Question about U-Line 15WC Wine Cooler
HOW CAN I GET IT OUT FROM UNDER THE COUNTER TO CHECK the fuse or electrical connectors
HI. There are only two reasons for this issue. The first will be a failed start relay. The start relay is basically a switch that is mounted at the compressor assembly. Once energized by the PCB, it activates the compressor motor. The PCB Is linked to the temperature control device, which in also linked to a temp sensor. These corresponding parts work together to provide proper cooling. A failed start relay switch will induce the symptoms you are experiencing at this time. The next area of concern will be the actual PCB. This is the principal control board. This board coordinates all power and control during a normal operating cycle. If it fails, the compressor start relay can not function properly, and the unit will not cool at all.
The areas stated above should be inspected for visual burn markings at there respective locations. The start relay can be tested for proper functions with a multimeter. You can visually inspect the man PCB for discolorations around the mounted caps and relay blocks.
I suspect a failed main PCB. You will need to gain access from the rear of the unit. this is where the PCB and compressor assembly will be located. there may be a concealment panel to remove, prior to gaining full access.
Posted on May 16, 2010
I don't know your situation so I really don't know what's keeping you from just sliding it out. Possibly with someones help you can put an appliance dolly under the front and tip it up and roll it out or place carpet or towels under it and slide it out. The first thing to check would be the starter/overload relay which starts the compressor. It should click each time the compressor tries to start. If it is bad it may rattle when you shake it or it may appear burnt.
Posted on May 16, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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