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GE PSS26P FREEZER WORKS FINE REFRIG SIDE SET AT 37 STAYS AT 45 DEGREES FAN DOES NOT SEEM TO BE WORKING, FAN WAS MAKING NOISE DOESN NOW THOUGH

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The evaporator fan in the freezer may have been making noise because it was hitting ice buildup on the evaporator coil and the ice could now have it completely blocked or the fan could have been going bad and is now stopped and needs to be replaced. A good fan will spin freely when you spin it by hand. If it's ice buildup, it's caused by automatic defrost failure which is described below.

The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located on the back. Part 801 in this diagram. http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5234117&diagram_id=25756725#d25756725

This diagram shows your freezer parts where the fan and evaporator coil and defrost heater and defrost thermostat are located.

Posted on May 11, 2010

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