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Pulse ignition wiring

I took the front panel off of the unit and the pulse ignitor has 4 wires coming out of it. 3 wires are the same and are hooked up to the 3 different ceramic sparkers( don't know the name ) and then ther's a 4th wire which is skinier and about 6-7 inches long. The question--where the heck does the 4 wire get connected to, I don't see anything that looks like it should be connected to it

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  • 32 Answers

Could it be a ground wire come lose?

Posted on Apr 06, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

Ouku single din no sound from rca cables


Sorry I did not use the video out RCA cables. My audio RCA cables worked fine... I ran them to my JBL amplifier through a conversion adapter. I did not run it direct to the amp.. I used Metra TYTO-01 03-08 Toyota Vehicles Harness for JBL SYS (Ebay item 160560648718) and it worked great.

Here is the wiring color coding that I found online:

Code on stereo for steering wheel is 0000
2011 Toyota Camry Car Audio Installation Diagram
F6 Pins:
1.Light Green (LG) Front Right (FR) plus (+) speakers source
2.Pink (P) Front Left (FL) plus (+) speakers
3.Grey (GR) Accessory power [switched on with the ignition switch] +12v
4.Light Blue with Yellow Stripe (L-Y) always +12v [radio memory]
5.Light Blue (L) Front Right (FR) minus (-) speakers return
6.Violet (V) Front Left (FR) minus (-) speakers return
7.Brown (BR) Ground (GND) radio ground
8.Orange (O) Antenna Amplifier (ANT) power source
9. No Connection
10.Green (G) Night Lighting [+12 when the taillights are turned on]
F7 Pins:
1.Red (R) Rear Right (RR) plus (+) speakers source
2.Black (B) Rear Left (RL) plus (+) speakers source
3.White (W) Rear Right (RR) minus (-) speakers return
4.No Connection
5.White Black (W-B) Lighting Intensity [Pull down circuit, voltage level drops {Bright Dash Lights}or raises {dim Dash Lights} Caution with this one, DO NOT CONNECT DIRECTLY TO +12 VOLTS, you will mess up your instrument panel cluster.
6.Yellow (Y) Rear Left (RL) minus (-) speakers return
F8 Pins:
1.No Connection
2.No Connection
3.Violet (V) Speed Pulse Connection (SPD) [Pulses from the speed sensors applied here. This is for the automatic sound level system. The volume raises when the speed is above a specified level, if enabled.]
4.No Connection
5.No Connection
6.Pink (P) Steering Wheel (Switch) Ground (SWG)[common]
7.Orange (O) Steering Wheel (Switch Group) one (SW1) [source for Seek+, Seek-, Volume+, & Volume-]
8.Yellow (Y) Steering Wheel (Switch Group) two (SW2) [source for Mode, (if equipped On Hook, Off Hook & Voice)
9.No Connection
10.No Connection
11.No Connection
12.No Connection
13.No Connection
14.No Connection
15.Orange (O) Auxiliary Right Input (ARI)
16.Brown (BR ) Auxiliary Shield Ground (ASGN)
17.Red (R) Auxiliary Left Input (ALI)
18.No Connection
19.Green (G) Auxiliary Input [Sense](AUXI)
20.No Connection
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Car Radio Battery Constant 12V+ Wire: Blue/Yellow
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12V+ Wire: Gray
Car Radio Ground Wire: Brown
Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A
Car Radio Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Radio Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Tweeter Size: 3 1/2? Tweeters
Car Audio Front Tweeter Depth: 2?
Car Audio Front Tweeter Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Violet
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Blue
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Black
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Red
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): White

Apr 02, 2014 | Crown Ouku 7" Car Dvd Player

1 Answer

The gas in the oven goes on then off


follow this instruction. God bless you
    • 1
      Unplug your unit and turn off the gas supply at the saddle valve near the unit.

    • 2
      Lift up the hood of the oven. If you have sealed burners, the lid will not lift up. Locate the ignitors near the burners of the unit. Clean any gunk away from the ignitor using a toothbrush. Test the unit.


