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My husqvarna back pack blower's engine makes a loud knocking noise sometimes and other times in runs normally. I am using the correct fuel mixture. Any ideas?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Therinnaiguy
  • 1420 Answers

SOURCE: Loud Knocking

If the noise is not coming from the fan as Buffalo suggests, it is most likely the expansion and contraction of the heat exchanger. The old school way to lessen the noise of expansion is to bank the combustion chamber with a hammer. I don't recommend it today because the metal is so thin (thus all the noise) and you may damage it. You will get used to it and the noise may soften the more it is used. You will never get it to stop.

Posted on Dec 04, 2007

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Lifter noise

This is a very common issue with General Motors. I have never bothered to try and fix it because it is not causing any harm. It is because General Motors still uses a push rod motor and the cold oil causes it to knock a little until the oil gets warmed up.

Posted on Aug 05, 2008

chad7houston
  • 62 Answers

SOURCE: leaf blower is loud and motor not set in correctly.

Sounds like the brushes on the motor are bad. Sorry, but this is not repairable. It could also be that the motor is not secured to it's support housing, but I would have to see it in person to make this determination. Electric leaf blowers are not made to be repaired, because it's usually cheaper to buy a new one. I know this is probably not what you wanted to hear. However.....since it is probably junked anyway, it's not going to hurt one bit to try and take it apart and tinker with it to see if there is an obvious problem. Just pay attention to how it comes apart, in case you want to put it back together. Hope this helps,

Chad

Posted on Nov 01, 2008

meBNme
  • 334 Answers

SOURCE: HEATER MAKING LOUD NOISES

Check the draft inducer motor for any partial blockages or dibri.

I've seen sticks, birds nest particles and pieces of deteriorating fan blades (squirrel cage type fans) cause this.

You might also find that the inducer motors bearing are going.

If its a loud vibrating grinding type noise, I'd suspect bearings or missing pieces of the blades. (unbalanced)
If it's a clanking type noise I'd suspect loose items hitting the fan.

The inducer motor will only operate right before and during burner operation, while the blower motor can operate at any time depending on your setting.

Posted on Dec 06, 2008

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Nissan Quest - Engine chatter/knocking

Ther e is a chance your injectors are leakin g down and there is excess fuel in the cylinders. Not a good thing. So, you fuel pressure and injectors need chkg. good luck

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

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1 Answer

2004 Ford explorer engine knocking


take it to an accredited service shop that has experience on your make of engine and have a proper diagnosis done and quote
it is possible that there is a spinning main bearing and the test is a oil pressure test using a mechanical gauge
some times it spins , low oil pressure -knocking other times it stops and the oil pressure goes back up , knocking stops
should I be correct , normally it can be repaired in car by removing the sump and replacing that bearing shell, of the shaft is not damaged
i would steer away from a new engine or suggestions of a blown engine but it could be serious

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Kia sorento 2012 produce sound look like power steering problem and it gets louder when ever I acceleration gear, so I took belt out and start the engin with no belt I found that sound was in engin!!


If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 15, 2013 | Kia Sorento Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Makes knocking noise that sound like something is loos banging only when jeep warms up and only in gear


TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 07, 2013 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Husqvarna Repair Manual


Have you used the correct fuel and oil mixture.?
If its new and still under warranty then take it back to your local dealer.
Here's the parts manual

May 08, 2013 | Husqvarna Backpack Leaf Blower 350 Bt Yard...

1 Answer

Redmax ebz5100 blower stumbles/misfires periodically until engine is hot?


What happens if you play with the choke ? does it clear up or change, If it does then it's a fuel problem example : fuel filter, fuel line cracked,dirt in carb. If the choke does'nt make a difference then , try a new spark plug Good Luck, Let me know how you come out 2StrokeJim

Nov 27, 2011 | Redmax Ebz5100 Back Pack Power Blower...

1 Answer

I have a Husqvarna 130 BT will not start; spark plug gap is proper; gas mixture is proper; filter is clean and the engine is getting gas and spark; help


pull your muffler and see if it starts,if not you are looking to more serious problems like crank seals or loose flywheel causing timing to be off

May 16, 2011 | Husqvarna 295cc Back Pack Blower HVH 130BT

1 Answer

What s fuel mixture for husqvarna fuel mixture 125 blower???


Mate, I run mineona 20:1 mix.
they tend to only used a stronger mix (i.e.50:1) for the first 20 hours of operation. Hope that helps.





Jan 07, 2011 | Husqvarna Backpack Blower 25cc, 140 Mph,...

1 Answer

Engine started knocking badly at high RPM. Just loan it to a friend and think he may have put straight gas in it?


Usually if straight gas was run it seizes up, but not all the time, if it didn't run long. If you take off the muffler you can look inside the cylnder, pull the starter rope untill the piston goes down and then you can view cylnder walls. This should appear smooth and shiny, any scratches and gouges would indicate straight fuel was used. If the cylnder shows these signs its an expensive fix. Good luck, hope this helps.

Dec 10, 2010 | Husqvarna 502cc Back Pack Blower HVH 350BT

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My truck is making a loud knocking sound when I drive it


first you need to check the oil level (with engine off) if level is good than listen to engine knock with the hood open make sure it is coming from the engine and not the belt tensioner or something external on the engine,if nothing is found than engine will need to be repaired best thing is to bring it to a local shop for evaluation.best not to drive it much longer like this ,it could leave you stranded.

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I have a Hasqvarna 150BT blower that started to make a knocking noise at full power and has lost some power. Seems to start ok. Loss of power / rpm and knock are only ploblem?


I had the same issue with a Husqvarna 150 BT blower. Brand new ran through 2 tanks of gas and need to buy more gas , mixed 50 to 1 ratio 87 octane on new gas which was the same as what i was running and it started pinging and running like **** then stalled and would not start. took the plug out and it was fouled. cleaned the plug got it running again but still not good. This model comes with a NGK CMS7H plug which i replaced with a champion RZ7C and new gas 93 octane and lawnboy oil mixed 50 to 1 ration and now its running like a champ. I've had bad experiences with NGK spark plugs in the past and thought this may resolve the issue and it did. Hope this is helpful to anyone out there having the same issues. Also used some fuel stabilizer in the fuel mix, I hear this helps with the ethanol problem in the fall/winter gas.

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