Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Fault Code F1
Frigidaire oven fault code F1 means the electronic clock control is bad and should be replaced. That is the electronic control board that shows your clock display and is also called clock or eoc, depending on your model.
Posted on Mar 25, 2008
F1 means the flood switch has been activated. here is a trouble shooting flow chart.
1. did a flood occure? yes. q-2 or no q-12
2. is the lid sealing on the tub correctly? yes Q-3 no=Answer
3. Is there a high water level in the tub. Yes-q4 no q-6
4. is the water valve leaking? yes=Answer no-Q 5
5. Is the dish drawer priming correctly? yes q-11 no q-6
6. Is the spray arm split. yes=answer, no q-7
7. is the spray arm running freely. yes q-8 no q=answer
8. is the water leaking from a split inlet or drain hose? yes = answer, no q9
9. is the water leaking around the heater plate or o rings. yes=answer, no q10
10. carroy out more testing to locate the source of the leak.
11. drain hose may have been blocked or partially blocked.
12. is there water or condensation around the chassis flood switch pcb.
13. if power fails to the bottom tub, it will cause the top tub to f1
Posted on Jan 31, 2010
This is how i did mine
saved about 300 dollars
First thing I did was pull the front panel off the drawer,
Fisher Paykel DD602 dishdrawer with the front panel removed.
With that front panel off, I pulled the wire harness connectors off the main control board (lower right-hand side) to inspect for gookus. None found--my quest continued.
The next step to remove the botton drawer from the unit so I could inspect the flood switch. In order to do this, I had to remove the wire harness cover on the underside of the drawer. This is what the underside of the dishdrawer looks like with the botton cover panel removed:
Fisher Paykel DD602 dishdrawer, looking at the underside of one of the drawers with the wire cover plate removed.
With the bottom cover off, I could unclip the wire harness, fill hose, and drain hose. Then I unclipped the linkage at the back of the drawer and lifted the drawer off the slider arms. All this to expose the flood switch, shown on the left-hand side of the bottom panel in the picture below:.
Fisher Paykel DD602 dishdrawer with the lower drawer removed. The flood switch in mounted on the base, left hand side.
After noting the positions of the wires on the flood switch and removing them, I unclipped the switch housing from the base panel. The switch housing contains one switch for each drawer. The switches are wired normally closed (NC) and each switch has three spade connections, so it's important to note where the wires went. With the switch housing out, I could ohm out both switches and both checked good. I inspected the contacts and noticed that one of them was oxidized, evidenced by discoloration.
and clean off the contacts. That'll restore the current flow for that circuit. ." So I cleaned the contacts and reassembled the dishdrawer. I ran the top drawer and...no F1 error code! I ran it several more times just to be sure.
Posted on Nov 23, 2010
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