Question about Kenmore 73502 / 73504 / 73509 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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The flap or valve ? to the compressor that is supposed to open and close will not stay open and the compressor cannot stay on. IT is a bottom freezer with double doors on top Kenmore,and it was making frost (snow) in the top right side of the freezer and then defrosteted really fast. The fan is running and it will cool back down a little and then get hot again.

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The thermistors may have vibrated out the cradle. A simple fix. You must know how to access and Identify the thermistors. I have manual for you.


I would help you. Let me know.

Posted on May 13, 2010


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1 Answer

Ice door flap will not close

I had a similar problem once. i opened the door and used a hair dryer blowing into the dispensing area of the door. There was a ice build up that was not visible with a quick look. It takes a while so be patient when thawing and be sure not to use too high of setting so you dont deform any of the plastic parts.

Mar 17, 2014 | GE Profile PSS26NGS Side by Side...

1 Answer

Walk in freezer solenoid not opening

Many Kenmore side-by-side refrigerators have an ice and water dispenser installed on the outside of the freezer door. The ice dispenser has a flap that opens to allow ice to be released, and closes after dispensing to keep the cold air inside of the freezer. The dispenser flap is opened and closed by a solenoid, that when energized pulls the plunger attached to the flap, opening the door. If the flap stops opening and closing, it is likely due to a faulty solenoid.

Jul 29, 2012 | Freezers

2 Answers

My compressor runs but will not fill with air

I got one of these from a buddy and was told it would run but not build any pressure. He "gave" me the compressor figuring it was a boat anchor (useless) and I took apart each area of the compressor from the airline receiver back to the compressor. Eventually I landed in the compressor's pump piston and the intake head where I discovered that the valve system used had three (3) small stainless steel "flaps" that were supposed to function to open and close the intake port and compression port as the piston traveled up and down. The "center" flap had snapped off where it was mounted on the head which explained why there was no build up of pressure, it escaped as quickly as it was drawn into the cylinder through the same port due to the broken off flap not being there to close the intake port.
After a search on the web about the issue, I found these compressors had a serious issue with the valve system and found tons of references to other owners with the same issue, "runs but won't build up pressure". Worse yet, in my search, I discovered that simply "replacing" the broken valve with the "Bostitch" part, they would break again in relativly fast succession and one owner said he replaced his three times before he just put the compressor under a work bench and wrote it off.
Apparently, the "stress" and viabration of it's function is too much for the designed "single valve" as it was reffered to) system and these little "flaps" were prone to "snap off" in a very short period of use and even after replacement did not hold up. Incidentally, I also noted rust pitting on the flaps from their exposure to humidity during use and even if the "stress and viabration" didn't break them, it was apparent that it would not take long for the rust to begin effecting the compressor's ability to develope pressure through leakage from the pitting holes.
The "Good News" is, after a search I happened upon a company that offered a "refit" valve and head assembly that replaces the "single valve" system with a "redesigned" "Two Valve" system that bolts right in ! I called the company and asked if this was specifally designed for my application and was told it was so, I ordered it.
I didn't order the new "piston ring" as mine did not seem to have gotten "torn up" by any of the parts that had broken, you will want to check yours before ordering because if the "ring" is damaged why not get the whole problem solved at once? Anyway, my parts came very fast (I think 2-3 days from my order date), I followed the included diagram (be sure the valve plate is facing the right direction (valve ports towards the "back") assembled the rest and WaLa !! She pumps like new !
Needless to say my "generous" friend was upset, the total with shipping was $32.00 and the repair (not inclding the waiting period for parts) was about an hour and a half !
Here is the company website and part number I hope will help you solve your problem, good luck!

(0006) VALVE PLATE RETRO KIT Part #AB-9429999

Jan 31, 2011 | Stanley FactoryReconditioned Bostitch...

2 Answers

Refigerator is freezing food

Hi, this problem is going to be with the running thermostat. It has gone bad and stays open which in turn will keep the compressor running continually. It can normally be located in the control panel inside the fridge. Locate the thermostat and replace it. If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Good Luck!! Mike

Sep 18, 2009 | LG LRFD22850 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator...

