I use a Juki DDL-8700 for hemming jeans. When I get to the inseam where the material is super thick, the needle often breaks, bends or the thread breaks. What should I do so this doesn't happen? Thanks.
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Re: problems when sewing over heavy jean hems
Are you using the correct type of needle? have a word with your needle supplier and explain the problem. Different threads and different thickness material need different top and bottom tension adjustments.
Can I suggest sew one thickness material at a time with tension adjustments for that thickness. Then change the tensions and do a batch of thicker material.
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regarding your inquiry about JUKI machine model DDL-8700 , first your machine type was what ? DDL-8700/SS ( for light to medium material , DDL-8700/HS ( for jeans and can use to sew light to medium lather, type of needle is DBx1, size for lather was 18 and you can use thread number #30 and #20. one more thing you want to change your presser foot to teflon presser foot ( please see attached photo for that presser foot you want to buy.
if need more information please ask
thanks and best regards
CAIRO - EGYPT
You need a couple of things. One is to flatten the seams before you try to sew them. One of the best is to spread the hems on a wooden cutting board or simiilar smooth surface and beat the hems flat with a flat faced hammer. This is an official sewing hammer: http://www.fashion-incubator.com/archive/tools_and_supplies/ and it will compress the fabric so it doesn't lift your presser foot up and let the tension off the top thread (which is what's causing your looping problem).
Alternatively, you can do the jeans hem alteration that pros will charge you more for (because it's "fashionable"), and it's also faster and easier. Often called Euro-hemming: http://www.sewmuchado.com/2011/06/tutorial-how-to-hem-jeans-and-keep-the-original-hem.html
Things to think about are whether or not you want a walking foot machine. Then if you do, decide if you want a needle feed walking foot. (the needle moves in an ovoid fashion, to help pull the material through the feed area.
Juki is a wonderful manufacturer but there are quality machines out there that are just as nice. Check out leathermachineco.com and look at their cobra 18 or cobra 17. Call Steve and talk to him about what you are looking for. (great service)
Sounds a bit serious, jeans fabric is dense and thick. Many machines struggle especially sewing hem over side seam with 6+ layers. You need jeans needle size 90, 100 or 110. Maybe take in for a service as the needle assembly could be out if time too
If you think its the way the material is being moved, I would check the pressure on the presser foot. On my machine, there a knob with 1,2,3 to adjust, its vertically above the foot on the top of the machine(Check you manual). Sometimes the jeans hem is just too thick on the side seam. I just skip that part, or move the needle through that part by using my hand on the wheel, so the stitsches look ok, but it should do the rest of the hem fine. Try the thinnest part of the hem first; good luck
I would use a denim needle, these are blue coated to slide through the fibres, usually in size 100. But the looping is more about the weight of the seam, ie thickness. Also aremyou trying to use thick yellow jeans thread on the outside and normal thread inside? This is difficult to achieve as the thick yellow thread wont go through needle, you need to use it on the bobbin and sew right side down. I have never had much success with jeans hems on my Japanese machine and usually end up using my industrial Singer to do it. You can try usinf a seam jumper Sometimes called a jeans-a-ma-jig, this helps give leaverage to the feed dogs as you approach the side seams. Also, belt the seams flat with a hammer first.