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Hydraulic fluid in crankcase of 2020. - John Deere 420,1020,2010,2020,2510,2520 Tractor Float

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SOURCE: I have a 1968?? 2020 john deere. The hydraulic

make shure none of your hydrolic cylenders are extended and fill it up till you can stick you finger in there and it barley touches if you do this when cylenders are extended you will over fill it.

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

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Wat hydraulic fluid do i use for my ford tractor 6700 modelEC215 serial number B364256

First, whatever you buy be sure it is Transmission/hydraulic fluid not just hydraulic oil. The hydraulic and trans oil are the same oil. John Deere trans fluid will work, Case IH. Tractor supply has a fluid that works good, Traveller Trans/Hydraulic Renew. It is for older tractors.

Nov 14, 2016 | Ford Garden

1 Answer

When I shift gears, even from nuteral to first the gears make a hard clunk when they come together. Is this a clutch disk problem??

It could be a clutch problem, if you're disengaging the clutch and holding it for several seconds prior to attempting to shift gears. The gear clusters are heavy enough that, even in an engine oil bath, they'll spin for several seconds after the clutch has been disengaged. Within 10-15 seconds, however, they should be nearly stationary, if the clutch is functioning properly. It can also be aggravated by low viscosity oil in the crankcase; check to make sure that the viscosity of the oil is at least 40W (10W-40, 20W40); sometimes, toward the end of the oil's service life, it can suffer a significant loss in viscosity. If keeping the clutch disengaged longer doesn't minimize the grinding, flush the clutch hydraulic line; if that doesn't work, the clutch assembly will have to be removed and examined for bent or buckled diaphragm spring, pressure plate or clutch disks.

To flush the clutch hydraulic line, remove the left (shift lever side) rear cylinder cover (3 cap screws, 8mm Allen). Beneath the cover at the bottom, you'll see a neoprene "trapdoor"; that covers the drain fitting for the hydraulic clutch assembly. Loosen the fitting, slide a flexible tube over the fitting to route the old fluid to a pan or jar (you really DON'T want the old hydraulic fluid floating around under the cover), and pump the clutch lever, periodically refilling the reservoir on the handlebars, until the fluid coming out the drain is clear and free of bubbles. Remove the flexible tubing, tighten the drain fitting, and recheck clutch operation and gear noise when shifting.

If flushing the clutch hydraulic line does not quiet shifts, I would have to recommend purchase of any one of a number of good maintenance manuals to facilitate removing and inspecting the clutch "pack", the illustrations make a very difficult-to-read procedure quite straightforward.

Aug 17, 2010 | 2004 Yamaha Royal Star Venture

1 Answer

What type of fluid do I use to refill the clutch?

If you're talking about the hydraulic clutch actuator, use DOT 3 brake fluid. If you are referring to the fluid that goes in the crankcase, use a high quality motor oil of the correct viscosity for the ambient temperature in your area.

Mar 07, 2010 | 1987 Honda VF 750 C Super magna

2 Answers

The clutch slips at high rpm's and when I barely touch the lever. Is there an adjustment on this hydraulic?

There are NO adjustments in the clutch hydraulic system. Except for checking the engine oil level and type, the middle gear case cover, shift lever assembly, and left crankcase cover will have to be removed, and the clutch release cylinder will have to be examined. If the clutch cylinder is operating properly, the right-side exhaust system, the horn and the clutch cover will have to be removed and the clutch examined. If you intend to perform the repair, I would suggest that you buy a service manual from Yamaha , Clymer or Haynes for specific instructions.

When the problem is resolved and you're refilling the crankcase with oil, AVOID ANY OIL THAT SAYS ENERGY-CONSERVING (you'll see a seal on the bottle), that type of oil has a tendency to make the clutch slip.

Feb 28, 2010 | 1996 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A

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Leaking brake fluid now my clutch not working !!! help

Are you sure it was brake fluid leaking? If you were leaking transmission fluid then that could cause some of the mechanical workings to stall, in turn causing the clutch to freeze-up. The other (more likely) problem is that you were leaking hydraulic fluid for the hydraulic clutch.

It sounds like you will probably have a hydraulic clutch, and fluid was leaking. If you accidentally topped-up the hydraulic fluid for the clutch with brake fluid, that would be an interesting scenario... not sure how the mis-match would work out. If the hydraulic clutch fluid is simply low, you can flush it out, put new fluid in there and get it to a dealer to repair the clutch

Nov 19, 2009 | 2002 Toyota RAV4

3 Answers

Three point hitch on 2020 Jogn Deere Tractor will not raise.

The three point hitch raises with hydraulic pressure. When the hitch will not raise the first thing to check is the hydraulic fluid level. If it is low add hydraulic fluid to the proper level as stated in the owner manual.

Jun 20, 2009 | John Deere 420,1020,2010,2020,2510,2520...

1 Answer

I have a 1968?? 2020 john deere. The hydraulic

make shure none of your hydrolic cylenders are extended and fill it up till you can stick you finger in there and it barley touches if you do this when cylenders are extended you will over fill it.

Jun 04, 2009 | John Deere 420,1020,2010,2020,2510,2520...

1 Answer

How to change clutch slave cylinder . any hidden surprises when removing

None that I can think of: the push rod it activates will stay in place unless you extract it. you will need to remove the shift pedal assembly, the middle gear cover and the left-side crankcase cover to get to it, but once those are out of the way, the slave cylinder is readily accessible. Remember to change both copper washers at the clutch hydraulic cable junction, reusing the old ones are sure to cause, at the very least, a slow hydraulic (DOT 4 brake fluid) leak.

Jun 04, 2009 | 1996 Yamaha Royal Star XVZ 1300 A

1 Answer

I have to let my clutch out far

Lets assume you have the hydraulic clutch. Now let's start by bleeding the clutch.
  • Put the handlebars in position to have the hydraulic cylinder as level as possible. Remove the reservoir cover and diaphragm. Don't let clutch fluid get on plastic or painted parts. The finish will be damaged. Add fluid to the line level on master cylinder casing.
  • Remove left rear crankcase cover.
  • Remove cap from the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder Put a box end wrench on the bleed valve then put a clear hose on the nipple and immerse the end of the hose in clean brake fluid.
  • Pump the clutch lever at moderate speed to eliminate air through the master cylinder. Tap the cylinder to release air clinging to the line. Do this until no more bubbles rise from the cylinder.
  • Now pump the lever several times and hold the lever in. Crack open the bleed valve and let fluid and air bubbles escape into the clear hose . Close the bleeder then release the lever slowly. Wait a few seconds then repeat the process until no more bubbles are coming from the bleeder. Keep an eye on the reservoir and add fluid as needed.
  • Remove the clear hose and put all parts back into position.
Let me know if this fixed the problem. If not we will go further.

Apr 17, 2009 | 1994 Honda VT 1100 C Shadow

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