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Re: how do i remove the old faucet?
Somewhere below that half metal circle thing should be a little nut that will loosen it. It is sometimes in a very hard to see or reach spot but it should be there. Hope this helps. Be careful not to break the lines.
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It is highly unlikely that the faucet failed; it's far more likely the feed tube between the water pipe and the faucet burst. If your faucets were installed 5 years ago, it's likely that they were installed with flexible feed tubes. Reach up under the faucet and unscrew the feed tube, then unscrew the feed tube from the cutoff valve on the water pipe. Take the burst tube to Home Depot and get a new one - it should cost $10 or so. (I would also recommend picking up a small tube of thread seal - it'll look like a travel tube of toothpaste and cost about $3.) Lightly coat the threads of the faucet connection with thread seal and screw the feed pipe onto the faucet as tight as you can with your hand. Do the same at the cutoff valve end with a wrench but do not over tighten. Once both ends are firmly connected, turn the cutoff valve on and check for leaks. If you find any, try to tighten the connections a bit. If you're uncomfortable with any of this, I'm sure there's a DIYer like me in your neighborhood who'd be glad to help out. It's easy and it's quick once you've done it a couple times. Good luck!
There is definitly a nut or nuts holding the faucet to the sink. It could be around the center shaft that goes through the sink, but most likely 2 small nuts that screw onto the 2 outer stubs. These are your hot and cold wated supplies. crawl underneath the cabinets and check. It might be difficult to get them off, but they do make a pipe wrench tool that has a rotating head that makes this easier
Shut off water supplyUnder Sink:·Unscrew brass connector for spayer hose
·Disconnect single water line to faucet bysqweezing lever on connector and
·Loosen two screws on faucet base washers thenunscrew the washers
on thebrass faucet shaft ( NOTE: Have someone hold the fauct so it does Not accidentlyfall in sink when the support washers are removed)
·Take faucet out of sink
·Unscrew brass collar at base and remove
·Remove Set Screw on lower body of faucet
·Pull out Brass Mechanism from faucet
·The Diverter is located in the Brass mechanism
·Remove the Washer
·Pull off the small top valve in center of theDiverter, if still there
·Using a large wood screw that fits/screw intothe exposed hole In the center of
The plasticdiverter, screw it in and pull out the remaing part of the old diverter
·Flush out Faucet to remove any remaining debrie
·Replace with new diverter and replace washer
·Grease all areas that where greased when mechanismwas removed
Remove & clean the faucet Airrater and replace only afterEVERYTHING has been
Completed soyou can flush the faucet out again into the sink, then replace.
Under the sink or pantry counter, follow the hot water pipe or hose that supplies the unit, to the hot water pipe that supplies the sink's taps, you should find a valve, make sure it is opened.
If it does have a cartridge, replacing it would only help it stop dripping out the faucet or from around the handle. A leak underneath is most likely to be a failure of the seal from the supply pipe to the faucet, from corrosion and/or hardening of the rubber seal that is part of the supply pipe connection. Shut off the supply. (Hopefully you have a shutoff valve under the sink.) And remove the supply pipe/tube/hose. This is very hard to do without a basin wrench. (All hardware stores have them, and they are pretty cheap.) Take the supply pipe to the hardware or home improvement store to select a replacement. Other than the material and construction of the pipe itself, and the length, there are only a couple of different fitting configurations.
You can help to isolate the problem by checking the flow through the angle stops under the sink. Best way to do this is to first have flexible hoses, most likely 3/8" by 1/2". These flexible hoses can easily replace rigid piping from the angle stops to the sink. Turn the angle stops off, then unscrew the hoses/piping from the under the faucet. Aim hose into bucket and turn angle stop back on. If flow is still strong, then replace faucet. If flow is weak, call a plumber.
That knocking noise is probably coming from your water line, and that happens when there is some kind of a ripple/wave effect when the water goes into your dishwasher (DW) thru the inlet/fill water valve. First turn your hot water valve off, underneath the sink coming from the wall and it usually is also going to your kitchen faucet. Then turn the electricity off by locating the breaker to the DW line and turning it off, or if it is plugged in an outlet under your sink, just unplug it. Then take the kick toe panel (panel with 2 or 4, 1/4" or philips screws) from the bottom of the dishwasher. You will then see the water hose, or could be a copper pipe, going into the valve (will have a selenoide, cylinder shape on top and have 2 wires plugged in to it). Unscrew the hose/pipe from the water valve and get a small wide bucket or pot and aim the hose/pipe to it. Slowly have someone open the water valve from under the sink while you hold it in the bucket/pot. If you hear the knocking again, you will need a plumber to check the pipes, hoses and water valve at your wall. If you don't here the knocking noise, just replace the dishwasher inlet/fill water valve part # 785330. http://www.repairclinic.com/0080.asp. Please post back.