Increased drying time; removal of lint behind tumbler ???
I thoroughly cleaned all the lint from the door, beneath the lint basket, and I noticed when I inspected the inside of the tumbler drum, that there seems to be an accumulation of lint at the bottom behind the holes at the back of the tumbler. There must be a way to empty this. Please let me know ASAP
Re: Increased drying time; removal of lint behind tumbler...
I have a top loading Kenmore High capacity dryer that is over 10 years old, it has been working very well, unfortunately when cleaning the lint filter my wife dropped a piece of paper down the lint duct hole. The paper evidently fell to the bottom of the lint duct. I am unable to reach the paper from the top of the dryer where the lint filter is inserted.The dryer now makes a grinding type noise when it is turned on. Can you tell me how to reach the paper and remove it
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you can't clean lint filter. It has a built in filter that cleans itself. It is under the inner basket. If you have to, than remove the agitator and inner basket. It is attached to basket on bottom. No need to clean though
The 5500 Neptune washer and all predecessors are accessed from the front. by removing the 2 hinge screws, and the opposite 2 screws. The front goal post panel can then be removed, then the door can be lifted off. Maytag made a 1 piece tub and a removable front tub cover. Once the tub cover is removed by pulling all the tension clips you can remove the stainless spin basket one of 2 ways, either remove all 3 of the basket tumblers, then the 3 basket bolts, then the basket can be removed leaving the spinner support behind, or you can remove the rear panel, then the main pulley, then tap out shaft with a 2X4, this will remove the basket and spinner support together. You have not described the nature of your leak. Pleazer Appliance...
Good Morning David, thank you for allowing me to assist you!
I understand your dryer is experiencing lack of heat. There are several factors that could cause this; some of which you can check prior to scheduling a professional.
Have you checked your lint filter recently? I ask because if a lint filter is full of lint it will restrict airflow and lengthen dry times. To keep your dryer working correctly, clean out the lint folder area after each and every use. Check the lint filter for any buildup of fabric softener that will also restrict airflow and wash with soapy water to clean. If the filter is damaged then it will need to be replaced.
Additionally to checking the lint trap area, please investigate the ventilation (duct work) system connecting to your dryer. Often we forget to clean this duct work therefore over time debris can restrict air flow. Check the air flow by disconnecting the accordion-like duct work from the dryer appliance. Run a drying cycle, with clothes inside the unit, but keeping the duct work disconnected. If you notice any improvement, then the ventilation duct work (often going through your floor or side wall) will need to be thoroughly cleaned. Also make sure you do not have multiple turns or kinks in the duct work. The more curves or turns this duct system has to take to exit the air outside, the more restricted it can get. The more restriction you experience the more time it will take the unit to dry.
Do you notice any unusual rumbling or rubbing noise when in use? This could indicate a faulty blower wheel. A blower wheel that is not firmly attached to the motor can slip and therefore not move air fast enough to properly dry clothes or even reduce airflow to the point where the high limit thermostat (a fuse like component) may trip and turn off the heat circuit. A loose blower wheel will usually make a rumbling noise that is easily noticed. Inspecting the blower wheel is usually a task for a professional considering you must take apart most of your appliance to make sure it is tight to the motor shaft.
If you have a gas dryer, gas valves could also cause you an issue. Defective gas valves can create a symptom of taking too long to dry if they are intermittent and require professional attention. A professional is needed to check for proper flame ignition for a complete drying cycle to determine if this may be your point of concern.
On many dryers you will find "drum seals" in between the unit's drum and the front door. The drum seals are used to prevent excess air from entering the dryer drum and act as a cushion between the drum and the front and rear access. The drum seals are made up of a felt like material. If the seal is torn, or is worn, then clothing can become stuck in the gap when the drum is turning. This can produce a scraping or thumping noise and the clothes can also be ripped and/or have black marks on them. This will also affect your drying time tremendously.
While you are checking the drum seals please check the door of your dryer as well. When the door is closed in gas and electric dryers the door seal helps to keep cooler air from entering the drum. Keeping the correct temperature at all times inside the dryer ensures that the clothes will dry efficiently. If clothes are not drying then inspect the door seal for signs that it may be worn or damaged.
