Question about Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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How to replace bellow on whirlpool front loader washer

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A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn't cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.


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Posted on Sep 30, 2010

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1 Answer

Installing a bellows gasket onto duet sport whirlpool washer


The following link explains step-by-step how to replace the door bellow on a Whirlpool Duet series front loader:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load

If you haven't purchased a replacement yet, you can find one at any of the following web sites:


searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.


If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Aug 23, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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Purchased my Whirlpool front loader 4/2004, we are on our 7th bellow, new inner...


This advice is for the Kenmore Elite and Whirlpool Duet FRONT LOADER style washing machines. A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.

I hope you find these instructions helpful and good luck to you.

on Feb 21, 2011 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Hw do I replae the washer bellow seal on a whirlpool duet washer


The following link explains step-by-step how to change the door bellow on a Whirlpool Duet series front loader:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

I have found these sites to be reputable and provide great service. Prices differ between them, so shop and compare. The first three sites I've listed have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.

If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. If the link does not take you directly to the instructions I provided, copy and paste the link to your web browser. I hope you find this information helpful.

May 22, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Bellow ##W10111435 whirlpool washer WFW8300SW02.


The following link explains step-by-step how to change the door bellow on a Whirlpool Duet front loader:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load

If you have any questions about this repair, please post back and let me know. If the link does not take you directly to the instructions I provided, copy and paste the link to your web browser. I hope you find this information helpful.

Apr 28, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Leaks from bottom but only when i put a small load in


If this is a Whirlpool FRONT LOADER you need to remove the lower toe panel directly below the door to inspect the cabinet interior for the source of your leak. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576656-washer_leak__front_loader

The most common source of leaks on a front loader is the rubber door bellow. The bellow can develop cracks, rips or tears with age and needs to replaced. The following link explains how:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load

If you have any questions about this repair, please let me know so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.

Jan 21, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

2 Answers

Replace the bellow in my front loader whirlpool washing machine


Hello. You don't need any special tools to do this. Feel around the edge of the bellows seal until you find a spring in the groove behind the face of the seal. Using a small screwdriver, lever it over the edge of the seal, and slowly work the ring over the seal face. Peel the seal off of the mounting flange, and roll it inside the drum. Remove the front of the washer, and remove the spring on the inner part of the seal. Replace the seal, making sure that it is oriented in the same manner as the one you took off. Reassemble in the reverse order. There are a number of very good videos on YouTube. Type in "washing machine repair" and you'll find different chapters in what amounts to a series on repair.....good stuff.
Hopes this is helpful to you. Best regards, --W/D-- please feel free to rate this carefully hand crafted answer! Thanx!

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1 Answer

Door lock error whirlpool duet front loader


DO NOT BYPASS A SWITCH UR HOUSE WILL BE FLOODED INS WILL NOT COVER IT. YOU NEED A DOOR LATCH, AN MMC AN PROB A BELLOWS CAUSE YOU WILL RUIN IT PUTTING THE SPRING CLAMP BACK ON. DO URSELF A FAVOR AN CALL A SERVICE TECH

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1 Answer

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If the leak started occurring after the bellow was replaced, and it's on the left hand side of the door, I suspect the bellow is not seated around the fill tube all the way. I have experienced this problem before. Check the fill tube where it comes in by the door. The rubber should be seated back far enough to allow the tube to fill into the tub without obstruction. It could be that the fill tube is forcing water BEHIND the bellow and leaking into the washer and on to the floor. To answer your question, "YES", replacing the bellow could have caused your leak.

Sep 29, 2007 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer

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