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How do i get the spring back into the recoil - Craftsman 25cc Gas Line Trimmer

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  • Ed Gore May 11, 2010

    Which one?

  • Ed Gore May 11, 2010

    Have no idea what you are talking about? Too vague dude! That is like me asking you, "how do I put the screw back to the winder?" Now, from just that you know what I am talking about? Not being a wise guy but we need to be able to picture whats on your mind. It makes sense to you because its your experience, but to anyone here...big ?


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I think he's trying to replace the recoil starter spring. He's having trouble getting the spring and pully and rope back into the housing. I'm trying to do the same thing with an old Green Machine weedeater and would appreciate any help.

Posted on May 27, 2010

  • Paul Schneider
    Paul Schneider May 29, 2010

    Thanks for the detailed response. On my Green Machine there are no screws holding the spring or pully in place. The spring just lays flat in the housing, the pulley engages the spring and the whole contraption is held onto the weedeater by three screws. This is an old weedeater that I inherited and I'm wondering if it's missing some parts. I can't get the spring to lay down in the starter housing with out it losing tension and coming apart. The new spring came in a wire retainer under tension, but when I put it in the housing and remove the retainer it unwinds and goes all over the place. Any help would be appreciated.


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Well, The problem with a lot of those rewind coil issues, for me anyway, usually stems from the fact that I don't have 3 or even sometimes 4 hands! Some of those have to be placed into position under "full tension" in the spring or 2 problems arise. 1) The rope won't recoil "the full length" back in. or 2) it will recoil back in, but with far too much energy (Wound too tight). So the real trick is to "tweak" the rewind in such a way that it takes all the line back, in a normal feel. With any of those recoil systems its always best to have "full access" to the spring(s). Some have coiled up, flat, blue steel, bands. Usually encased, and the start string winds around that encased spring/band and creates "more tension" when you pull. Very much like a tape measure works. When these types of recoilers fail its usually due to 2 things. One end of the band is usually anchored at the center inside of the enclosed pulley. This "anchor" has broken or let go due to "wear" or friction. It simply "breaks" instead of holding. And other designs use regular springs, but rely on more complication to work. (more parts) And to worsen it further, each mfgr. has its own unique designs! (Take that consumer!) But I'll assume you have the flat band wound type. Copied from the "ASK ME" Help desk:

You will have to separate the fan housing/shroud (WeedEater's term from their parts manual) and remove the pulley. It will require a 5/32" Allen wrench to remove the four screws. There will be another shorter screw holding a metal plate shaped like an elongated "D" at one of the bottom corners that holds the pulley in. There will be a small screw with a washer attached in the pulley that will probably have the small remaining piece of the original rope. Remove it and the and the small piece of rope. The part number for it is 530069232, but going to a power equipment dealer and requesting 3 ft. of high quality rope of size 3.5 will suffice. High quality rope will have a braided exterior and three inner core strands. With the new rope insert it; if you bought bulk, make sure the ends are burned to prevent unravelling. There will be a cuved groove that the rope fits in and is bound by the small screw/washer. Do NOT overtighten and strip. Wind the rope in a counter-clockwise direction on pulley as referenced by the side that you would see if mounted in housing. Put through eyelet in housing, into starter grip and secure with a knot. Slip the pulley into replace after winding up slack and pretension. To pretension You must wind the pulley two turns counter-clockwise to remove the slack and make the rope fully rewind when used. There could be a single notch in the pulley to facilltate this , or a number of scallops around the pulley. Holding the pulley loosely in place with a finger, take a pair of needle nose pliers and ease the rope toward you in a loop long enough to make the revolutions. Care must be taken to keep the pulley seated on the spring during this to achieve the pretensioning. Once done replace the screw and plate to hold the pulley in place. Seat the housing to the engine, a small, short pull of the rope may be necessary to get the starter pawls into position. Holding It in place, test it by pulling it slowly through to see if all works correctly. Then and only then do you reinstall the four screws that hold it together.
That does it and, if all other things are functioning properly, the machine should be startable. A note: there is no reason in the world to pull the rope to full extension, ie all the way out until it stops; that breaks starters! You only need 12 to 18" of the 3 ft. of rope to start a working machine.
PS. I could have repaired three of these machines in the time it took me to write this answer.

Posted on May 29, 2010

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