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    • 3
      Pull the burner dials off the front of the unit if the ignitors won't work.

    • 4
      Remove the screws at the ends of the front cover, where the gas supply knobs are located, using a screwdriver, and remove the cover from the oven.

    • 5
      Slide the wires off the burner valve switches and pull them off the burner valve by sliding the switch forward. The switch will have wires attached to it. Loosen the screws holding down the wires of the burner valve. Pull out the wires carefully. Place the wires in a new switch. Slide the new switch onto the burner valve. Replace the knob, and turn on the gas supply and power. Ignite the burner.

    • 6
      Follow the switch wires into the oven if the new switch doesn't work. Locate the module box, which is usually 2 inches by 3 inches. Slide the wires out of the module terminal by pulling on the wire connectors. Remove the screws from the old module and pull the module out. Insert the wires into the new module, using the same wire orientation as before. Reassemble the oven. Turn on the electricity and gas, and turn on the burner.


Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_7925141_repair-electronic-ignition-gas-stove.html#ixzz2ZPuc5nad

Jul 18, 2013 | Ovens

1 Answer

JDS9860AAP Front e-burner does not light.


follow this instructions. God bless you
    • 1
      Unplug your unit and turn off the gas supply at the saddle valve near the unit.

    • 2
      Lift up the hood of the oven. If you have sealed burners, the lid will not lift up. Locate the ignitors near the burners of the unit. Clean any gunk away from the ignitor using a toothbrush. Test the unit.


    • Sponsored Links

    • 3
      Pull the burner dials off the front of the unit if the ignitors won't work.

    • 4
      Remove the screws at the ends of the front cover, where the gas supply knobs are located, using a screwdriver, and remove the cover from the oven.

    • 5
      Slide the wires off the burner valve switches and pull them off the burner valve by sliding the switch forward. The switch will have wires attached to it. Loosen the screws holding down the wires of the burner valve. Pull out the wires carefully. Place the wires in a new switch. Slide the new switch onto the burner valve. Replace the knob, and turn on the gas supply and power. Ignite the burner.

    • 6
      Follow the switch wires into the oven if the new switch doesn't work. Locate the module box, which is usually 2 inches by 3 inches. Slide the wires out of the module terminal by pulling on the wire connectors. Remove the screws from the old module and pull the module out. Insert the wires into the new module, using the same wire orientation as before. Reassemble the oven. Turn on the electricity and gas, and turn on the burner.


Read more: http://www.ehow.com/how_7925141_repair-electronic-ignition-gas-stove.html#ixzz2ZPuc5nad

Jul 18, 2013 | Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

How to replace igniter on kenmore gas dryer


by the number you provided its made for kenmore by whirlpool,you need to take a thin putty knife and at the top of the front cover slip the putty knife in at about 4 inches from each side and pop the top cover up,then raise cover and support in the upward position so as not to break the wires from the control panel,then inside at the 2 top corners of the front panel there will be 2 screws( 3/8") remove these and tilt front cover outward,then unplug door wire harness and set front cover aside,from there you can access the ignitor from there below the drum,use a 1/4" nut driver to loosen the screw that secures the ignitor and unplug the 2 white colored wires at the plug connected to the ignitor,then replace the ignitor(its a flat style ignitor on these units) also be careful to NOT touch the new ignitors carborundum tip as doing so will make it burn out soon due to the oil on your fingers,only hold it at the porcelin body part,then reverse dis-assembly to put unit back together

Feb 07, 2012 | Kenmore Dryers

2 Answers

What causes gas igniter to keep clicking when gas is off


Just solved this on the Kenmore model 911.33389 (same unit). Ignitors started with no one touching the cooktop. It has had a history of doing this and, this time, sparks were visible under the knob. Disassembled cooktop (don't forget to unplug and shut off the gas!). Performed "smell test" for burned electronics. Found smell in #3 ignitor switch. Disassembled and found worn, burned, and fried. Parts list was inside unit but had a typo for the "ignitor switch". Showed WB18T10240. Ordered that only to discover it was the transformer to ignitor wire harness set (no photo on website!). Wrong part... ugh! Dug deeper for the correct part #. It was WB18T10239 but it has been replaced with WB18T10344. Noted on some website that someone installed one and then the ignitor was NOT synchronized. Turns out, you can install WB18T10344 about three different ways. Mine was 22 degrees off vertical (different than original) and now my unit works perfectly! Also, install the new switch harness (if that's what you do) starting from the left front valve then clockwise. The original unit installed from the right front valve, then clockwise. Hope this helps.