If none of the above solutions prove to be successful, it would be advisable to contact an experiencing repair tech to assist further.
So is this a Washing machine or a Dryer? It is hard to tell with these front loaders. If it is a Washing machine it is not suppose to dry.
If it is a Washer: Do you mean it is not spinning the close to squeeze most of the water out before you put them in the dryer?
If it is a Dryer: There is usually a lint trap just inside the door. However, if that is clean then you could have lint building up in the hose behind the dryer where it is supposed to vent outside. Sometimes that hose gets squashed between the dryer and the wall and doesn't allow the lint to move freely out of the tube. You can remove it and clean it out with your vacuum cleaner.
IMPORTANT: Read thoroughly. DO NOT add detergent or other laundry products to this cycle. 1.Remove all items from the washer. 2.Open the dispenser drawer and 2/3 cup (160 mL) of liquid chlorine bleach to the bleach compartment. DO NOT use more than 2/3 cup (160mL) of bleach per cycle as this will lead to product damage. 3.Close the washer door and dispenser drawer. 4.Select the Clean Washer cycle or a full wash cotton 104 F wash (40 C). DO NOT use any higher temperature as this will cause unnecessary fumes 5.Press Start and allow cycle to complete. 6.If the bad odour persists, repeat the procedure 1 or 2 more times. This may be necessary if this is the first time you have run this cycle. 7.After the cycle is complete, leave the door open slightly to allow ventilation and drying of the washer interior. 8.Repeat the cleaning procedure monthly. To maintain the washer freshness: 1.Use only HE High Efficiency detergent. 2.Leave the door open after each cycle to for better ventilation and drying of the washer interior. 3.Use warm / hot water in your machine unless the fabric you are washing requires cold. 4.Use the correct amount of fabric softener. 5.If your laundry room is damp, use a dehumidifier. 6.Clean the door seal of visible residue.
Apr 22, 2010 My dryer would not dry the clothes either. the heating element would only come on once then nothing. The high limit thermostat was bad. Pull the electrical plug. Remove the top cover and the thermostat has an orange/black wire to it. It is hard to get to the screws but I was able. Then I found the element would cycle many times but not stay on long enough to dry the clothes thoroughly - I found the culprit - the motor driven fan creats a suctionin the drum and the hot air from the rear coil is pulled thru the drum, thru the front door (via the holes in the door's inner face) down thru the lint screen, thru the outer fan housing and out the exhaust. My problem was that the door's cardboard backing had seperated and along with the trapped lint clogged the door's holes and restricted the air flow. I took the door off, seperated the 2 halves, removed the cardboard and cleaned the lint out. The dryer is now working like new. Summary: The high limit thermostat was bad probably from cycling so much and the air flow diminished slowly over time to the point I did not notice until the clothes just wouldn't dry.
Check the air flow first.
Hope this helps
if vent is clean, did you push it too far back afterward and flatten vent hose? also blower fan may be loose on motor shaft resulting in slower rpm also may be excess lint in blower housing ..washer suspect lower bearing although not sure what a stampeding herd of elephants would sound like ..if noise is on spin if during agitation suspect transmission gears ..both will require new transmission ..if noise is more of a knocking noise possible broken bolt in basket trunion block remove agitator to ck
You have a clog somewhere in the venting. Anywhere between the lint screen and the outside of the house. Use a vaccum with a crevice tool to reach behind the lint screen. Also check the flaps on the outside of the house. You can also access the machine end of the vent pipe by removing the two Phillips screws on the angled panel just below the dryer door. If you feel you need to take apart the machine further to clean behind the lint screen, write back. It's very tricky, and will take some time, but I can walk you through it.
Dryer / drying troubles - DIY repairs WD-12320RD /
WM3431H. It was difficult to find suitable solutions so I shall share
my experiences here. I live in Malaysia and purchased the LG
washer-dryer model WD-12320RD TROMM (240V) in January 2006. WD-12320RD
should be similar to WM3431H, just compare and verity features
available at LG's Singapore website http://sg.lge.com. However,
WD-12320RD model is no longer available locally. Both model's features
are essentially the same since I relied on the WM3431H service manual
downloaded from http://18.104.22.168/SubPages/DA_Laundry.htm for my
Fixing the machine would require relevant skills and plenty of
common sense. Do this at your own risk and I am not responsible for
Trouble date: January 2006
Symptoms: Damp clothes. Steam present when the door was opened and the door was also wet.
