Question about Kenmore 63942 Dryer

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Dryer get scorching hot immediately. The blower side is cool and we have removed all the lint from the dryer. Any ideas?

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You need to clean out the duct that the lint filter slides into,vac out the inside of dryer where the motor is and if the vent line is long i use a leaf blower to blow out the line.if the filter is on top,unplug the dryer first before you touch it,pull out the filter and remove the two phillips screws in front of it,then remove the vent line and take off the back panel.on the left side you'll see the duct that the filter slides into,remove the 4 screws that hold in on and remove it and clean it out,go outside and make sure the vent is clear,if there's a cage or a screen on it remove it and throw it away,blow out the vent line,next pop the top panel up with a screw driver,there are 2 clips one on each side that holds the top to the front panel around 2 inches from each side in the front,put the screw driver in between the panels and pop it up,on the right side there's a wire harness,pull it apart,it's easier to stick a screw driver in the holder to separate the harness,then there are 2 5/16 inch screws one on each side around 3 inches down from the top,remove them and pull up on the front panel and remove it,vac out the inside of dryer,if you have a shop vac blow all the lint off of the motor and you can blow all the lint and dust forwards so you don't have to remove the drum,some people have trouble putting the belt back on when the drum's this once a year and you won't have any fires and you won't pop any thermostats or thermal fuses in the dryer.let me know how you make guy wrote back and said he had a birds nest in the vent line and the leaf blower cleaned it all out

Posted on May 15, 2010

  • Sal DeAngelo May 15, 2010

    if the filter is in the front,pop the top up,the screws are on the sides and two more down on the bottom,you'll see the bottom screws when you remove the bottom panel,mark the colors on the door switch wires,you can use a shop vac to blow the lint out of the duct that the filter slides into so you don't have to remove the bulkhead,and remember hhere the door springs connect to



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Lgq9858pw dryer. Clothes would come out damp and cold. I replaced 2 thermostats (?) in the rear of the unit, located on the heat shield. The clothes now come out warm, not hot, but still damp. Any ideas?

if you popped the high limit thermostat that usuallt pops when the dryer needs to be cleaned out.pull out the lint filter,unplug the dryer,remove the two phillips screws in front of the filter,go in the back,remove the vent line remove the back panel and remove the duct that the lint filter slides into and clean it out,if you can't remove the duct push it to the right and vac out the blower wheel and pull the duct out towards you so you can get the vac into the duct to clean it,also if you have a brush you can brush all the lint down to the bottom and vac it up.if the vent line is a long run to the outside i use a leaf blower to blow out the vent line,go outside first and make sure the vent is clear so the lint will blow or both of these sound like it's blocked with lint or you can also have bad gas coils.the coils work for the first 15 to 30 minutes and stop working when they heat up.after they cool down they will work again until they get can start the dryer,pull off the plastic cover on the left side so you can see the flame ignite,watch the flame lite,after 15 to 30 minutes go back and look into the hole,if the flame isn't liting you know the coils are failing.easy fix,unplug the dryer,the coils are on top of the gas valve,remove the two pillips screws,remove the cover and replace the coils,part number 279834 and they are around 20 dollars,you get both coils instead of getting them should clean the dryer once every year so the dryer runs like it should,clothes drying on time,your parts will last longer and you don't have to worry about any lint fires

May 04, 2011 | Dryers

2 Answers

Electric dryer, runs for about 20 min then shuts down, can restart after a period of time, then runs about 20 min and shuts down

you have a bad motor,most likely you don't clean out the dryer,this is the number 1 killer of dryers.the vent line,the duct that the lint filter slides into and the cabinet where the motor is needs to be cleaned out if it's gas once a year,electric once every two years.all a dryer does is move air,when lint starts to build up the dryer starts to run hotter then normal from the lint build up and the dryer can't move the air as easy as when everything is cleaned out and then parts start to brake like the thermal fuse will pop from running to hot or the motor starts to over heat like yours and shuts down.when the motor gets hot the oil that's inside it leaks out,you'll see it stuck to the side wall and on the rear end of the drum with lint stuck to it.there's an overload in the motor that pops when the motor gets hot and after a while when it cools down the overload resets,that's why you can start it again after a while so basicly you have to replace the motor and clean out the dryer,if the vent line is a long run,remove it from the back of the dryer and with a leaf blower blow it out,you'll see all kinds of stuff blow out through the outside duct and clean out the duct that the lint filter goes into and the cabinet where the motor is or replace the dryer.

