Question about Frigidaire 20.6 cu. ft. Top Freezer Refrigerator with Factory Installed Ice Maker

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My freezer seems to be working fine but the FFC is not getting cool (not getting air from the freezer) I took everything out and unplugged it for about 24 hrs. Then i took the back panel of the freezer of and made sure that it was all thawed out. I plugged it back in and everything seemed to be working fine. A few hours later there isn't any cold air coming into the FFC.

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  • calvinmharri May 16, 2010

    I replaced defrost timer and thermostat it is defrosting but still seems to freeze up between cycles. what could cause this?

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  • 4,059 Answers

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.
If you are having a defrost problem --
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance

Posted on May 14, 2010

  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin May 16, 2010

    After the defrost cycle the coils will start to ice over again. The ice is formed when moist air passes over the coils and the moisture is frozen. The amount depends on how often the doors are opened and how well the door gaskets seal and moisture content of things put in the freezer and fridge. It takes about a week to build up enough to start blocking the air flow and affect the cooling. But every 8 hours or so the defrost heater comes on to melt this built up ice.

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I have an Amana (ABB2524DES) bottom freezer fridge. The fridge is not cooling but the freezer seems fine. I just took the back cover off and the fan is working. I cleaned everything and put it back...


Its defrost problem, the freezer should cool, then freeze, then defrost cycle should start. In your case freezer is cooling, then freezing, but its not defrosting. That's why fridge section is not cooling.-------

Click this link below and follow the troubleshooting:----

http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/06/refrigerator-is-not-cooling-properly.html

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This will help.Thanks.Helpmech/.

Oct 30, 2011 | Amana ABB2524DE Bottom Freezer...

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Freezer is cold, but fridge isn't cooling, cleaned the coils underneath and the port between the freezer and fridge is clear of ice


Hello,

All of the cooling in refrigerators is normally done in the freezer compartment. A fan circulates cold air from the freezer into the refrigerator compartment to cool it. Most likely this fan has quit working.
Also note that,

If you have a Freezer on the top model Kenmore, with warm temps in the fridge, AND water dripping onto the top shelf of the lower fresh food compartment (FFC), this is usually caused by a clogged defrost drain. Since Kenmore is not an actual manufacturer of anything, they take other brands, i.e. Kitchenaid, GE, Frigidaire, etc., take their names off and put on a shiny Kenmore nametag. This is a common problem with Kitchenaid refrigerators. You can determine if your Kenmore is made by kitchenaid by looking at the model # tag. the first three digits will indicate the manufacturer, Kitchenaids begin with the sequence, 106.*.If this is indeed how your model # begins, keep reading. Since the water cant go down the drain tubing to the pan at the bottom of the unit, it builds up on the freezer floor, eventually blocking the air return vents from the fridge to the freezer, and the vent from the freezer to the fridge. YOu can check this very easily. Look at the ceiling of your FFC, near the back. toward the sides you will see two square holes, about 2" square, stick your finger and feel around the inside of those holes, do you feel any ice/frost, or do you just feel styrofoam, you might even see frost/ice below the level of your ceiling? This drain usually gets clogged with defrost water that does not completely drain, then of course it freezes, eventually plugging up the drian hole located at the level of your freezer floor, behind the back wall. The water keeps accumulating, and freezing, on the freezer floor, eventually filling in and clogging the air vents..no air flow , the fridge wont cool. The easiest way to resolve this, empty out all contents and store someplace cold for 24 hours...a 2nd fridge, outside in a cooler if its cold like here in chicago. After its empty, unplug, open both doors and blow a fan for 24 hours. Prepare for an abundance of water due to melting ice.
After you defrost, you can plug it back in and it will be fine, HOWEVER, I suggest you take the back freezer wall off, you might have to take a floor cover off first, likely 2-4 screws in both the floor and the back wall. When you have the evaporator exposed, you will see a black cal rod defrost heater underneath the evaporator, as well as your drain hole just to the right of center underneath both heater and evaporator. Take a piece of 12-14 gauge solid, not stranded wire, removing the insulation and exposing the entire 6-8" piece of copper wire. wrap the wire around the diameter of the cal rod heater, 3-4 turns should be sufficient, and stick the other end of the wire down that drain hole. This will melt any ice that will build up in the future, everytime your unit goes into defrost cycle, so this wont happen again.

If air vents are clear of frost/ice, next thing to check is the back wall of your freezer, does there appear to be frost/ice/snow on the back wall? If so, your unit is not defrosting. mostly, this is usually caused by your defrost timer, located in the canopy mounted at the top of the FFC on Top freezer models, or your defrost thermostat, which is clipped onto the evaporator coil inside your freezer. Again, if its a 106 model Kenmore, this thermostat will have a pink and a brown wire coming into/out of it. My suggestion, if it isnt defrosting, change both. tjhe defrost control will connect with a plug, but you will have to hard wire the thermostat, ( cut wires from old, strip wire, and connect using wire nuts and electrical tape.)

Since the unit is a side by side model, check for ice on freezer floor...clogged drain. Check again for frost/ice on back wall, not defrosting, check same two parts, (the heaters rarely go bad on Kitchenaids, but never say never) You should also check for air flow into fridge, even if no frost / ice visible on back wall. Open the FFC door, and locate the air vent near the top, back of the fridge, on the left wall. While depressing the door switch, AND WITH THE FREEZER door closed, put your finger/hand near that vent. Do you feel any cold air? If you dont, you could have a bad door damper, not uncommon, or a bad damper control--> the temperature control WITHOUT the off or "0" position.

If any of this seems a bit overwhelming, I suggest you have a reputable repair technician check your fridge.

Oh, and lastly, you WILL NOT have two compressors, one for each compartment, nor will you have two sets of defrost heating elements, one for each half.
ALL cooling for 99% of refrigerators made in last 25 years takes place in the freezer, with the fridge being an empty box, except for an air intake vent, and an air exhaust vent which leads directly back into the freezer. When a refrigerator unit seems to still be cold in the freezer, but not cold enough or not cold at all in the FFC, its ALWAYS going to be caused by lack of air flow. But as you can see, there are a few things that can cause that lack of air flow.Hope this helpout , Good luck

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1 Answer

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Thanks for your inquiry. I think I may have fixed it. I unpluged it and took everything out of the refrigerator and freezer, cleaned it thoroughly inside and out and unscrewed the back wall inside the freezer. There was a huge ice buildup on the coils so I let it sit for 12 hours like a defrost. I turned it back on and it seems to be working fine. It is not running constantly and is maintaining about 5 degrees below. If this doesn't stay working, I guess I have to call a repairman.

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1 Answer

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Check the evaporator fan , freezer must have a fan to avoid ice formation, if evaporator does not work, thermic sensor jams up and freezer stop working. The fan is located behind the panel in the freezer.

Check the back of your freezer, If there is frost or ice, then the unit is not defrosting.
This is often caused by problems with evaporator system.
Sometimes you also need to check the defrost timer, located at the top of the FFC on the Top freezer.
Check also the defrost thermostat, which is on the evaporator inside the freezer.
If it isnt defrosting, change both.

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YES , you need to replace the thermostat timer,its a device that operates like every 30 min or so applying heat thru a black element to keep the freezer from not building up ice . hope this helps AJ

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1 Answer

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Did you ever get your fridge fixed? I have the exact same fridge and the exact same problem.

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