Question about LG DLG5988 Stainless Steel Gas Dryer
After drying cycle the clothes are still wet. all electronic part functions well and seems like there is a little heat, but not enough to finish drying
You may need to adjust the air flow on your dryer vent.
When an LG dryer is functioning normally---the time required to dry laundry is determined by the *Sensor* located on the drum side of the lint filter housing and by the main control board.
When laundry is near dry--any Time Remaining on the control panel that is *not* needed will be eliminated---except for the last 6 minutes.
The final 6 minutes of any LG automatic cycle is for cooling down the laundry before the dryer ends the cycle.
If a dryer *counts down* to the last 6 minutes but the laundry is still not dry--the computer will allow the dryer to run until the laundry has dried or defaults (not drying within the additional time allowed).
Dryer vents that are longer than 8 feet with more than (2) 90 degree turns--can affect drying performance.
Setting the DRY LEVEL selector to *Very Dry* will solve most dryability issues. In homes with abnormally long vents--even the longer run time in the *Very Dry* setting is usually not sufficient to dry laundry loads.
Reducing the length of the vent or starting a second cycle becomes necessary to fully dry the clothing.
If a second cycle was started---only the amount of time that is needed to dry laundry will be used before dropping to 6 minutes and then the cycle will end with dry laundry.
LG gas dryers are more sensitive to venting length and air flow resistance. The gas burner can cause a rapid increase in temperature compared to an electric burner.
Rapid temperature rise in a gas dryer leads to premature burner shutdown (longer time required to dry laundry).
The gradual temperature increase of an electric element is more "forgiving" in homes where the dryer venting is less than ideal.
The dryer has an auto dry feature which never fully dries the clothes so we wind up manually setting the dry time to an hour
LG gas dryers are VERY temperamental in long vent set-ups. If fabric softener sheets are used in the dryer--clean the two stainless steel strips of metal on the lint filter housing with a SCOTCHBRITE PAD--scrub back & forth several times to remove the waxy residue from the fabric softener sheets. Most,if not all manufacturers do *not* recommend using sheets in dryers that have a moisture sensor (electrodes).
However--using a SCOTCHBRITE pad keeps the wax off those sensors which can be seen if looking *into* the dryer drum and at the lint filter housing.
If only *liquid* fabric softener is used in the washer--clean the dryer sensors once a month. Liquid softener also contains wax which can slowly accumulate on the dryer sensors from the laundry washed in the washer.
LG DRYER SERVICE MANUAL
Posted on May 11, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
First off, unless you are using the manual dry (timed dry) option, the times listed are strickly an estimate. At the begining of a cycle, the dryer has no idea how big a load you have, how wet it is, and how good your vent is. In your situation, I would clean off the two silver colored moisture sensor bars, located just inside the drum, by the right side of the lint filter area. They are curved, about 5 inches long, and about an inch apart. If you use fabric softener sheets, they can aquire a waxy build up, which inhibits them from detecting that the clothes are still too wet.
Posted on Aug 27, 2009
Please ensure that the venting from the dryer to the outside of the house is clean and free of lint.
Ensure the venting behind the dryer is not kinked.
Long time to dry issues are usually caused by restricted venting to the outside.
Since you have heat this may solve the problem.
Posted on Jan 16, 2010
SOURCE: I have a LG Tromm
ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. In this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Sounds like your problem may be with the heating coil. Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape or with an ohm meter to test the thermostat/thermistor. (Should have/show continuity)
If the coil heats up then replace the thermostat/thermistor.
(Thermal fuse.If it overheats the dryer will not operate. It's located on the blower housing. It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat. You can test it with an Ohm meter or continuity checker, if no continuity, replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For further instructions on how to replace the element go to the following website:
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Posted on Oct 03, 2010
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