Question about Coleman Powermate Powermate 5000W Generator

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I have a old Coleman powermate Model PC 54 5000 I have no AC Power. I have checked the rotor and stator for continuity in the windings, no problem. I have tried exciting the brushes, got a spark, but still no po AC. I tested for continuity in the rotor by testing from the shaft, to the rings, again no problem. What about the condenser, or diodes? How do you checks these?

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How did you put exciting voltage to brushes? Plus to plus, minus to minus or no mater? 
The condenser can be checked by a capacitance meter or an Ohm meter.
Diodes also by a diode test with a multimeter. Reverse should be infinity, forward 0.5 - 0.7 V.

Posted on Jun 08, 2010


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This shows the rotor as obsolete and I'm guessing the stator would be too. Stators are in the $200-300 price range. Probably better to just buy an new generator. Jack's Small Engine shows some stators but not your P#.

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You will need to check the resisitance of the stator and rotor windings, and also each rotor/ring to ground (IE rotor shaft) All tests to ground should be 0 M ohms, stators vary but typically around 1ohm or so, and rotors approx 20-30ohms

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The stator is the outside part of the generator with the windings. The rotor is the part that turns inside the stator.

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Disconnect the leads going to the brushes, and check for continuity (resistance) of the field winding. You should be able to measure *something* on the order of a few ohms. If you have resistance, then check each brush contact to the shaft that the field winding is on. There should not be any resistance at all, if there is, you have a shorted field winding and will need to be replaced.

Check the resistance of the stator winding next, make sure that nothing is connected to the generator, disconnect the stator wires if you are able (label them!). Check for resistance between the leads (2 wires for a 2 pole, 4 wires for a 4 pole). If there is no resistance, then the stator is open, and will need to be replaced. Also check for resistance from each wire to the frame of the alternator, there should not be any resistance here (indicating a shorted stator). If there is, then you have a shorted stator, and will need to have it replaced.

Replacement is likely to be impractical, probably cheaper to buy another generator with the same engine and keep the old engine as a spare. Still, contact an automotive starter / alternator shop for prices.

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Make sure it is not the brush set.
There must be continuity from one slip ring to another.
If not, but rotor doesn't look burnt - check points where rotor wire is soldered to slip rings, or clear contact point on each side of wire and check continuity there, past slip rings and brushes. Big chance that wire came loose from slip ring.
Had such problem on my Champiion 3500
evern if burnt - rotor is easy to rewind at home, unlike stator.

Unless your model is Inverter type - there is AVR module.
But, unless your rotor has continuity - don't bother going further.

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there can be many reasons. need more info:
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measure output voltage - anything?
take back cover off generator itself, measure continuity of stator and rotor, and visually inspect windings. You'll find AVR module there too, it may be the reason.

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actually, it sounds like the diodes are blown. Check our diodes.

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The same goes for the rotor as well. The resistance measurements will not be the same for each one though.

Unfortunately, Powermate is out of business, and service information is scarce.

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Get on their website and get the wiring diagrams. They should also have the resistances of the windings. Checking these resistances, may indicate a stator problem. Give the model number and it will be easier to help.

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If the generator hasn't been used for awhile the rotor may have lost it's magnetism. All you need is to re-excite it. There are several websites that explain how to do this. It's a good place to start.

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