Question about Krups ProAroma 453-71 Coffee Maker

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My Krups won't brew

My Krups Proaroma 453 was working beautifully. Then one day, I turned it on and - nothing. All of the other things work - I'm able to set the time, program the time I want it to automatically turn off, etc. It just won't brew! Every minute or so it clicks like it's trying to brew, but again - nothing. Please help. I'm sure it's something I did but I can't figure out what.

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  • RES1265 Apr 07, 2008

    Same problem. Timer, clock all function but brew function mysteriously stopped.

  • Marann May 13, 2008

    Thanks, Fauxscot, for filling me in on my Krups Proaroma. And you're right; it's a shame, but it's going in the trash and I won't be buying another Krups.

  • Anonymous Sep 14, 2008

    Same thing-Has been great for 3 yrs. Turned in on today-won't brew-water doesn't transfer from back to brew the coffee. Everying else works fine. Hot plate still gets hot. Bought my daughter one the same time I bought mine. Hers did the same thing- 5 days prior to mine doing this. Planned obsolescence??????? Of course, thanks Krups

  • Anonymous Apr 09, 2009

    won't work after programming with auto off

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The culprit is probably the thermal fuse. It's under the bottom cover, and you have to have Torx security bits (the ones with the holes in the middle) to remove the three screws holding it in place. Sadly, the thermal fuse is not resettable. Once it's tripped, it's dead. If you have this problem, forget about getting Krups or their lame service agent, smallappliance.com, to repair it. Both contacts I had with Krups were unsatisfactory. The factory/customer service folks say that there are no parts available and to buy a new coffee pot. Great solution. You can damn well believe it won't be a Krups. Or is it ****? An otherwise perfectly functioning unit gets sent to the landfill because the folks at Krups can't be troubled to find the part number. Idiots. For your info, there are thermal interrupters made by several manufacturers. The trip temperature on the breaker is 318 degrees, C. Something in the neighborhood of 200 degrees C would probably work, but would have to be soldered in. If you are comfortable with doing that, it's a solution.

Posted on Apr 17, 2008

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As noted by others the thermal fuse is the likely problem. I found a generic replacement thermal fuse at Radio Shack that is rated at 229 degrees C. and soldered in place. Although it is lower than the original 318 degree fuse it is still way above the operating temperature of the heater element. Unit works fine now.

Posted on May 18, 2009

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The thermal switch on the heater element of ours 6+ year old unit tripped completely a year ago. It is supposed to open at 300F then close again when the temp drops below a point. Unfortunately the disk can fatigue.

I found that the thermal disk had turned inside out. I took the thermal switch apart, popped the disk back, and put it back together. It worked fine until the last week or so when coffee started brewing slow, then the disk tripped again. This time I think the disk is too far gone, and I am reluctant to bypass it.

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

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Had the same type of problem with a hair dryer once. A thermal interrupter- I called it a planned obsolescence gizmo- died. I bypassed it with a silver wire soldered in and the hair dryer ran well until another part died years later!! Sailorb

Posted on Sep 14, 2008

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For what it\'s worth, my own strategy for fixing these units was to scrounge eBay for old ones, and use them as spare parts boxes. They were cheap, of course, and I managed to keep the 452/453 units working for a decade. About 4 months ago (2/2014), I finally caved and bought another coffee maker. The primary advantage of the Krups was decent firmware in the maker... lots of options... plate/brew temperature, auto-off interval, auto-off interval recycling/reset on power cycle, carafe pre-heat, easy to use. Nice work on the firmware, actually. It also appears that the replacement model maintained a fair amount of that, except you can\'t reset the auto-off timer with a power cycle anymore and they\'ve economized out many of the old buttons with menu selections that keep cost down at the expense of complexity, but the newer units are a pretty good bang for the buck for those who don\'t want to follow the Keurig path. So my model recommendation for the moment is the Krups FME2. (Since I plan to keep this running another decade, I bought an open box special for $12 as a spare parts box and have bought a total of 4 for an office, main house, second home, and the spare. So far, so good. Old gold filters do not fit the new funnel, but these makers are cheap and if you liked the 452/3 models, after a short learning curve, you\'ll like this one.



Still has the lame thermal fuse and will not let your start the unit with no water in the reservoir, so maxing out the autooff is the best way to prolong the ON period while maintaining leave-the-house safety. The best coffee comes out of the machine in the first 15 minutes, anyway, so after that it\'s all about caffeine, not flavor.

Posted on Jun 13, 2014

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I just had the same failure, but fortunately, had already bought a used 10-cup unit a few months back as a spare.

The component in question is a thermal circuit breaker, of the sort which does not reset. Once activated, it is destroyed,  

I have been unsuccessful locating the same component on the internet, but it seems to be a very high temperature unit, with the nomenclature "Tf 318 C" which because of the lower case "f", leads me to conclude that it's designed to trip at 318 degrees, C, or a very healthy 604 degrees, F.

Similar fuses in other appliances range around 230 degrees C (446 degrees F),  which is in the ballpark.

The failure is easy to verify.  If blown, there will be powdery white residue on the inside of the bottom plastic cover near the part.  Also, an ohmeter will show an open circuit across the contacts.  (Unplug the unit before measuring!)

Screws to remove the bottom cover are three tamper resistant torx screws.  

If I am unable to find an exact replacement, I will use a thermal fuse in the same power and temperature range (10 Amps, 300 degrees C trip).

Because my unit unequivocably did not experience over temperature conditions, I suspect this is a component aging issue and that there is no other problem with the coffee maker.

Supporting this is the fact that the unit works fine after I moved the good part from my spare coffeemaker to the dead one.  

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