Question about Kenmore 62232 / 62234 / 62239 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator

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Kenmore Bottom Freezer Works; No Cooling In Main Refrigerator

Kenmore Model # 596.73212200

Freezer works fine. Main Refrigerator not cooling. Damper is wide open. Damper drove towards closed when tested with ice cube on little coil on damper control. no air flow at all coming through damper.

Found condenser and evaporator very dirty with dust. Vacuumed as best as I could with out turning fridge completely over.

What supplies airflow to refrigerator section? A fan? There is a fan to the left of the compressor (seen from rear) that is operating. I'm assuming that is to blow air across evaporator. Is there another one?

Thanks!

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  • Master
  • 6,784 Answers

HI. There are two fans in this unit. The one you are referring to from behind the unit will be the condenser fan. The other fan will be the evaporator fan. This is responsible for the air flow throughout the freezer and refrigerator sections. If this unit is not moving air, and the damper is wide open, the evaporator fan will be the culprit. The evaporator motor and fan assembly can be located just behind the inside freezer panel. Once he freezer concealment panel is removed, the evaporator and fan assembly can be accessed for thorough inspection.

Click here to view a exploded diagram of the evaporator fan blade and motor assembly. The actual fan blade can b removed form the motor. If you notice fan blade issues, kindly replace it. If the fan blades are ok, simply remove the fan blade, an replace the evaporator fan motor.

The fan motor will be labeled #18 on the diagram provide. The motor bracket is labeled #19. The evaporator assembly concealment panel is labeled #4 on the diagram..

Posted on May 11, 2010

  • 2 more comments 
  • stoutflier May 11, 2010

    Localwonder:

    Thank you for the reply!

    I did remove the panel exposing the evaporator and found it and everything nearby a complete block of ice. The fan was not covered in ice. I melted the ice and then plugged in the cord and lo and behold the fan operated and there is positive airflow coming through the damper on the fridge side.

    Now, what caused it in the 1st place? there appears to be an evaporator heater that wraps around the sides and bottom of the evaporator. How can I test the integrity of that? Also, what is the round apperattus that the orange wire is coming out of in this photo? The other end is one end of the evap heater. This is looking at top right of evaporator.



    There seems to be some kind of plug in to the left. Is that some sort of diagnostic port?



    Thanks for your help!



  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 11, 2010

    Ok, there are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary from unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with a defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will be the culprit. Your unit will be equipped with a standard defrost timer mechanism.


    There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

    The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

    Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements, I cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced. If the element test proves that the element is functional, the defrost timer will be the culprit.



    Concerning the cylindrical device you are referring to:

    This will be the monitoring thermostat for the evaporator core. This is wired directly into the heater assembly, and can be tested for proper continuity as well.


  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 11, 2010

    The extra peripheral connector is simply an auxiliary input device.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters May 11, 2010


    • Additionally, it is standard practice to replace the thermostat and defrost timer if the heater proves to be functional. If the heater assembly fails the electrical testing procedure listed above, simply replace the heater.


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