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The stator is on the left side of the bike while you are sitting on it.
It is underneath the primary cover, the largest one on that side. It can be reached by removing the primary cover, primary chain, clutch basket and the sprocket on the end of the crankshaft. I myself would not tackle a job like this at home. Gaskets are another issue on reassembly. The stator is a coil like winding of copper wire around which rotates a heavy round metal flywheel type piece that has magnets afixed inside of it, as the flywheel rotates around the stator, it creates the electricity, just like a hydroelectric generator you have seen on TV only on a smaller scale.
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Ok, you failed to tell me what year and model we're talking about here so my information will be more generalized.
First, test the output of you charging system at the battery. The battery must be fully charged for this test. Make sure all connections are tight and clean. You'll need a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) to do the test. Connect the red meter lead to the positive post, the black lead to the negative post. Put the meter function switch in "DC VOLTS< 20 Volts or greater scale. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read 14.5-15.0 volts at the battery.
To test the stator, follow the wires from the regulator down to the engne case and where the connector where they plug in. Unplug the connector and inspect the metal contacts inside the engine case or connector on the stator side. Set you meter function switch to AC VOLTS> 25 Volts or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch each metal contact in the engine side of the connector with a test meter lead. You should read 25 volt AC or better.
If the stator test good, replace your regulator. make sure the ground is good on the regulator.
To check your charging system, first, you must have a fully charged battery in the bike. Start the bike up and using a DVOM (digital volt ohm meter) put the red lead on the positive post and the black lead on the negative post. Put the meter in DC Volts, 50 volt range. Idle the bike up a bit and you should read about 14.5 to 14.8 volts.
If you don't get anymore than 12.6 volts at the battery. Go to the left side of the engine and pull the connector for the stator at the front of the engine. Put your meter in AC volts, 50 volt range. Touch one meter lead to one pin and the other to the other pin. It makes no difference which lead goes where just don't allow the lead to touch the engine case. Your meter should read 25-35 Volts AC at this point. Notice the AC, not DC, voltage at the stator. Make sure your meter is in DC at the battery test and AC at the stator test. If you have less than 15 volts at the stator, your stator is bad. If the voltage is where it should be at the stator, you voltage regulator is probably bad.
as you know the stator charges the battery there is a wire that has a wire that looks like a snake that just ate rat it is called a diode it lets ac voltage change to dc voltage that charges the battery this diode only lets the voltage goe one way only disconect the connection and take a voltmeter put on dc volts put the red line the diode side the black to ground start the engine should have current going out
Have you checked the output of the stator? When the bike is running above idle - say 3000 rpm's, you should see a voltage across the battery terminals of at least 14.1 volts.
If the stator is good, then I would next look at the amount of lights or accessories installed.
Also, if I remember correctly, the early 80's GL's were notorious for having a problem with the 3 yellow wires coming from the stator. The plastic connector would eventually corrode and either kill the stator or burn completely.
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