Jun 20, 2010 | GE Profile JGP636 Gas Cooktop

1 Answer

Firing Order diagram for 2006 Ford Explorer


Hope this helps. The ignition coil:
  • changes low-voltage pulses from the PCM to high-voltage pulses.
  • fires 2 spark plugs simultaneously.
  • has 3 transformers.
    • One transformer fires the spark plugs for cylinders 1 and 5
    • One transformer fires the spark plugs for cylinders 2 and 6
    • One transformer fires the spark plugs for cylinders 3 and 4
Spark plug wires:
  • carry high-voltage pulses from the ignition coil to the spark plugs.
The spark plugs:
  • change high-voltage pulses to spark at the gap, which ignites the fuel and air mixture.
The firing order is 1-4-2-5-3-6.

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Jun 06, 2010 | 2006 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

Left side two burns do not ignite


Check the ignitor unit, If the other side works, maybe a wire has come off the ignitor feeding the left side.

Sep 03, 2009 | Thermador Pro Harmony PRG304EH (Gas)...

1 Answer

Can't get any spark on rear left ignition coil


I didn't notice the year of the bike but
the orange wire comes directly from your TCI ignitor unit.
It might be a faulty pickup coil or the ignitor unit itself.
the pickup coils are in the right engine case and
have about 110 ohms resistance.
If there is no ohms reading on the pickup coil then
it is faulty.
If the pickup pulse coils are good then your
main ignitor unit is probably faulty.
Sometimes the solder joints can crack in them.

Aug 22, 2009 | Yamaha Royal Star Venture Motorcycles

1 Answer

Burner will not ignite


Hi, Before you check the ignitor. when you start the dryer, do you hear a loud click? If you do,it is the ignitor trying to start. Remove the little cap/cover located on the lower left side on the front panel. You should see the ignitor glow red. If it does'n't glow, remove the back cover abd test the thermofuse. It is located on the blower housing and it's white, 1/4" wide, & 3" long. It has two wired going to it.
If the fuse tests ok, you will need to remove the front panel. Locate two screws under lint screen. Remove them and then use a flat blade screw driver and pop the top. Insert the screw driver into the gap between the top and the front panle and pry upward.. Locate the screws inside the front panel uper corners. Remove those and the front panel will come off by lifting it.
Now you can see the burner assembly. The drum will need to be removed in order to test the ignitor. (NOTE: be sure to se how the belt threads through the pulleys)
If the ignitor gets 120V to it and does not light, it is bad.
I know this is a lot of information. I hope it helps you.
Please let me know

Thanks
Vic

May 20, 2009 | Roper RGX4634KQ Gas Dryer

18 Answers

GE XL44 gas oven


Starfish, remove the oven racks, in back there will be two chrome screws, remove them. Lift the lower oven panel out by pulling up from the rear. Remove the screws holding the flame spreader and remove the flame spreader. Now you will see the burner and igniter attached to it. There are 2 quarter inch hex screws holding the ignitor on. GE likes to put them on an angle where you cant get at them. If you have trouble you can remove the bottom drawer and remove the screws securing the burner to the back wall. There should be one in the front too. The burner will now lift up and you can get at the screws. The new ignitor should come with ceramic wire nuts. Just cut the old igniter, strip the ends of the wires going to it and wire nut the new one on. Reverse the rest of the steps. Here's a little trouble shooting schem. Catriver...post back.

Jan 18, 2007 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

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