Apr 08, 2011 | Kenmore 62602 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

My dryer is a model 110.85862400 - it appears to be drying on very high temperature only. I ran it and it was very hot. Turned it off let it cool and ran it again and it still was very hot. Let it cool,...

Your dryer doesn't have a cycling thermostat and instead, it uses a thermistor located on the blower housing. The thermistor used to monitor and attain the correct dryer temperature. It is likely faulty and doesn't give the appropriate resistance for the right dryer temperature. This will eventually lead to thermal fuse blowing and the dryer will stop working. Access the thermistor to check its resistance then refer to thermistor resistance and temperature table below. Replace the thermistor if the resistance is not found in the table.

Disconnect power then remove the two hex-head screws from the bottom flange of the toe panel then pull the panel down and off the cabinet.

Remove the hex-head screw from the lint duct bracket and remove the bracket. Remove the two hex-head screws from the lint duct and remove the duct to expose the thermal fuse on the blower housing.

Remove at least one of the wires from the terminals of the thermistor when measuring its resistance. Remove the two-hex-head screws securing it to the blower housing when replacing it and install the new one. Reassemble in reverse order of the disassembly steps.


Let us know if you need further advice.

Jan 29, 2011 | Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer runs and drys cloths but dosent cool down and stop

when was the last time you cleaned out the dryer?unplug the dryer,remove the bottom panel,take out the lint filter and remove the duct that it slides into.clean the duct out,vac out the inside of dryer,if you have a shop vac you can put it on blow and blow the lint forwards so you don't ha ve to remove the drum.put that back together and remove the vent line from the back of dryer,if it's a long run blow it out with a leaf blower,also make sure the outside vent is clear before you blow out the vent line,if the dryer can't move the air around it will run hot.

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1 Answer

I have a Kenmore 70 Series electric dryer #66702 that stops before the end of the cycle time. It will start up again after pusing the start button but may turn itself off again after a few more minutes....

This is usually caused by a motor getting too hot. The motor has a shutoff to protect it against burnout. It will reset when it gets cool. As the motor overheats more and more these shutoffs become more frequent and longer

Motors get hot for several reasons:

1. Motor going bad
2. Lint around motor causing it to retain heat
3. Vent system open at some point inside or behind case allowing heated air to remain in motor area

Follow the procedure below to disassemble and check interior of dryer. Vacuum carefully especially around and in the ends of the motor.

Disconnect Power. Lift Cover on lint filter. Remove two Phillips screws taking care NOT to allow them to fall into the blower housing. Place putty knife in the seam between the top and front panel about 2” in from either side. Push in on clip while pulling control panel forward and tilting putty knife handle up, all at the same time. Same on opposite side. Raise top all the way.

Looking down inside dryer on left and right see a 5/16” hex head screw about 6 inches down. Remove each side while holding front panel in place. Pull top of front panel about 3 inches forward from sides and then pull up. This will disengage the front panel from lower pressure clips and allow you to turn it sideways and expose the dryer interior. Reverse process to re-assemble. Take careful note of belt configuration BEFORE removing it. Draw a diagram of its travel.

Motor and idler pulley for dryer will be on right.

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You have a venting issue. Pull the dryer away from the wall and unhook it, then clean out the vent. What works well is if you take the screen off of the out side and us a leaf blower to clear out the lint build up.

Jul 07, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

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Take a flashlight and look inside the drum at the holes on the back end of the drum where the hot air comes in. On mine, there is an air deflector on the back side of the drum and the space between this deflector and the drum was packed with lint. The lint blocked about half the holes. I had to take the drum out, remove this deflector by removing four screws inside the drum then cleaning out the lint. The lint was all brown and scorched.

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