Question about Kenmore 54603 / 54606 Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

My compressor has been running all day and is making a buzzing/grating sound and the temperature in both the freezer and the refrigerator appear to be warming.

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  • dcash27 May 11, 2010

    my compressor runs but it has been running none stop all day and is making a weird buzzing/grating sound. Also, every once in a while the compressor will start to make a knocking sound and then go back to buzzing. The temp in the freezer and frig is getting warmer. the door seals are fine and I have already clean the condenser coils.

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2 Answers

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  • Master
  • 10,515 Answers

Hi,

It is either a bad compressor or start relay you yourself can only really tell by replacing the start relay.The part can be found at www.repairclinic.com however being an electrical part it is not returnable if this is not the problem if it is not the problem the compressor would need replacement ( not a job that a homeowner can do ) if the fridge is under 5 years old the compressor should be covered under a 5 year manufacturers warranty.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!


Posted on May 11, 2010

  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 May 11, 2010

    Thanks for your response!!

    Yes, i am aware of the problems you mention. In my View , it is Faulty Compressor Relay.The ' Not Cooling Problem ' is due to the Compressor Relay.

    If Relay is Fine, then Compressor is at Fault and needs replacement.

    Buzzing and No Cooing issue's are really Common with this Model.

    Inspect the Relay and you would be able to Find the Culprit.

    http://www.ehow.com/how_4504012_test-ref...

    Let me know,if needed further assistance.

    Hope i helped you.

    Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!


  • taran_2005
    taran_2005 May 12, 2010

    Thanks for your response!!

    I am Sorry, but i was unable to see any of your Comments??

    If you want any Further help, let me know and i would be glad to Assist.

    Hope i helped you.

    Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!


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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

Hi.I would first recommend to clean the condenser coils, asap. I will post a complete step by step procedure that will help you through the cleansing process for your condenser coils.


The condenser coils dissipate heat. If dust and debris accumulate around the coils, your refrigerator may not be able to cool properly, it may run continuously or it may stop completely as a result of an overheated compressor. You should clean rear-mounted coils once a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Refrigerators are heavy, never tip one forward or backward. Never attempt to move a refrigerator without an assistant. Vacuum or brush the coils. If coils have a filmy build-up, use warm soapy water to clean them. Take care not to spill or drip water onto the components of the refrigerator.You should clean floor level coils at least twice a year. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning. Vacuum or brush the coils. Remove the grill from the front of the refrigerator and use a vacuum with a wand attachment to remove any dust and debris. The grill should snap off and on. Pull firmly toward you and possibly upward to remove the grill. If it does not come off with a modest effort, check for screws or retaining clips that may hold it in place.Now, if the cleaning of the condenser coils do not improve the functions of your unit, move on to the next area of concern.

Another area of concern will be the door seals. This is a easy way for the cold air to escape from your unit as well. this will cause the temperature to rise, and also cause the compressor to run, continuously. The seal should make smooth continuous contact with the refrigerator case. When the seal does not seal completely, warm air enters the appliance. This results in more frequently compressor operation and possibly the inability of the appliance to maintain proper temperature. To test the seal, use the dollar bill test. Place a a dollar bill or a piece of paper between the seal and the refrigerator and close the door. Now pull the paper out. You should feel tension as you pull. Retest along the entire door seals. Replace the seal if the test was unsuccessful.

Finally, if both the door seals and condenser coils are optimal, this will lead to a failed compressor start relay. It may be stuck in the on position. Use the procedure below to inspect the relay and compressor, properly.


I would recommend to check the relay first, then the compressor last to confirm total failure. If both devices test out ok, this will lead to a failed main PCB.

