Question about Kenmore 23822 Top Load Washer

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My washer stopped working how do i know its the coupler.

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This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump
removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Without knowing the exact symptoms of the problem (does the motor run, can you smell anything, have you tried a different cycle etc) Here are two things to check (the most likely possibilities):


Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the washer still doesn't work, check the motor coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the

transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or
spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=135

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Posted on May 10, 2010

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The Hot Point washing machine has stopped agitating but does spin-what is wrong?


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The most usualthing wrong when the Hotpoint brand washer doesn't agaitate is a stripped agitater coupler,i don't see a model number in your question so i don't know if yours uses that coupler but its by far the leading thing wrong with that problem.

This youtube video will show ya how to replace that coupler,watch it and take off your agitator to see if that's the problem. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N26MCQKuXn0


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How do you tell if your washer motor coupler has gone bad? Motor couplers are used on "Whirlpool" direct-drive washing machines. In some Whirlpool or Whirlpool-made washing machines, the motor coupler connects the drive motor to the transmission. It operates under extreme conditions and stress. Mostly during start-up and stopping of the motor. The main symptom of a bad motor coupler in the Whirlpool made washing machines is that there is no agitation or spinning action, along with the sound of the motor running. Since the motor is running, but there is no connection to the transmission, the machine will not agitate or spin the clothes out. The motor will simply run, but nothing else happens. In this case, the coupler is most likely cracked. To replace the coupler in the Whirlpool made washer, you must first unplug the washer, remove the top console by either removing the screws or using a putty knife to unsnap the top clips, rotate the console back, pull the washer front off by tilting back,and set the cabinet aside. Remove the clips holding the pump and motor on. Remove the bolts holding the motor on. Inspect the coupler and replace with a coupler if necessary. Re-assemble the motor and pump assembly. Re-assemble the washer in reverse order of disassembly. Plug in and test by running the washer through it's paces.Here is a video on repairing the motor coupler.

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My Whirlpool LSR6232J serial 4217141


If the washer fills, but fails to agitate or spin, the likely cause is a failed motor coupling. There is usually a loud rattling noise associated with a broken coupler. This may be the noise you hear. NOTE: The washer will STILL drain if the motor coupling is bad. The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385252-replacing_motor_coupling_whirlpool_top

If the washer fills, may or may not agitate, then stops right after filling, or just before the spin cycle*, you more than likely have a failed lid switch. NOTE: The washer will NOT drain with a defective lid switch. The following link explains how to replace a lid switch:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385199-replacing_lid_switch_whirlpool_top

* These symptoms vary between models. The result is still the same, however, the washer generally stops at some point before the spin cycle and will not complete a wash load.

Read through both links and try to determine your symptoms. When it comes to lid switches, they sometimes come loose and only need to be retightened. Double check the mounting screws. In most cases, the clicking sound of the switch indicates the switch is good. However, I have found where the actual switch assembly was cracked or separated and made a similar sound, but the contacts were not engaging. Inspect the entire switch, if in doubt.

Motor Couplers allow for the Drive Motor to drive the transmission. This is the connecting link between the two. The coupler takes the punishment in order to protect the motor and transmission from damage. If you are in the habit of washing heavy loads (i.e., blankets, comforters, etc.) this can reduce the life of the coupler. A tell tale sign of a broken coupler is a pile of black filings under the washer. This is usually particles of the rubber bushing between the coupler halves. Another thing that happens is the center hole of the plastic coupler would round out and spin on the either motor or transmission shaft as the older couplers were made entirely of plastic. Replacement couplers (the part number I provided in the link) now have a steel grommet in the center of the plastic which prevents this from happening.

If you check both these possibilites and you still have problems, let me know. I'm trying to rule out the possibility of something more significant, like a transmission problem. Both of these parts are inexpensive (about $50 combined) and can be found at searspartsdirect.com. Just type in your model number in the search menu. The lid switch is located under the "Top and Cabinet" heading as item number 11 (part number 3949247). The Motor Coupling can be located under the "Brake/Clutch/Gearcase/Motor/Pump" heading as item number 13 (part number provided in the link). For comparative shopping, repairclinic.com also carries these parts, sometimes at a reduced price.

I hope this helps you. If you have questions, please let me know.

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