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Re: oiler not working
Oil System Plugged: 1. Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. • Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. • Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). • Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). • If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2. 2. Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. • Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. • If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). • Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. 3. If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL for the location).
The IPL (exploded parts list) for your saw is the only detail for the oil system and it is sketchy at best. Oiler components and part numbers are listed but may be on different illustrations. They are also beneficial with disassembly/reassembly: HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000; please contact Husqvarna for single digit clarificationhttp://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/) 15 = week produced – March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Check the IPL for your saw to see if any special tools are needed. Poulan (Craftsman, Jonsered, Husky) clutch removal tool part number 530031112 if needed, is under $5 from many sources (look at the visible area between the weights if 2 small round sockets are visible you need the tool).
There are metal piston stops available, when square (almost never) with the piston top these work well, if not square they have been known to punch through the piston. I suggest a length of nylon rope (nothing left behind) be used instead of the piston stop (retain 6" ± so you can remove it). Make certain the piston is near the top of the cylinder before feeding the cord or it can fall through the exhaust port and damage the piston as it rises.
Everyone I have ever removed had a left handed thread (tighten it to loosen it).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck. Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
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All Husqvarna chainsaws have the clutch spun onto the crankshaft with a left hand thread, this makes them self tightening, if there is a nut as part of the clutch centre you can use a socket and speed brace to jat the clutch off against compression, a impact wrench works great for this, if there is no nut there will be a special tool for it, it depends on the model as to which tool you need,
Too replace the pipe you need to remove the sprocket, clutch and oil pump, start by removing the e clip and washer retaining the sprocket ( dont lose the bearing ) there is a special tool to remove the clutch, or if you do not have this, insert a sturdy flat screw driver into on of the cut a ways in the clutch spider, and strike with a hammer you will have to strike numerous times to jar the clutch off ( left hand thread ) once off, remove the cross head screw holding the steele bar protection plate and remove, remove the two 4mm allen screws securing the oil pump, knock the chain brake on, this will allow enough movment of the brake band to remove the brass delivery tube from the pump, the pump will now come away, the pick up pipe will now just pull out of the tank.
There is very little to go wrong with the pump, it is more likly a blockage, remove the pump, and take out the pick up pipe, on the end of the pipe is a filter which may be clogged, blow through all oil channels, i am sure it will then oil.
It sure is, there have been issues with the pick up pipe kinking, the filter being to fine to allow oil flow, it is possible to increase oil flow by increasing the angle on the pump shat, but this is a dealer mod.
An IPL with oiler components and part numbers can be here: HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – for use with IPL 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week Our job is to provide the knowledge and illustrations available to help you determine which oiler component has likely failed. Your job is to apply that knowledge and make the final determination. If you aren’t comfortable doing that then your only option short of saw disposal is your friendly local chainsaw seller/mechanic. You might be pleasantly surprised at how reasonable they are. Oil System Plugged.
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar) Clean the saw’s oiler hole and channel. Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw.
If no, continue with 2.Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is probably left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. GL
This isn't an easy repair. You'll need to take off the pto clutch and that might not be easy. The oiler is behind the clutch. There is a drive gear behind the clutch that drives the oiler. You should check to make sure oil is getting from the reservoir to the pump. That is easiest to do with the pump off the saw.
If you take it to your local Stihl dealer, unless the pump is shot, this is not a complicated or expensive repair.
I have a 1981 model, it has an adjusting screw under the clutch assy. The screw is visibile (and probably accessible) without removing the clutch. It is a slotted screw with the numbers 1-4 around it. It changes the length of the stroke of the pump (though not by much). Mine is putting out too little oil.