Question about Whirlpool Duet 7.0 Cu. Ft. Super Capacity Plus Electric Dryer

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Electric Heating Element

I checked the continuity across the heating element (Red and Red/white stripe wires). There is no continuity; therefore, I assume that the element is shorted. I was unable to take out the complete heating element housing assembly after removing 2 screws that hold the element in front. I jiggled and it moves but does not come out of the rear hold. Please suggest how to remove this element housing and replace it with a new element. Thermal switches mounted below the element housing show continuity. I would appreciate your help to save a service call from appliance repair company.
Thanks

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No continuity would mean the element is OPEN, or showing an infinite resistance reading. If the element were SHORTED, it would read 0 ohms. These elements are supposed to read 9 to 13 ohms if good. Double check and make sure have your meter scale set correctly. You should be taking resistance checks on the lowest scale of Rx1.

If you have confirmed the element is defective, and the model dryer is correct, the element should pull out of the heater box by removing two screws on the left hand side of the box. You will need to remove the thermal cut-out (TCO) and hi-limit thermostat in order to accommodate removal of the element. These are the two components that are mounted on the side of the heater box. You leave the wires connected, and simply remove any mounting screws that hold them in place. This will keep the element from coming out of the heater box.

If these instructions are not clear, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER so I can understand how your dryer is configured.

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following two links can give you some added advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions. I'm assuming this is a Whirlpool Electric Dryer, because of the illustration you posted the question under. I hope you find this information is helpful.

If you would like some added advice that can help you in the future, Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that you can to help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.

Posted on May 10, 2010

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1 Answer

I am trying to take the back off of my Whirlpool clothes dryer model LEQ8611LW1 to replace the heating element, but the back will not come off. How do I get to the heating element?


The dryer doesn't have a removable rear access panel and the heating element is accessible through the bottom front panel. Using a flat-blade screwdriver, locate and release the two bottom front panel clips approximately 4 inches from the sides.
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Once the panel is off, locate the heating element housing is on the right side and remove the hex-head screw from the heater shield.
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Remove the hex-head screw from the side of the heater housing and slide the heating element out then slide the new heating element in and secure it with the hex-head screw.

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Note:

The heating element is not necessarily busted and needs to be replaced when the dryer fails to heat up. The first thing to look at is the thermal cut-off. It blows open and cut power to the heating element if the high-limit thermostat is faulty. Disconnect the red wire from the thermal cut-off and the red/white stripe wire from the heater. Connect the red wire disconnected from the thermal cut-off to the heater terminal where the red/white stripe wire is disconnected from.

Reconnect power then start the dryer. The problem is indeed with the two bypassed components if the dryer heats up. Replace both the thermal cut-off and the high-limit thermostat and it should solve the heating problem. Do not use the dryer with those parts bypassed due to high risk of fire hazards.

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Y'ou are zeroing in on your problem. Read the info below and hopefully you will have your answer:
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Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

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1 Answer

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Better to test a heating element for voltage with your meter like I described to you in your other question. I've seen heating elements read good when just doing a continuity test, however once voltage is applied and they start to heat they can expand and open up, thus not work, even though testing good when doing just a continuity test. Not always, but sometimes, it does happen enough to note to you.

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