THE RELAY

The compressor relay starts the compressor. A fault relay can result in the compressor failing to cycle on. The relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. On some units. the relay may not be covered at all.(each model may vary). Beneath the terminal cover(if equipped), you will find the compressor relay, and the overload protector as well. The electrical terminals of the compressor motor are located here also. Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor, gently. Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. There are two types of relays you may encounter, wire coil and solid state. If the relay has an exposed wound wire coil it can be tested for continuity. Otherwise, the relay is of solid state design and requires specialized equipment for testing. Test the relay with a ohm(multimeter), for continuity. Set the meter to the ohms setting X1. With the relay upside down, place the probes into the terminals labeled "S" and "M"(the labeling may vary on each model). The meter should display a reading of zero ohms, indicating continuity (or if using a continuity tester, it should light up). With the probes still in place, turn the relay over. You should hear the click of the magnetic switch engaging. The meter should now display an ohm reading of infinity (or the tester should not light up). Turn the relay upside down again, place the probe on the "S" terminal and place it on the side terminal labeled "L". The meter should now display a reading of zero ohms (continuity). Turn the relay over and the reading should change to infinity. With the relay upside down place one probe on the "L" terminal and the other probe on terminal labeled "M". The meter should display a reading of zero ohms. Turn the relay over and the reading will stay the same, zero ohms. Now, if the relay fails these described tests, it should be replaced asap.

COMPRESSOR TEST PROCEDURE

The compressor is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. Generally the same proximity of the relay. The compressor motor can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip. The main testing points will be the actual terminal post that hold the relay, gently pull the relay of the terminal box on the side of the compressor, and use the relay holding probes for testing. Once the relay is removed, Place one probe on any terminal and then touch the other probe to each of the other two terminals. The multimeter should display a reading of zero ohms. Be sure to set your meter to 1X before beginning. Now move the first probe to a different terminal and test the other two terminals with the other probe. Finally, move the first probe to the last terminal and test each of the other terminals with the other probe. Every test should have continuity with the multimeter displaying zero ohms. If the compressor motor does not pass all of these tests, the compressor will require professional service. Now test the compressor for ground. With the multimeter still set to X1, touch one probe to bare metal on the compressor housing (it may be necessary to scratch away a little paint to expose the metal). Touch the other probe to each of the three terminals in turn. None of the terminals should have continuity; the multimeter should display a reading of infinity. If any of the grounding tests show continuity, the compressor will require professional service.




SIDE NOTE:

Be sure to inspect for proper air flow from the evaporator fan, through the damper assembly. If there is no airflow, while the compressor is running, this will lead to a failed evaporator fan motor. Start with the condensoer cleaning process.

Posted on May 11, 2010

  • 6 more comments 
  • dcash27 May 11, 2010

    the compressor is running but it's making a strange buzzing sound. Not sure if you got that. Also, every once in a while it'll will start making a strange knocking and clunking sound and then go back to a buzzing sound.

  • dcash27 May 11, 2010

    I'm not sure if you caught the fact the compressor motor is running but it's making a BUZZING sound, which is unusual. Also, every once in a while the motor will start making a knocking and clunking sound and then go back to buzzing.


  • dcash27 May 11, 2010

    are you getting my replies?

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 11, 2010

    Yes, please allow for proper response time, due to fluctuations within the systems performance. I totally understand your issues here. I have seen this many times. I understand that it is running, but that noise is a very strong indication of compressor seal failure, within the compressor assembly. Normally, this will occur if the compressor unit has overheated itself, due to a dirty set of condenser coils, which in return, will induce very abnormal run-times for the compressor motor. Use my compressor testing procedure to confirm.



    • NOTE_ make sure the compressor has not become loose or detached form the platform. If the compressor is detached, due to corroded mounting devices, this will cause noise, as well. i suspect compressor failure, due to failed seals in the compressor motor assembly.




  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 11, 2010

    Patient's is a virtue....

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 11, 2010

    Good luck:)

  • dcash27 May 12, 2010

    just called Sears. Yes, patience is a virtue but when I responded to you, there was no indication what so ever that my reply went through. That's why i sent it like three times. Fixya needs to Fix this!

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 12, 2010

    Its not an issue with my response time at all. I responded to you, immediately. There is a slight delay when messages are sent to an from the corresponding parties. During peak hours, this response time will be increased. That's why patients is needed when waiting for a response from an expert.

    I am confident in my solution that i sent to your page. Its not an issue at all.


    Have great day or night:)


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