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Dryer runs then shuts down wont start up for an hour:
Bad motor windings OR
A defective heating element can make a dryer too hot. If the element partially shorts out, it can produce heat all the time, regardless of whether the dryer is calling for heat. Remove the heating element to inspect it. The coils should not be touching each other or anything else.
Other Causes and Conditions
Air Flow Problem
Dryers need good ventilation to work properly. If the vent is clogged it can make the dryer too hot. Clean all of the vent tubing thoroughly.
Although not common, a defective cycling thermostat can make the dryer too hot. The cycling thermostat is supposed to turn on and off the heat to maintain the proper temperature. If the thermostat is defective it may keep the heat on too long. The thermostat is not adjustable or repairable, it must be replaced.
Most dryers have a felt seal at the front and rear of the drum to keep the heat inside the drum. If the felt seal is worn away or missing, the dryer may keep heating and make the dryer too hot. This is not common.
A defective blower wheel will not spin properly and will not vent the hot air, making the dryer too hot. Check to see if there is adequate airflow out of the dryer.
try the homes 240volt circuit breaker it may not show its tripped but one of the 2 phases can trip out, (just reset the breaker) and if this happens either the dryer drum motor will turn or the timer will run, but not both as these 2 components each use 1 of the 2 phases 120 volts to run,but the heating element needs both 120volt phases for 240volts for the heating element to heat,this is what your issue sounds like to me,hope this helps
Ain't no moisture sensor. This is is not an electronic sensing machine. It uses another method to determine dryness. An orange wire connects to the base of the heating element. The timer motor is driven by power from it in auto dry. The timer motor is VERY slow. Slower than most dryer timer motors.As the clothes get dryer the heat is not needed so the element is turned off by the control thermostat which is mounted next to the skinny white fuse on the blower housing. This allows for the turtle like motor on the timer to advance. Once the clothes get to the point of dryness the heater stays off way longer and the timer motor advances on over to the cool down and carry on over to the end of cycle. So the clothes won't always be dry due to factors like lint buildup in the blower housing, venting to outside and so forth. having said that my mom bought a brand new Kenmore dryer and I set it on 55 minutes timed drying. At the end of that them clothes is still damp. I then set it to auto dry high heat and that usually gets em dry. I think the main probo with this dryer is the thermostat ain't set as high as older models to keep the heat at a moderate temp so that the limits won't blow on models in apts and such. Just a theory.
Hi, This is what is probably going on. There are two parts in the motor that cause the drum to rotate. One
of them is "start" winding. It literally starts the drum's rotation.
Once the drum motor has started the drum to move. The second portion of
the motor, known as the "run" winding takes over and keeps the drum
turning. When the Drum winding burns out. The same symptom is caused
when the switch attached to the motor is also damaged. In your case,
although this is rare. I think it may be the switch. The reason
being is that the motor has a combination switch that also connects one
side to the heating element. In a nutshell, If you get the dryer not
continuing to turn AND the heating element stays on. There is a problem
with the switch. If you get the heating element going on when you
push the start button but turns off when you release the button. The
problem is the motor having a burned out run winding. Either way, it is
less labor intensive to replace the motor when you take it out. Doing
it switch is not easy. Hope this helps. If not write back to me and we
can continue. HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR Best, Mark
you have probably lost one leg of your power supply feed 120volts+120volts=240volts,your motor will operate on 120volts, but the element won't,also if you have 240volts the neutral wire to the element can burn off w/heat and age
So,. basically your drum doesnt turn. SO your getting heat still even though the drum isnt turning. Is this right? Sounds strange??? Do you hear any humming noise when you push the start button? I need to know a little more about the problem because im kinda confused as how you decribed the problem. Iv never seen a dryer heat but the drum not spinning. especially your model dryer. Its electric heat right? because if the drum doesnt spin, maybe your motor is bad. and if your motor is bad, then your heating element wont heat up because the centrifical switch in the motor is not switching to complete the circuit to the heating element. So this is why im confused when you said" Dryer heats when knob turned but when "push button" pressed, drum doesnt run." Because your belt wraps around the motor pully and the motor is what makes the drum turn. Like i said, i never seen this model dryer heat with out the motor operating. So if you can give me some more info, ill do my best to help you out....Thanks!!!!
if coils is heating are you sure motor isn't running or just the drum not turning ? if drum not turning suspect belt ..if motor not running but element still heating suspect element is contacting outer case ..with coil touching case 110 volts is present even without motor turning if timer is turned to heat position element will not heat to capacity but will get hot enough to eventually blow element fuse
check the continuity on the thermal fuse located on the back wall small white thermostat perhaps 1.5 inches by 1/2 inch, and if no tcheck the thermo on to p and next to hte heater hte should all have continuity. if not replace them as ness.