Question about U-Line 15WC Wine Cooler

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THE COMPRESSOR DOES NOT TURNN ON

HOW CAN I GET IT OUT FROM UNDER THE COUNTER TO CHECK the fuse or electrical connectors

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  • Knut Spanberg May 16, 2010

    My ULN 15Wcss 00 does not cool. the light is brning in the cooler. What would cause the compressor not to come on?

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2 Answers

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HI. There are only two reasons for this issue. The first will be a failed start relay. The start relay is basically a switch that is mounted at the compressor assembly. Once energized by the PCB, it activates the compressor motor. The PCB Is linked to the temperature control device, which in also linked to a temp sensor. These corresponding parts work together to provide proper cooling. A failed start relay switch will induce the symptoms you are experiencing at this time. The next area of concern will be the actual PCB. This is the principal control board. This board coordinates all power and control during a normal operating cycle. If it fails, the compressor start relay can not function properly, and the unit will not cool at all.

The areas stated above should be inspected for visual burn markings at there respective locations. The start relay can be tested for proper functions with a multimeter. You can visually inspect the man PCB for discolorations around the mounted caps and relay blocks.

I suspect a failed main PCB. You will need to gain access from the rear of the unit. this is where the PCB and compressor assembly will be located. there may be a concealment panel to remove, prior to gaining full access.

Posted on May 16, 2010

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  • Master
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I don't know your situation so I really don't know what's keeping you from just sliding it out. Possibly with someones help you can put an appliance dolly under the front and tip it up and roll it out or place carpet or towels under it and slide it out. The first thing to check would be the starter/overload relay which starts the compressor. It should click each time the compressor tries to start. If it is bad it may rattle when you shake it or it may appear burnt.

Posted on May 16, 2010

  • Charles T Nevin
    Charles T Nevin May 17, 2010

    The compressor wont come on if it has a bad starter relay or if the compressor is worn out or low on freon. If the starter is good a tech will have to check out the compressor.

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1 Answer

My ELC compressor do not come on buick


When you turn the key on, after a couple of seconds the system should cycle the compressor on for a couple seconds at least. If not, you'll need to troubleshoot if it is an electrical problem (fuse, relay, height switch/sensor, wiring in between components/bad connections) or a mechanical problem (compressor, hoses, bladder on air shocks leaking air).

There is a fuse & a relay for the Electronic Level Control/ELC also called Automatic Level Control/ALC under the back seat in the power distribution block/fuse. Switch out a relay with a similar one and check the fuse for a burnt center section.

There is a ride height sensor attached to one of the rear control arms. With the vehicle safely raised and supported, disconnect the 'link' from the sensor to the suspension arm. With the key ON and engine NOT running, push the arm on the ride height to the compressed/riding low setting. After about 15-30 seconds (it is slow to respond or it would kick on and off over every bump) the compressor should turn on and begin filling the air bladders on the rear shocks.

If the compressor still fails to come on, you'll need to unhook the harness connector at the compressor. Again, with the key ON, engine OFF, height sensor compressed connect a voltmeter to the Dark Green wire on the chassis side of the harness connector (there are four wires to the compressor. 2 wires are for the electric motor to raise the car, and 2 wires are for the Vent solenoid the releases air pressure lowers the car) and ground to see if the compressor is being told to turn on by the height sensor. If it is being commanded on and supplied electricity, and still doesn't make noise or pressure, then replace it off a similar year GM vehicle that has rear air suspension (Cadillacs, Buicks, Oldsmobile Auroras). As long as the compressors are the same, you can just remount it in your car's mounting bracket assembly and save some $$.

If the compressor comes on but the car won't rise, check the air lines to each shock from the compressor, the bladders on the shocks themselves, the filter on the compressor intake or even the vent solenoid assembly on the compressor unit has been known to leak/corrode/stick.

Good luck.

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1 Answer

New compresser just stopped working was very cold ran it all day and now the compressor is not kicking in and out how can you tell if it is a relay or loss of carge


FIrst, with any electrical problem, always check the fuses first. The only way to correctly check the charge of the AC system is with a set of guages. You can assume the charge is good and procede with the electrical diagnosis, but it may all be a waste of time if the system has lost the charge. With the AC on, if there is a proper charge in the system, there should be 12v at the compressor clutch connector. This will be a 2 wire connector just behind the AC pulley. You will need a 12v test light, meter, or some way to check for voltage. If there is 12v and the compressor is not engaged, then the clutch coil has gone bad. If there is not 12v then you will need to check the relay for voltage. Sometimes you can swap relays with another that has the same part number. If the original relay is bad then the compressor will start working after the swap. Check all the fuses, under the hood and under the dash. Sometimes a fuse will control more than one circuit.

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1 Answer

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did the electrical connector get knocked off a the AC compressor on the engine?, check that and let me know.

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1 Answer

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The pressure may have knocked the electrical connector on the fan motor. Re-seat it.
I doubt that the motor is burned-out.

If that doesn't work,
Disconnect fan motor connector and turn ON engine & A/C compressor.
Check for 12 volts at the fan motor connector. If it's there, the motor is burned-out. If no voltage at the connector, then replace the "cooling fan" relay in the fuse box under the hood.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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when a fuse blows like that it means the circuit is drawing too much amprage. usually this is caused by a bad electrical connector or ground. look at the 2 wires going into the compressor fing the connector and look for discoloration or cracking of the insulation. unplugg it and look inside both ends for corrosion or discoloration of the connector inside the plastic. locate the ground for the compressor also check that for corrosion and discoloration /cracking of insulation. also locate the relay check those connections for same replace the relay while your there the'r cheap. check any other connections in the circuit between the fuse block and the ground for that circuit. find a wiring diagram for it. they are verry helpful,saves alot of chasing wires cause there usually bundled up in a wiring harness also they show you where all the connectors are.

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1 Answer

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If you have no power (12v) to the power wire at the A/C compressor clutch and have jumpered all of the switches then you need to check for power coming out of the A/C switch on the dash. Also there might be a pressure switch on the back of the compressor that you can jumper also. You can also check A/C compressor relay in the under hood fuse/relay box. There might be a fuse in the under hood fuse/relay box for the A/C too. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

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When you are disconnecting the low pressure switch, or high pressure switch, you are stopping the power going to the A/C clutch. So, that means that your A/C clutch is shorted out. Unplug the compressor, and see if the fuse blows.If it doesn't you need a new clutch or compressor.

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1 Answer

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