The LCD display lights up, can have its backlighting adjusted, and the unit is functioning - sending editing parameters to the speaker system - but no data shows up on the lit display screen.
Thanks a ton.
I just read in another forum that the LCD display appearing black (but backlit) could be due to the ribbon connectors being loose behind the screen.
You would have to open the unit to check...
However, this would most likely void your warranty if your unit is still under one.
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This mixer will run 2 8 ohm cabinets per side, if this is an older unit, it has only one NL2/combo jack per channel....with the button on the front panel in the Main Monitor position you can run 2 main cabinets and 2 monitor cabinets, you will have to daisy chain your speakers.All speakers powered from the back of the unit must be passive, no powered speakers.....if you want to use this head just to run moitors and run a pair of powered mains then connect the jack on the front that says main out to input of your powered speakers, hopefully your powered speakers can be daisy chained at low level, then if you want to use the 8600 to power only monitors, get a 1/4 in y cable and plug it into monitor out on the front of the mixer and then plug it into PA 1 and PA 2 to the right there and both sides will now be the monitor mix from this mixer and it will run 2 speakers per side, as long as the cabinets are 8 ohms.
Press and hold the Audio/Menu button for more then three seconds. This will take you to the setup menu. Press the Audio/Menu button to go thru each option. turn the dial to change the settings. Options in this menu are: USA or EU frequencies, Local or Distant tuning, Clock on or off while unit is off, Beep on button press, and finally, Backlight Hi or Low.
You are not likely to get the specific test criteria except from the manufacturer diredtly. Also, unless you have accurate testing equipment, you won't be able to confirm the accuracy anyways. Is there a specific problem that you are trying to solve? Realize that each band of the EQ has a cutoff curve and is not a singular frequency adjustment. Perhaps if you describe what you wish to know, we can provide additional details.
Also, can you confirm the make of the unit. I know of a Klark-technic DN360 but not a Koss.
I would want to know if it's just an indiction problem or an actual notch. Let's prove the signal is pure going to the EQ. Tune between FM stations with no automatic muting on your receiver so you can hear a loud hiss. Monitor the EQ display. There should be a lot of energy across the bands. If you see the notch swap the inputs to the EQ to prove it's in the EQ. Otherwise the signal is being affected upstream. Let's prove there's no audible notch in the bandwidth. This is the fun part. Set your system to just play Stereo with the FM hiss and if there is a Stereo Direct setting that bypasses internal circuitry, engage it. Adjust the EQ for equal level and flat response on both channels. Disconnect the two front speakers. Wire just one front speaker across just the Positive leads of the Left and Right amplifiers. This is not dangerous. (**) ** Back in the day we used this kind of wiring (with some proper resistance and circuitry to prevent interaction between the front channel speakers) to extract ambience (difference) information from plain stereo to drive a speaker at the rear of the room. Adjustment was done by selecting MONO and turning the Balance control for Minimum output, then going back to Stereo for listening. Ah, the old days. What this does is make the speaker play only what is DIFFERENT between the channels. If the source is truly MONO as it should be there will be a minimal output presented to the speaker. In an ideal world a true mono signal fed to both channels in this manner would result in total silence. There will always be some difference in the real world. You can prove the accuracy and fullness of the EQ signal by adjusting one channel of the EQ to be different and as you do the sound should start to rise as the Delta increases. Returning the controls to flat and equal should provide minimal output. If there is a solid audible difference in the treble range the EQ might actually be showing the 6.3khz deficiency accurately. To see if it's at 6.3khz adjust the LEFT channel downward to match the display of the RIGHT and the difference program material should become very low as heard from the speaker. That would indicate a true deficiency in the LEFT channel.
Fixing it might not be possible but you might be able to use the EQ to offset it.
If you are confident with opening up the mixer, do so, and check the ribbon cable which goes from the effects switch board to the main PCB in the middle of the unit. Check it is secure and hasn't come loose with movement or vibration. If it is all secure, and still not working, you will need to send it for repair to your local service centre / tech friend :)