blade screwdriver into the two clips holding the top down. They are located about two inches from the left and right side front under the top.
Then you will need to remove the front panel and door. You will do this by removing the two screws from the top left and right of the inside of the front panel. the front will then tilt forward from the top and lift off. Use caution because your door swith will still have two wires attached. You can leave these inplace.
next will be to remove the belt from around the tub. To do this reach underneath the tub and remove the belt from the idler pulley and the motor shaft. Remember how you take this off because you will be putting it back shortly. When the belt is loose you will use it to lift the tub upward with a sharp ****. The rear of the tub has a ball and socket joint and the ball must be pulled up and out of the bearing. When the rear of the tub lifts up you will then remove the tub out the front exposing the rear bearing and the heating element. Note, If you damage the heating element while doing this you will need to head back out to the appliance store and buy a new one. You can not take extra slack out of the heater if you have stretched it.
The final step will be replacing the bearing. Use caution so you do not loose the small ball bearing in the rear center of the bearing. You will have two screw to remove and a small metal bracket on the back of the machine. When reinstalling the screws you may need that second person to hold this bracket. Once installed and the small ball bearing is inplace add the grease. Look at the ball on the back of the tub to make sure it is not bad. If it looks ok then just reassemle and start drying. Good luck. MCA0824@aol.com
Posted on Apr 30, 2008
i am sending you all the possibilities for your problem, check either of these causes ----and than let me know if it is solved----
Power from the house
Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.
Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.
On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.)
A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.
Posted on Dec 12, 2008
I assume you fitted the right value capacitor and connected it up correctly,if you have then slip the belt of the motor, and make sure it is free to turn with no resistance.
Try it without the belt on, if it runs o/k then problem is elsewhere, if it still does not run , then you could have faulty motor, and or timer. That is as much as I can help you.
Plz rate my solution.
Posted on Dec 22, 2008
My Hotpoint dryer is seven years old and did the exact same thing. When I got over the anger and the thought of spending 4 or 5 hundred dollars to replace it I started messing with it. I finally decided that since it buzzed when I tried to start it there was current there. The only other thing it could be was the drying cycle knob.
I held the start knob and let it buzz while I slowly turned the dryer cycle knob to the right. As I turned through each cycle it would hit "off" and the buzzing would stop and then resume as I moved past the "off " setting. On the third trip around the dryer "started" and has been working since. Maybe something got out of kilter. Apparently the problem was in the knob that controls the drying cycles.
Posted on Apr 11, 2009
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