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Need to reconnect threaded pvc connections in drip system. Had to CUT out the valve, now am stuck with only threaded connections and no room to add a union.

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By drip system you mean watering a lawn or garden? If so, you can cut off one of the threaded connections (far enough) back) to leave enough room for another threaded end, and a union.

Posted on May 11, 2010

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1 Answer

Inside unit is leaking. The drip pan is cracked. Is this replacable part.


contact the manufacturer we have no idea what you have .

Jul 08, 2015 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

There is a leak in our refrigerator and it seems to be coming from the bottom somewhere next to the fan from this thing.


Depending on the model or design of the fridge... most have a drip tray underneath the unit to collect the excess moisture pulled from the inside. This water is than directed to the drip pan.. where it is supposed to evaporate.. and there may be a small fan to speed this along as well as aid in keeping the compressor cool.. or even aid the condenser function.

Pull the reefer out and clean everything.. condenser coils and drip pan.. some times the drip pan gets so full of dust it overflows easily.. it's doubtful the tube leading to the drip pan is cracked.. but you can check to ensure it is actually directed into the pan..

If someone has moved the unit out to clean.. they may have banged into the pan causing to become tilted etc.

If you have an automatic ice maker.. check the fittings and connections.. be careful and have a bucket ready! There is generally a small self tapping/piercing t valve on the cold water line.. that supplies water to the ice maker.. you can shut the water off there..locate this valve first.. some installers use a nylon/plastic water line from the t valve to the reefer.. occasionally either the fitting comes lose.. or it becomes brittle and cracks.. if that's the case onece you have turned the water off at the t valve you can simply cut the hose, clean up the cut end, put the compression fitting back on (usually a good idea to get a new one) and reconnect.. turn on the water and check for leaks..

If this is a copper tube.. and simply snugging up the connection doesn't fix it.. you need a few more special tools to cut the tube.. reflare the end before reconnecting.

Of couse the first thing is to find the source of the leak.

Good luck!

Feb 26, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a Rheemglas 50 gal electric water heater. It is 6 years old. It has always worked fine without any issues. I recently drained it and refilled it. I notice from time to time that water is draining...


Hello, It sounds like your T & P relief valve is leaking and needs to be replaced. Over the years, corrosion prevents the valve from sealing properly if it's been opened. It is usually threaded into the top or upper side of the water heater with a pvc pipe attached to it for drainage. If you want to replace this valve, you can buy it at any hardware or home improvement store. Turn off the cold water shutoff valve on the top of the water heater and open the lever on the T & P valve to let it drain out the water. When the water level reaches below the T & P valve, it will stop draining. Then disassemble the pvc pipe if it's threaded, or if it's glued, cut off a section or fitting and replace it with a new one when you reassemble it. Use teflon tape to seal the threads on the new T & P valve. Wrap it around the threads 3-4 times in a clockwise direction with the threads pointed at you. To remove the T & P valve, you can use a 3/4" x 6" black iron or galvanized nipple as a leverage tool to untwist the valve from the water heater. Turn the cold water back on and make sure your thread seal is holding before filling it up all the way. Good luck! Douglas

Jun 27, 2010 | Water Heaters

1 Answer

Water leaking from the bottom of the big PVC pipe parallel to the water heater


What is the leaking pvc pipe connected to? The T & P valve on the side (or top) of the tank? Or is it an incoming cold or outgoing hot water line? If you have just lit the water heater, the T & P valve may drip, but only for a little while and it will stop. The T & P (temperature and pressure relief) valve may be bad and need replaced. Turn off the incoming cold water valve and turn the gas valve to off position. Then drain the water heater using the T & P valve, it will stop draining when the water level is just below it. Remove the T&P valve and replace with new one. Use thread sealing tape on threads. Or call a plumber if not sure.

May 15, 2010 | Rheem 50 Gallon FVR NATGAS Water Heater...

1 Answer

I have a Weather King AC/Furnace in the attic that's dripping water into the drain pan. When we purchased our new house it came with this unit and it never dripped ater. Now, the water is dripping towards...


