Cdr3-1 top light fixture shorted out on right side
Bev air cdr3-1. the right end of the light fixture at the top of the case shorted out. sparks flew at the end connection between the bulb and the end fixture fitting. need to replace the end fittings - - i am told i will need ballast & two end fittings. the bev air cdr3-1 has three lights total. two of the lights are not permanent fixtures as they have cords, plugs, and can be moved around the case. the light fixture at top is the stationary light that is permanent to the machine.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
Sometimes they are in the overheade space above the cooler .. if they were inside then they would have to be HO ballasts because of the temperature .. sometimes they are in the moulding strip under the lamp itself.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
(391) Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT) Sensor
Inside the transmission behind side cover
Remove the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .
Important: Lock steering wheel in centered position with wheels straight ahead.
Remove the engine dress cover.
Remove the air cleaner intake duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Inlet Duct Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.1L or Air Cleaner Inlet Duct Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.8L.
Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 3.1L or Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Right Side and Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Left Side in Engine Mechanical - 3.8L.
Important: For supercharged engines, remove the throttle cable bracket.
Disconnect the shift cable bracket.
Remove the transaxle top side cover bolt.
Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture in Engine Mechanical - 3.1L or Engine Support Fixture in Engine Mechanical - 3.8L.
Disconnect the transmission wiring harness connector.
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Remove the left inner splash shield 3 push pins.
Loosen the wheel speed sensor harness from the 5 retainers at the cradle.
Remove the transmission support to cradle nuts only. Refer to Transmission Mount Replacement .
Raise the vehicle.
Remove the front splash shield 5 bolts.
Loosen the engine mount lower nuts. Refer to Engine Mount Bracket Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 3.1L or Engine Mount and Bracket Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 3.8L.
Remove the stabilizer bolts and reposition the stabilizer.
Remove the steering gear cradle bolts, then support gear before lowering cradle.
Support the left side of the frame with a jackstand.
Remove the left side frame bolts. DO NOT loosen the right front or the right rear frame bolts. Refer to Frame Replacement in Frame and Underbody.
Remove the left ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Position the drain pan under the transaxle.
Remove the left drive axle from the transaxle. Refer to Wheel Drive Shaft Replacement in Drive Axle.
Secure the drive axle to the steering knuckle/strut.
Adjust the jackstand to lower the left side of the frame until it hangs free. Remove jack stand.
Lower vehicle to access engine support fixture.
Lower the engine/transmission assembly with the engine support fixture to gain access to remaining side cover bolts.
If replacing the side cover, remove 4 engine mount bracket bolts.
Remove the harness retainer.
Raise vehicle to access side cover bolts.
Remove the case side cover bolts (56-58).
Remove the case side cover pan (53).
Remove the case side cover gasket (54).
Clean the case.
Clean the side cover gasket mating surfaces.
Disconnect the wiring harness assembly from the fluid temperature sensor (391).
Remove the fluid temperature sensor (391).
Install the fluid temperature sensor (391).
Connect the wiring harness assembly to the with fluid temperature sensor (391).
Install the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .
Important: It is recommended that transmission adaptive pressure (TAP) information be reset. Resetting the TAP values using a scan tool will erase all learned values in all cells. As a result, The ECM, PCM or TCM will need to relearn TAP values. Transmission performance may be affected as new TAP values are learned.
Reset the TAP values. Refer to Transmission Adaptive Functions .
Check motor reset on end of motor. Check cord for damage, insure insulation isn't cut. If you've reset your breaker for receptacle , make sure switch for compressor is off, plug in , then flip switch. See if motor attempts to run. If the problem repeats, motor could be shorted if cord is ok.
which engine option, you do know belts are not same on all engines right? fact.
2.7L V6 or bigger? IDN.
same on all cars. (answering in generic form do to above)
loosen the tension-er.
take off old
put back new
and if not a spring tension-er,set proper tension
the fSM cover all this.
why not read the manual, RTM?
here is one example (get the book, RTM or see alldata.com)
2008 xl7 engine
Remove the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement .
Install the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture .
Remove the engine mount strut bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Bracket Replacement - Right Side .
Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle .
Remove the engine splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement - Right Side .
Remove the right side engine mount bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Bracket Replacement - Right Side .
Lower the vehicle
Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise to release the drive belt tension.
Slide the drive belt off of the belt idler pulley (1).
Slowly release the drive belt tensioner.
Remove the drive belt from the accessory drive pulleys.
Install the drive belt to the crankshaft pulley, the tensioner and the generator.
Rotate the drive belt tensioner clockwise.
Install the drive belt to the idler pulley (1).
Important: Ensure the drive belt is properly aligned and seated into the grooves of the accessory drive pulleys.
Slowly release the drive belt tensioner.
Raise the vehicle.
Install the right side engine mount bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Bracket Replacement - Right Side .
Install the engine splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement - Right Side .
Lower the vehicle.
Install the engine mount strut bracket. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Bracket Replacement - Right Side .
Remove the engine support fixture. Refer to Engine Support Fixture .
Install the the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement .
Look at the wiring harness that runs to your tail light fixture. make sure that the harness connections have not loosened. check harness casing and bulb iixtures for breaks or corrosion... sounds like you have a short going on. with the light switch on, try wiggling the wiring where it goes into the fixture. if the light flickers at all while doing this you have a short going on in the fixture and it may need to be replaced.
I think you have a mixed or a connected wire problem. It looks like your breaker has tripped, doesn't need to spark... :) to trip. Is everything the same voltage ? Are you sure there's power at the switch mentioned.. Don't take anything for granted, respect electricity..
Hello Check the wite connections again with a flashlight and see if a wire end broke or is loose.Check the curcit breaker panel box to see if they are all on.How did you turn off power to work on the lamp?The problem is there ,some units require 220volts power.The unit will use the breaker for protection,Did something short out(sparks) at the fixture?
The problem you are having is that the magnetron that does the heating is shorting out and it needs to be replaced before it damages the inside covering of the microwave. www.mwoparts.com is a good source for magnetrons or other similar sites. To replace is easy enough. Taking the cover off with the power off, you will find it behind and on the top right side of the control panel. It is held in place normally with just 4 screws and two wires with terminals attached to it. So removing and replacing is pretty straightforward. Just be sure all the power is off until you have everything back in place. Good luck.
Probably not. It sounds like your broil element burned out. This just happens sometimes. If it is this , it will have visible chunks missing. Yes, It shorted with enough force to blow the main fuse. Unplug it as sometimes it can still be live and sparking when power is restored. Element is fairly cheap usually less than $50 and you can fix it yourself.
It sounds like the drainage for the defrost water is plugged or obstructed somehow. The ice build up is left over water that is freezing due to the fact that it has not been channeled out properly and when the cycle comes back on it freezes.
look for the collection pan underneath the fridge, access the tube ending to there, blow some air through it. Compressed works best if you have access to some. Also I would advise doing this after the unit has been off for a short while, sometimes the plug will be frozen, so give it time to melt just in case. When you blow on the tube there should be no back pressure, this will tell you if the plug has been removed.
I have the opposite problem - I can put it together as a toddler bed. The trick with that is that you put one of the long screws through both the hole at the SHORT end of the toddler bed side AND the metal flange from the springs into that end of the crib. The other long screw goes through the raised end of the toddler side into the end of the crib - where the child's head would be.
Is there supposed to be a plastic piece at the top of both ends of the crib on the side that does NOT go up and down? I can't seem to figure out how to put the crib side on.