Question about Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

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The indicator shows that the door is open, but the door is actually locked and it is unable to be opened. The door cannot be opened with the machine in 'pause' , with the machine in 'off' or with the machine unplugged. Additionally the machine will not runn because it senses the door is open.

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  • brynns_junk May 13, 2010

    the door is physically locked and I am unable to open it by any means.

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  • Master
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Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Please check the wax motor for proper resistance. To check the resistance, disconnect the electrical supply from the washer and remove the wire harness from the wax motor terminals and place ohm meter probes on it. The wax motor should have a resistance of approximately 1900 ohms at room temperature. The machine control monitors the door lock mechanism to ensure the door is locked. This is done through the door lock enable switch. During "lock mode," the shaft of the door lock mechanism is pressed forward by the door lock wax motor, and the shaft presses in the button of the door lock enable switch. If the machine control board sees the switch OPEN during the spin cycle, the machine control board will automatically shut the washer OFF. This is caused by a weak spring in the door lock wax motor. Replace the complete door lock mechanism. To order the door lock and how to replace it instructions please see the link---


Maytag Neptune Washer Door Lock


Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

Posted on May 13, 2010

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  • Maytag Master
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Www.servicematters.com/maytag_library/docs/16010061.pdf
Above, Service and repair troubleshooting procedures all in there to help. Discover the diagnostic code using the following procedure:
a. Plug the washer in for power.
b. Put the washer into "Service Mode" by holding the "Delicates" and "Heavy soil" keys simultaneously for 3 or more seconds. My washer showed a "00" on the screen when it was in Service Mode.
c. Pushed "Presoak" to put it in diagnostic code mode.
d. Pushed the down arrow key to read out the last diagnostic code. In my case the most recent diagnostic code was a "05", which the mini-manual says means "Continuous unbalanced circuit". In fact the mini-manual also says to "Check for: Faulty unbalance switches, Loose wire connections, Bad control board".
e. To find out how many cycles ago this happened, you can push the "Cotton/sturdy" button and it will tell you how many cycles ago this happened. I can't remember the response of my washer, but it either showed a "00" or "01".
To double check the diagnostic code, I
a. Cleared the list of diagnostic codes by holding the "Heavy soil" and "Presoak" buttons for 3 seconds while in the "Diagnostic code" mode;
b. Put the washer door back on and screwed it in without putting the entire front back on the washer.
c. Pushed the "off" button or unplug the washer and plug it back in to get it out of "Service mode".
c. Ran just the spin cycle, where it counted down to 7 and then was perfectly silent and then displayed a "00" without really trying to spin.
Double checking the diagnostic code probably wasnt' really needed, but I thought I would try it just to make sure.
With the washer unplugged again, I did the following to check that the switches were the problem, I checked the resistance of the circuit that has the following three switches in it: the inertial unbalance switch, the low tub displacement switch, and the upper tub displacement switch. If the circuit has effectively "0" Ohms of resistance, the switches are good. If you effectively have "infinite" resistance, then one of the switches is bad.
The mini-manual shows you where the switches are physically on the washer. The easiest way to check this is to find a connector that connects the three switches to the control panel. I found this by lifting the top panel of the washer up all of the way so I could access the top of the washer's tub. Based on the schematic from the mini-manual, the in-line connector has four wires. One side you will find a red wire with the number "23" on it and an orange wire with the number "40" on it. The other half of the connector has two blue wires connected to it, one with the number "23" on it and one with the number "40" on it. In my washer, this connector was placed on top of the washer toward the back.
To test to see if one of the switches is not working:
a. Disconnect the inline connector described above.
b. Test the resistance between the two terminals on the side of the connector having the two blue wires. I found that when I did this I had infinite resistance, so want of the switches was stuck open, indicating the "unbalanced " condition.
To find which switch was at fault, disconnect each switch from the circuit and tested each one individually. The one that was easiest to get to was the lower tub displacement switch, which is in the front on the bottom of the washer's tub. It worked fine (0 Ohms resistance normally and infinite resistance when you push the button). The next I tried was the inertial unbalance switch, which is placed on the top, right, front of the tub just underneath the block of concrete that is mounted on the tub. For convenience, I removed the concrete block so I could easily access and remove the switch.
This switch with the problem (it is effectively stuck open or infinite resistance). It seems to have some rod of metal in it that moves back and forth with the washers motion, so I just shook it vigorously and you could hear the rod of metal move back and forth. This seemed to free up the switch mechanism and the switch functioned again (showed "0" ohms when it was held in about the same position as it would be on the washer). I put the switch back in place and checked the connector with the blue wires leading to all three switches as before. This time I received effectively "0" Ohms, meaning that the problem was fixed.


Posted on May 12, 2010

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