Solutions attempted: New washer-dryer drying under “Very” (More)
didn’t worked. Machine was still under warranty and LG repairman was
quick to respond and helpful. Diagnosed the problem to be a faulty PWB
Assembly (main). Replaced PWB Assembly with a new version i.e. without
“Cd” (cool down) feature. Machine worked as it should and clothes were
dry even under “Cupboard” (Normal) mode.
Trouble date: March 2008
Symptoms: Similar to January 2006. Problem persisted, even after running drying cycle twice.
Solutions attempted: Dryer under “Very” (More) didn’t worked. First
diagnosis, faulty Heater Assembly and Motor Assembly (Fan) located in
dryer Duct (Inlet). Replaced the Thermostat Assembly, the Fan and also
thoroughly cleaned the Duct Assembly (condensing). It was full of lint
but no hairs, etc. Problem persisted.
Tried “Time” drying setting at 2h 30m and the drying worked a little better but the clothes were still slightly damp.
Tried Cupboard again and this time I observed the display was reduced
to 10m or 6m after only ½h passed. Ran the cycle again but also used a
separate kitchen timer as a reference control by setting both timers at
2h 30m. Confirmed the drying cycle ended abruptly in about 45m while
the kitchen timer was still running.
Tried “Low Temp” mode and the drying cycle lasted between 3½h and
4h. During the drying cycle, time display would stay frozen at 6m when
the actual time passed was more than 1h. Once completed, the clothes
were dry but some steam was still present. The door was dry too.
Replaced the PWB Assembly and dryer worked again. Clothes were dry as toast.
Symptoms: Immediately after drying cycle, damp clothes, door is wet and steam present.
Recommended action: Try all drying modes, observe behaviour compare
with the above. Use a separate timer as reference to confirm drying
cycle ended abruptly. During cycle also observe whirring sound to be
sure that the dryer fan motor was running and the top right hand side
of the machine felt warm because of the heater. Thoroughly clean the
Duct Assembly (condensing).
Tips on cleaning Duct Assembly: Unplug power cord and ensure machine is cool.
Step 1 - (note: for this step, very little guidance was found in
manual) remove back panel to access the rubber bellows connecting the
Duct Assembly to the tub. It should be located at the lower left side.
Before removing the bellows, line the base with some towels in case
Duct was flooded. Wash bellows thoroughly. Remove any other lint or
visible obstructions from the Duct and tub openings. Re-attach and
Step 2 - remove the Heater Assembly and Fan covers to expose the
heating element. Scrub the entire inside walls with moist toothbrush.
Extend the handle if required. Don't use sharp objects to clean the
Duct. It would be easier to remove lint if the inside walls were
moisten with water using a manual spray pump. Exercise extreme care and
do not wet other parts of the machine. Remove the loose lint and rinse
entire area carefully using cups of water and all the remaining lint
would flow down the Duct into the tub and later, exit through the drain
hose. If the Duct is blocked, the water may fill up the Duct. Not to
worry, try removing the obstruction (likely to be lint or hair) with a
suitable tool, probably a stiff rod with a blunt, L-shaped end.
Finally, clean by rinsing with water and dry the covers and Fan before
re-assembling all the parts. Repeat Step 1 if necessary.
Recommended solution: If symptoms persist, most likely the PWB
Assembly has conked out, even if it was a new machine as in my case and
it appears to be so for many users as well.
User tips for best performance: Maximum load by volume, clothes should
not exceed 70% of tub. When drying efficiency is affected, cleaning
maintenance is required.
I HAVE A FRIGIDAIRE AFFINITY DRYER (AEQ6000CE32). WHENEVER I PUT THE CLOTHES IN IT JUST SPINS FOR 10 TO 15 MINUTES AND SHUTS OFF BEFORE THE ALLOTTED TIME. THERE IS NO HEAT IN THE DRYER. ANY SLOUTIONS?