Question about Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

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My kenmore washer will not agitate or spin. It makes a noise when it is trying to agitate the clothes or in the spin cycle.

Posted by Anonymous on

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  • Master
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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Posted on May 13, 2010

6 Suggested Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Series 70 Kenmore Washer Won't Agitate or Spin

baseball, sounds like a broken coupler, check out this post and post back, Catriver http://www.fixya.com/support/t144580-kenmore_8series_washer

Posted on Apr 27, 2007

dididsaythat
  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: Washer agitates, but makes horrible grinding noise. Spins okay.

thanks for posting problem solve :0)

Posted on Sep 03, 2007

danromarris
  • 101 Answers

SOURCE: washer makes noise during spin cycle, wont agitate

Sounds like your transmission is going out. Yes washing machines do have transmissions, I know, strange huh? Anyway, the transmission is connected to your motor and the motor makes it spin and agitate. The transmission goes up into the tub and is basically the agitator. When the gears go bad in it, it will start making a loud noise almost like a grinding noise and won't spin properly or agitate. It is expensive to fix, almost as much as a new washer. Your best bet is to buy a new machine unless you can find a good deal on a refurbished transmission. Those will sometimes run only around 150 dollars. A new one though will cost you around 250. You might be able to find a good deal though. They are easy to fix, I myself replaced one in 15 minutes once when I was still a repair man for Sears. So, check out some prices and see what the best way to go is for you. If you have any questions about installing it let me know and I can give you an easy step by step walk through on it. I hope this helps you out and good luck.

Posted on Jan 22, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Amana washing machine makes loud noice when trying to spin

sounds like you are dealing with the same problem as me .
take off the front panel (after unplugging power) take a flash lite and look at the large pulley at the back just below the pulley is the helix check to see if they are worn .

http://fixitnow.com/wp/2008/10/21/amana-washer-makes-loud-ratcheting-noise-during-spin-but-doesnt-actually-spin/

Posted on Feb 26, 2010

  • 1937 Answers

SOURCE: my kenmore washer will not agitate or spin

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor Coupler is OK, I'd test the lid Switch:

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.



Posted on Mar 19, 2010

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