Question about Whirlpool ED5VHGXM Side by Side Refrigerator

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Whirlpool fridge, ED5RHGXMQOO Side by Side 2003 model. Fridge will cool than shut off for periods of time, resulting in freezer and food defrosting. Will than kick back on. Tried cleaning coils, no effect, any suggestions?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

fridgetech
  • 473 Answers

SOURCE: fridge not cooling

Most of the time on a whirlpool the problem is the relay on the compressor sometimes called the start device. I would replace that first. If you need help finding the part let me know. I will need the complete model # from the sticker inside the fridge section. You can look it up with diagrams at http://www3.sears.com/.

Posted on Nov 09, 2007

  • 1462 Answers

SOURCE: Overflowing drip pan under the fridge

for reallybsq
problem could be door seals not sealing completely and hence excessive ice formed on evaporator and excess water when it melts. however, i have found this problem many times with large larder fridges and really found no cure.

for guest.
towards the bottom of the back wall, there is a gulley with a drain hole in the middle. this drain is blocked. clear it with something flexible and make sure water flows away freely

Posted on Sep 07, 2008

huuum
  • 750 Answers

SOURCE: fridge/freezer not cool.

Hello
Welcome to fixya.
I'm Huuum and happy to assist you,

I believe your problem is an old thermostat or compressor !
How old is it?

My advice is do not put good money into bad!
A new fridge will pay for itself in a few years by using a lot less electricity!

Here is an interesting report I just read!

Repair or replace?

When to pull the plug on your old refrigerator

It nearly always makes sense to undertake simple do-it-yourself repairs,
such as replacing a gasket on a refrigerator or a freezer.

Typically, you'll also find a troubleshooting section for more-serious problems
in the owner's manual.

Should you pay for a repair or buy a new model?
The answer depends mostly on the age of your refrigerator,
how much you bought it for,and the cost of the repair.

Follow these guidelines:

When a repair makes sense.

If your refrigerator is under warranty or less than four years old (three years for top-freezers),
paying for a repair makes sense.
Note that refrigerators under warranty might require service from a factory-authorized technician;
readers have found them on a par with independent repairers.

When a repair might be a wise choice.

If your refrigerator is out of warranty and is four to seven years old,
it might make sense to pay for a repair. Customers generally pay $100 to $200 for a repair.
But you might want to buy a new model even at this stage,
given that today's models are quieter and have added features.
Higher energy efficiency is another plus: Energy Star-qualified models made after April 28, 2008,
are 43 percent more efficient than conventional models built before 2001 and 56 percent
more efficient than those built before 1993.

When it pays to replace.

The repair costs more than half the price of a comparable new refrigerator.
Data also shows that it doesn't pay to fix a less-expensive top-freezer refrigerator
six or more years old or a bottom-freezer or side-by-side eight or more years old.

Thanks to better recycling programs, less than 10 percent
of a refrigerator you replace is likely to end up in a landfill.
Thanks for giving me the opportunity to help!

Please remember to leave me a rating before you sign off!
Thank You, HUUUM

Posted on Sep 29, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: DEFROSTING/ WATER RUNNING ONTO FLOOR & INSIDE FRIDGE

Check to see if the run-off tube at the back is plugged.

I dont know how old the fridge is - but if it a couple years old check at the back or the fridge - there should be a tube running down the back of the fridge down into the bottom tray. This tube funnels water from the freezer (condensation, or water from the defrost) down onto the tray holding the compressor where it evaporates with help from the heat off the compressor. Sometimes this tube can get plugged up with some scum or mineral deposits, causing the built up water to drain from inside the fridge.

The tube shouldn't be too hard to remove and clean out with some hot water and pipe cleaners. Had the same issue on on a GE fridge last year.
Hope this helps!

Posted on Dec 30, 2008

jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: freezer not freezing food and fridge not staying cold enough

Check the compressor with a volt meter, if the compressor is getting proper voltage then check the relay. But this sounds like a problem with the compressor

Posted on Feb 12, 2009

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1 Answer

Back of freezer has frost and freezer wont cool to proper temp. icemaker etc also not working


Did you leave the freezer door open for a period of time while the refrigerator was running? Unplug and defrost the freezer manually with a hair dryer until all frost is removed inside and in back of the freezer. Reapply power and see if it will then cool/freeze properly. Let me know the results
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Hello,

When you say it not cooling on either side, do you mean both the freezer and fridge is not cooling? If yes, read further.

Let's start by diagnosing the freezer;

Fan problem is one of the most common reasons for the freezer to start failing, this is called "frost free failure." Ice can build up on the evaporator coils over time, and this ice builds up until it starts blocking the fan. The fan is responsible for circulating cold air throughout the freezer, so if it is blocked the freezer will not be able to freeze any food. You can usually check this by removing an access panel in the back of the freezer to inspect the coils. If ice is built up on the coils, a hairdryer can assist in defrosting them.

It's also possible that the fan is not running at all. If the fan is burned out or the motor isn't running, cold air can't circulate through the freezer and everything will melt. You can normally hear the fan motor switch on and off from time to time. Listen for it and if you can't hear it coming on for an extended period of time, the motor may need repair or replacement. The wires connecting to the fan may be the problem, preventing the fan from receiving electricity.

Several other problems could be keeping your freezer from freezing:

There could be leaks in one or several of the hoses in the refrigerator, which results in the cold air being lost instead of circulating properly throughout the fridge and freezer.

If you have the freezer so full that the cold air can't circulate, your food will thaw even though the freezer isn't malfunctioning. Always leave some space open in the freezer and try to not store food right up against the cooling vents.

The thermostat might have shorted out, which means the freezer can't accurately determine how cold it is. If this is the case, the refrigerator would probably not be working, either.

If your defrost drain becomes clogged, the water in the line will just refreeze over and over again, which could damage the lines as well as the fan. Always check the drain and make sure no sludge is building up in it if you have a self-defrosting refrigerator.

Always try to keep the freezer door closed for long periods of time. The more the door is opened, the more warm air is let in and cold air is released. If the door is opened frequently, the freezer could be warming faster than the fridge can cool it, which will thaw your food

As for the fridge, the same solution but for more details. If refrigerator is not cooling properly can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer goes bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.

1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

I hope the above helps.......

Good luck.

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can be from an obstruction (i.e. food or debris) or incomplete defrost. water forms around the drain during defrost cycle and ices up when cooling cycle comes on. defrost the drain and try installing a heat probe part#819043 made by whirlpool.its a metal rod that wraps around the heater and goes into the drain opening to prevent the drain from icing up. hope this helps.

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