Question about Roper REX4634KQ Electric Dryer

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Dry does not heat up

We moved the dryer from our house to our son's house and it runs now but does not heat up

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If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions. I'm assuming this is a Whirlpool manufactured Electric Dryer (Roper), because of the illustration you posted the question under. I hope you find this information is helpful.

NOTE: If this an older dryer, some of the heating components can become fragile over years of use. Moving it from one residence to another can cause them to break. In particular, the heating element coil. In addition, if you removed the power cord to the dryer, make sure you have connected it correctly. The following link explains how the power cord should be installed:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3575913-installing_a_220_vac_appliance_cord


If you would like some added advice that can help you in the future, Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that you can to help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.

Posted on May 11, 2010

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When an LG dryer is functioning normally---the time required to dry laundry is determined by the *Sensor* located on the drum side of the lint filter housing and by the main control board.
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Setting the DRY LEVEL selector to *Very Dry* will solve most dryability issues. In homes with abnormally long vents--even the longer run time in the *Very Dry* setting is usually not sufficient to dry laundry loads.
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If a second cycle was started---only the amount of time that is needed to dry laundry will be used before dropping to 6 minutes and then the cycle will end with dry laundry.
*****************************************

LG gas dryers are more sensitive to venting length and air flow resistance. The gas burner can cause a rapid increase in temperature compared to an electric burner.
Rapid temperature rise in a gas dryer leads to premature burner shutdown (longer time required to dry laundry).
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The dryer has an auto dry feature which never fully dries the clothes so we wind up manually setting the dry time to an hour
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LG gas dryers are VERY temperamental in long vent set-ups. If fabric softener sheets are used in the dryer--clean the two stainless steel strips of metal on the lint filter housing with a SCOTCHBRITE PAD--scrub back & forth several times to remove the waxy residue from the fabric softener sheets. Most,if not all manufacturers do *not* recommend using sheets in dryers that have a moisture sensor (electrodes).
However--using a SCOTCHBRITE pad keeps the wax off those sensors which can be seen if looking *into* the dryer drum and at the lint filter housing.
If only *liquid* fabric softener is used in the washer--clean the dryer sensors once a month. Liquid softener also contains wax which can slowly accumulate on the dryer sensors from the laundry washed in the washer.

LG DRYER SERVICE MANUAL


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The Thermal fuse is a small plastic looking component mounted on the blower fan housing with 2 wires attached to it. The other component that you may have on the blower fan housing is the operating (or bias) thermostat. It usually has 4 wires attached to it. With the dryer UNPLUGGED, you can disconnect the wires on the Thermal Fuse and take a resistance reading. It should read a short (0 ohms) if good. If bad, this reading will change when the component gets hot. The way I isolated my fault was to run the dryer until it failed, then took a quick resistance reading.

Let me know if you have any questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

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