Question about Dryers
Acute Stated problem fixed; Dryer ran but had no heat. Happened on 3/27/08 fixed morning of 3/28/08. I replaced Thermal fuse. That was the malfunctioning part causing that problem.
Long term problem; Dryer has to be on high and run for 80 minutes to dry clothes. Cannot use any of the programmable cycles. Clothes don't dry at all when using that option or any heat setting other than high.
Trouble shooting attempts so far; Called Sears repairman three times unit was under warranty at time of calls. They did not resolve problem and said it was because the venting was to long. I did not believe but changed any way. I have checked to see if vent is clear. I have moved it based on sears repair man. It is now straight up 8 feet and out two ninety degree bends that is it . It is not the venting Sears. I have narrowed it down to the Thermistor part #8577274, or`Thermostat part # 3403140, or the sensor, radiant part # 338906. I am not a trained technician but thought this was logical approach.
I have given up on Sears repair they are very disappointing. Can you provide any starting point based on issue with unit. I have no clue! Also do you think it could be the control board? Let me know your thoughts. I would appreciate that very much.
Interesting issue, with the number of parts you providied id be willing to ri\ule out the thermistor #85777274(genarlly when this goes bad you get a fault code of some sorts}, and also the 3403140( youd get absolutly no heat if this part were bad.), and lastly the flame sensor is doubtful as well probly replaced 2 in my whirlpool career( the window may be dirty and need wiping but problably not that either. I honestly would have went with hthe sears guy as far ads the venting, its the number one issue with all dryeres. too long to dry = innadaquate vent . but being youve ruled that out as well. trust me an ew vent is woth the 30 dollar investrment you took.
id be willing to bet you have a bad set of valve coils(locatged ontop of the gas valve, easily replace for about 20 bucks. what ends to happen is that they fire just fine for the first 20 min or so of the cycle and then the get too hot/ overheat adn dont allow the flame to reignitre for the last portion of the drying period. untill the cool down enought to once again fire the flame.. part #279834
I woulda replaced them the second time out just to rule them out (if i was the sears guy) sure he had at least 6 sets on his truck ( i know I do)
Posted on Mar 29, 2008
I have a similar issue. I was confused by this posting. Did the "Thermal Fuse" fix this issue, or did replacing the coils do the trick? Also, is the two coil part 279834 a valid repacement for the 694540 & 694539?
Posted on Jun 21, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Had the same issue with my Whirpool. If the clothes are getting hot but not drying then there might be a build up of lint in the exhaust duct and/or passage. Once I replaced the the duct and ran a snake with a brush through the passage (my dryer was on 1st floor, vent ran up to 2nd) and cleaned out the lint build up in filter area it worked like new. Also keep in mind if you use dryer sheets they will leave an invisible residue on your lint filter thus restricting airflow. This can lead to the heating element burning out. The lint filter should periodically be scrubbed with a soft brush (an old toothbrush will do) under warm water with detergent (I use Dawn). This should keep the airflow moving through the dryer instead of keeping it in the drum. Hope this helps.
Oct 11, 2007 | Kenmore 3.8 cu. ft. HE3 Front Load Washer
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