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Inner tine is not fixed wobbles and is wearing nut down

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Have a GE WSXH208HWW Spacesaver, Washing Basket is wobbling. What is the problem and can I fix it myself?

2 possible problems. On the outside of the tub front and on the top back are cement counter weights that are bolted to the tub. If they are coming loose, they would cause the tub to go off balance and wobble. If just the stainless inner tub is the one that wobbles, that suggests a bad rear drum bearing. The counter weight problem easy to fix once you get the top and back off and just need re-tightened. The back drum bearing is something even trained techs want to avoid. It requires removing the complete tub/drum assembly from the washer----then splitting the outer tub in half to replace the inner drum and bearing assembly. Cost for parts will be excessive and not worth the repair.

Apr 04, 2015 | GE Washing Machines

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My 80 series model 28882790 agitates fine but when it comes to the spin it slips and in very noisy. Can't get to full speed.

Can you wobble the inner tub from side to side?(in a working machine that can not be done) if so what has happened is the spin tube has broken free from the drive block that is used to attach that spin tube to the inner tub. At very least the parts that would need to be replaced are the spin tube,drive block & the spanner nut . Looking up the parts,they cost $135.00 plus if were something you attempted to repair yourself a specalized tool would be needed to remove and reinstall the spanner nut, if you had a repair co. fix it, i would estimate the cost to be $225.00 to $275.00 but at least they would have the specilazed tool

Jul 24, 2011 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Inner primary seal keeps leaking replaced three times all other seals replaced to rode another 1200 kms leaking out inner primary seal still which brand off equitment do you reccommend to use or why is it...

There are several places that could be leaking in this area. First let's talk about the seal that goes in the backside of the inner primary. I always use the James double lipped seal in this area. When you install the seal, put some sealant on the outside circumference of the seal. It must be installed to just below the surface of the primary and it must be straight. Before putting the inner primary back on, lubricate the inner bore of the seal as well as the surface the seal is going to seal against. If the engine starts up and seal has no lubrication on it, the friction will burn the delicate sealing lips and they will be damaged. Your leak could also be the large seal in the face of the transmission behind the front belt pulley. Everything I just said about the inner primary seal applies to this seal as well. The last thing is the pulley could be worn in the spline area in the center of the pulley. You didn't say what year model your bike was but over time, these splines wear and the pulley becomes loose. When this happens, the tension on the "quad seal" behind the spacer on the transmission main shaft fails. Transmission lubricant seeps down between the mainshaft and the spacer and out of the splined area of the front belt pulley. Take the lock plate off the front pulley and check to see if the large nut is tight. If it isn't tight, this could be the problem. The large nut has LEFT HANDED THREADS. Retorque the nut to 150 Foot Pounds. You'll need a special socket and sprocket locking tool to do this job. Take the pulley off and check the splines and replace the quad seal. Make sure you check all the areas whenever you have the inner primary off.

Jul 17, 2011 | Harley Davidson FXDL Dyna Low Rider...

3 Answers

There sems to be something scraping and catching between the outer and inner drum,how do i access this area to check the problem out?aquarius wml520

remove agitator on centre shaft there is a nut that has to bee removed if spin tub wobbles that may be the problem

Jun 16, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a 2004 Duece FXSTD. Drops of oil was found on the floor under clutch area of the primary. After some inspection, I found that it was streaming from the inner primary.Got a seal set from Motor...

Did you check your front belt pulley? These pulleys are made of relatively soft cast iron as compared to the final drive gear. This is so that the easily replaced and relatively inexpensive front pulley wears before the difficult to replace and expensive final drive gear wears. The pulley will wear in the splined inner bore and will get loose on the final drive gear. Then transmission oil will run out of the pulley and down the inner primary. This is because of the lose of pressure on the "Quad" ring behind the pulley spacer. This may be your problem.

Another mistake a LOT of people make when replacing any seal is putting the seal up dry. On the inner primary seal, you want to put a bit sealer compound around the outer edge of the seal where it goes into the case. Although there are a lot new sealants out there, I still prefer good Permatex non-hardening. Once you get the seal in and straight, oil the inner seal surfaces and the bearing race. If you put the seal up dry, you start the engine, the mainshaft turns about 1000 rpm. This will burn up the delicate rubber lips on the seal almost instantly because of friction before the oil can get to the seal. You MUST lubricate the seal or it WILL burn up before you can blink an eye.

Also check the position of the inner primary bearing race. It must be 0.100" from the final drive gear. If it's way out of position, the seal may not be riding properly on it.

If you are in doubt about whether the transmission is leaking or the primary, refill the primary with a quart of automatic transmission fluid, the red stuff. It will work long enough for you to determine whether it's the transmission leaking or the primary leaking. If it's the transmission, check the front belt drive pulley for wear, You'll usually find that the large nut that holds it on is loose.

Good Luck

Dec 27, 2010 | 2004 Harley Davidson FXSTD - FXSTDI...

2 Answers

GE washer Model WDSR2080D5WW Transmission shaft wobbles

If you can't loosen the nut, you can break it with a hammer and a metal chisel. Tub nut is cheap. Grease on clothes = new transmission time.
By the way, after you remove the inner tub,.... you have to take the entire outer tub assembly out of the washer, flip it upside down, remove the yoke that holds the motor onto the outer tub, and pull the transmission out through the bottom of the outer tub.

Jun 11, 2009 | GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer

3 Answers

Car tires wobble at low speeds

Rim may have a dent or a weel balance weight may have fallen off.

Have the balance checked before your tires develop abnormal wear.

Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

May 18, 2009 | 2000 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

Just want to know how to put the rotors on the car.

If your rotors (new ones) came as just the rotor with no center hub, just remove the brake caliper, take the rotor off and put the new one back on. But, the one i think you have is a bit different...with hub attached. On that one, remove the center cover, cotter pin and nut.
Remove caliper. push on one side of the rotor and the outer bearing and washer will come out. Put the parts aside and pull on the rotor and it will come off. Put the nut back on the spindle and put the rotor on over the nut, "hook" the inner bearing on the nut as you give the rotor a quick tug (like removing it) and inner bearing will come out.
Clean and re-pack bearings and install (I recommend you replace the inner seal.) Put together in reverse order of removal, tighten nut snugly but not really tight, turn rotor while tightening. It is tight enough when there is no wobble in the rotor. that is all you need.Don't forget the cotter pin. If hole does not align, tighten do not loosen nut till hole aligns.

Apr 24, 2009 | Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Tie rod problem 98 Dodge

There is a tool that you can use that will make it easier for you. To get to the tie rod end, remove the wheel and take the outer tie rod end loose from the hub. You will have to use a hammer and hit the socket where the end goes into the hub to free it up. Once you have the tie rod loose from the hub, loosen the nut behind the outer tie rod end. Count the revolutions as you unscrew the outer end off and write te number down so you will know how far to put it back on. This will save your alignment. Now, the end that is still there is your inner tie rod end. You will have to undo the bellows boot to get to the nut. The tool will slide over the end and secure onto the nut. Now you just unscrew this and replace with you new inner tie rod end.
Please remember to rate this fix.

Feb 16, 2009 | 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan

2 Answers

Mechanic says the front inner tie rods need replacement

No the front tie rods shouldnt wear out that quickly, i still have the originals on my 86 truck! i think that the mechanic must of installed them incorecttyl or "rigged" them i.e. fix it the cheap way

Nov 24, 2008 | 2002 Ford Taurus

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