I assume it is dripping water when the AC is running. If you look at the attic unit, there should be a PVC pipe running from the unit - probably an insulated PVC pipe. This pipe probably goes across the attic to the edge of the house and drains outside. The drain pan may also have a drain pipe, but the one on the AC unit is the issue, and is probably plugged. Go outside and see if you can locate the AC drain pipe. See if the ground is wet below the pipe and if water is steadily dripping from the pipe (with AC running). If the pipe and ground are dry, the pipe is plugged. If you have a wet/dry vac, try connecting it to the drain pipe outside to see if you can **** the pluggage out. If you can get it clear, water should start dripping out of the pipe. This same thing happened at our house. I decided to cut the pipe in the attic, and add in a PVC isolation valve, tee, and water hose connection with plug, so I can valve out the AC unit from the pipe, remove hose connection plug, and hook up a water hose and flush the line to outside. Lowe's sells all of the PVC pipe fittings. The water pressure from the hose will always flush out the algae and crud to the outside of the house. I can also remove the plug and pour a cup of bleach down the drain pipe every couple of months to keep algae growth in check. I also cut out the trap (u-leg) from pipe in the attic and purchased a ready made trap a Lowes (the contractor who built our house had made a lousy homemade trap). I purchased a few PVC elbows and installed the trap on the drain pipe outside. By the way, our AC drain pipe comes out of our wall outside and drains near our outside unit. Our secondary drain pan drain pipe comes out outside from an eave on the side of the house. I don't know what you drain line looks like (it may have a port to add bleach, or some cleanout provisions, maybe not). If you choose to modify/improve it, then make a sketch of it, go to Lowe's and get the PVC parts you need + PVC pipe primer and cement. PVC cement dries fast. Remember, the pipe must flow downhill from you AC attic unit. You can use a regular wood saw to cut the pipe. I hope this helps you. You need to keep the drain line clear as algae will continue to grow in it. Pouring bleach in the line every month or two helps. You also need to check maybe once a month that the line is draining properly (check to see if dripping outside). You can get some serious water damage to your ceilings if the water backs up and overflows. I discovered that our drain line was plugged just in time as our drain pan drain line was also partially plugged and drain pan was about to overflow.

May 08, 2010 | Weather King 12AJA4201AH Air Conditioner

1 Answer

My 1042 Power Humidifier has water under the PVC pipe leading from the unit into the drain. Does that mean the unit itself is leaking water?


Hi, if the unit is leaking and it looks as though it is coming from the PVC pipe, more then likely its leaking at the unit its self where the pipe connects. Water will run down the pipe and drip down line. Dry it off and put your hand around where the PVC pipe screws into unit. Unless the pipe is cracked, this is where the leak is. If the fitting is a male or female threaded PVC fitting and a piece of PVC pipe that goes to the drain, you can repair this very easy. Just cut the pipe near the fitting with a hacksaw. Unscrew the fitting that goes to unit. Go to a hardware store like Home Depot, take the old fitting with you and buy a replacement. Buy a coupling, a small can of clear PVC glue and a small can or tube of pipe dope to put on the fitting threads. Screw the fitting in first and make sure it has pipe dope on it, get it tight with pliers. Take the pipe and coupling and glue it on the pipe. Put glue on the other end and slide it in the fitting that was where it was leaking before. Hold it in place for a few seconds. Once you put the glue on, be ready to put it together as it drys super fast and you cant take it apart once it sets. Very easy to repair and the parts cost pennys. Keep me posted. You can do this and will learn about plumbing! Good Luck.
Shastalaker7

Jan 24, 2010 | General Filters 1042-LH Humidifier

1 Answer

1998 Altima GXE has a code of P1491. It was


Code P1491 is not the PVC Valve.It is the Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve.
Which is located above and away from the egr canister under the driver side rear bumper it is round and have about 3 hoses connected to it. if it is from a check engine light that says look at vacume cut valve check the egr canisters purge valve some times they stick and throw the wrong code

Sep 01, 2009 | 1998 Nissan Altima

4 Answers

The threads are stripped on my Hayward sand filter drain plug.


I've had the same problem every year since I bought this house 10 years ago with my Hayward filter drain and finally MacGyvered a great solution. Went to Home Depot and bought a 1" PVC shutoff valve. The Hayward drain has an outside 1 1/4" thread. The part I got was an 'Aqua-Dynamic' 1" PVC Schedule 40(I can't find a picture of it on the internet). It is a white PVC valve with an inside thread that mates with the Hayward and a red shutoff winged knob. You need to hacksaw the red wings off the knob in order to be able to screw it onto the drain because the filter's base gets in the way. Leave the valve in the open position(especially if water is still draining with filter off) and put PVC cement on the outside of the drain thhreads and a bit on the inside of the valve and screw it on. When the glue dries(5 minutes), you now have a drain that you can open and close every year with ease(you need a pair of pliers because the wings are off the turn knob but it works great!)

Jun 10, 2009 | Hayward SAND FILTER, PRO SERIES

2 Answers

Broken Nutone central vacuum unit


most of those systems are plumbed with PVC, but some do use flex throughout the home...
If yours is PVC, visit your nutone dealer and get a new outlet/elbow.
Trim the old elbow off with a drywall saw or other small saw (if you have a sawsall, that is fine) and glue the new one in
if it is flex tubing, it's easier; the elbow threads on. just be sure to hold the tubing so it doesn't drop down,

Jan 02, 2009 | Broan-NuTone CV353 Central Vacuum

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