Question about Parmak Solar Fence Charger

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Need battery Unit is 6-7 years old. Cleaned entire fence line and set up fence the same as in the past. Unit shows in the red. It is located app miles from my home and I havent checked it since it has been set up. Maybe it was not out long enough to fully charge. I still would like to Know where to get a battery for it. Thanks very good dependable Unit. Ron

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We have one of these, it's great.

See these links:

I would try removing the battery and charging it with a proper low-amperage charger (1 amp). Your battery will either be 6 volt or 12 volt, just be sure the charger matches.

Also check the ground rod and all wiring connections.

Posted on May 13, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My chain link fence is rusted in a few different areas. Should I replace the entire fence, or is there a way to fix it?

Hi Jessica:
Surface rust should have no effect on the structural integrity of the fence, and a totally acceptable cosmetic fix should be able to be obtained using galvanize paint.
Notice I said COSMETIC fix. If the fence is no longer structurally sound, it may be time for some major repairs or replacement.

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Troubleshooting back-up malfunction after replacing battery. Checked main power supply breaker and battery power supply fuses for continuity. What should I try next?

Depending on the type of unit, you do not state any model. It may require 6-8 hours of being plugged in and turned off before the battery has enough charge that the ups will turn on.

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Hi, I have a 25 mile range Parmak solar pak 6 fence charger. When I test the lines it reads .02 and I noticed that the energizer unit itself is energized. I tested the unit and it reads between 3.8 to 4.6....

Any point you measure has to be compared to a reference. This can not be accomplished by just touching one must be compared to something. Do I make sense the way I explain this?
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Dec 30, 2013 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer


Hi rjames16,

Are you wanting to square the blade to the rip fence, to the miter fence or does the blade show runout?

To square the rip fence to the blade, lay a combination square or engineer's square along the blade with the short leg against the closest end of the fence and even with the near end of the blade. Slide the square along the blade so that the short leg is even with the far end of the blade. Loosen the lock knob and move the far end of the fence until it touches the leg of the square. Tighten the lock knob. Recheck and adjust the fence until it is perfectly square to the blade.

Adjust the miter fence to the blade in a similar fashion except that the short leg of the square will lay against the miter fence. Adjust until the long leg is aligned with the blade. The instructions for these adjustments are in the owner's manual.
You can download a copy at this website:

Copy and paste this entire address into your browser and a page will open with 2 Adobe documents. One is for the owner's manual, the other for the parts breakdown.

If you have blade runout, remove it from the saw and lay it flat. Check for warping and if warped, replace it.

Hope this helps. If it does, I'd appreciate your vote. Thanks,

Handie Andie

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1 Answer

My monarch ESC16 had both red lights on today. salt

If you are sure it was cleaned correctly, it most likely will be a failed cell. Warranty thru this company has become very difficult in the past few years as the company had a falling out with its US counterpart. Good Luck.

Feb 14, 2010 | Hayward In Line Chlorinator 9 Lb. Capacity...

1 Answer

I have just purchased a Delta Rockwell Industrial Table Saw. It is a 1.5 HP, 3 BELT, 3 PHASE UNIT. How should I clean and lubricate the parts. I also bought 22OV 5 HP motor to put in it because I only have...

The table can be cleaned and waxed with a good quality paste wax like Trewax clear. If it has rust, you can use automative polish/cleaner and a rag or fine scotch pads to get the rust out, then wax the surface to protect it. Period waxing will maintain a low friction surface through use. Old timers used to recommend rubbing the bare steel table with talc to seal the pores, but I find was is more readily available and gives a better surface for use...Wax is also good on the moving parts of the fence.
The worm gears and trunnions can be cleaned with compressed air and regular 30w motor oil in a pump can. Maybe a soft wire brush or toothbrush if needed to remove built up resin and pitch. If there's a really heavy build up on the gears, get some OxiSolve bit and blade cleaner from Woodworker's supply and it will safely dissolve the gunk to a consistency you can scrub off with a toothbrush. I maintain these moving mechanical parts with oil, which an old pro recommended years ago, and have found it doesn't contribute to sawdust build up as you think it might, not nearly so much as an assembly lube or white grease, and makes raising and lower the blade a joy. If you're concerned about dryness, you can try triflow or some kind of bicycle chain lube, but I've decided the expense isn't worth the results, and oil is readily available when I need it...
If replacement parts are available for your model, try here. Otherwise, and for older machines, you might find a manual or parts info at this site.
After market fences are available for your saw, and depend on user preference. I've been very happy with my Biesemeyer fence, after using it (and many others) for 22 years. It is also heavy duty.

Jul 18, 2009 | Delta Woodworking Delta Rockwell 14 Inch...

3 Answers

No shock from charger

did you make sure the fence isn't grounded or an insulator hasn't melted

Apr 12, 2009 | Parmak Solar Fence Charger

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