2 Answers

Ice dispenser door flap will not close completely. I'm sure something has sprung or broke inside the door. How do I get the face off to look at the mechanism that opens and closes the door?

Remove the top freezer hinge hover on top of the freezer door . Unplug the receptical there ( this will remove power to the door only ) .
Using a small screwdriver at the "crease" on the bottom of the dispensor control board inside the dispensor , twist slightly to disengage the 2 clips ( 1 on each side ) holding the dispensor board . Unplug the 3 connectors from the board . 4 screws ( 1 on each corner ) hold the dispensor housing shield . Remove these 4 small screws . After removing , at the top right , you will see a solenoid and plunger . These are probably rusted , holding the flap open . The part number for the solenoid and plunger is WR62X10055 . 3 screws hold this part on . When reinstalling the dispensor housing , It slides back on 2 "grooves" so make sure it is back in place , or the board will not snap back on properly at the bottom .

Sep 01, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

The freezer section of my fridge freezer side by side has broken down and will not freeze. The fridge side seems fine. Is it worth getting repaired? Prior to this I often heard like a clicking/ tapping...

So your refrigerator section is cooling fine ? When the compressor motor is running and you open your freezer, is the fan running ? You might need a simple fan replacement - The most costly repairs to a refrigerator is usually the compressor - as long as your compressor is running and you have cooling, the other most common problems are control board faults, evap fans, defrost timers, all of which can be fixed.

Is your freezer iced up when this happened - turning the refrigerator off and unplugging it, try removing the back panel of your freezer and locate the fan - look for anything obstructing the blades - maybe ice or other......otherwise you may need this serviced.

Is it worth it ? It depends - how much did you nitially pay for this ? How long have you had it ? How much are estimated costs for the repair - if the problem is one thing needing replaced and doesn't cost you a lot of money, yes it is worth it.

Aug 17, 2009 | Whirlpool GS6NBEXR Side by Side...

1 Answer

Ice Shoot area freezes up

If you grab the control panel at the bottom (the thing where you select ice water etc...) it will pop off exposing the screws you will need to remove..the part you want to replace is the dooor flap solenoid its held in place with 3 screws and will be rusted causing the piston to stick

Jun 21, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Fridge compartment too cold.

Most bottom mount freezer units work by diverting some of the cold freezer air up to the refrigerator through a duct that vents to the top of the refrigerator A thermostat in the refrigerator closes a flap in the duct when the refrigerator is cold enough.

It seems like the thermostat or flap is not working in your refrigerator. You can troubleshoot this by turning the refrigerator to the full warm setting and turning the freezer knob in the cold direction until you hear the refrigerator turn on. Place your hand near the vent at the top of the refrigerator, if cold air comes out that means the flap is not closing like it should.

If the flap is not closing, it might be frosted open. Pop the plastic vent off (they are usually held in with snaps) and inspect the flap. It should open when the fridge knob is turned in the cold direction and close when it is turned in the warm direction. If there is no frost jamming the flap, and the flap is not moving, the thermostat is likely defective. See the pictures below, one is flap open and the other is flap closed.c0498df.jpg67c95ca.jpg

Dec 15, 2008 | Kenmore Elite 22.4 cu. ft. Bottom Freezer...

1 Answer

Icemaker - flap won't open, cubes collect in chute

the actuating paddle that you are depressing to dispense ice actually pushes the door open at the top of the dispensor, soundsas if thered an issue withthe actuator arm

Nov 18, 2008 | Frigidaire FRS26R4A Side by Side...

1 Answer

Kenmore elite, 2002, side by side, model 106.53609202

ok first we need to see if your vent flap up top is bing iced over. you need either a philips screw driver or a 1/4 in nut driver. take off the cover to that flap. this flap is controlled by the electronic strip that controls the temp. on both sides. one question, is their ice build up in the back of the freezer? ok write me back when you get this done. kelly.

Sep 08, 2008 | Kenmore 63074 Top Freezer Refrigerator

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