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I've had this problem with other models. You tension for the needle thread is too loose I think. Try tightening the tension wheel somewhere in the threading path. As a matter of fact, if the thread is not threaded correctly this could also cause this.
This same problem made me NUTS,but its simple to fix.The hose and/or fitting to the disposal is probably full of ground up food bits from the disposal.You can take the hose off and run a small bottle brush through it to clean it out.Or if you happen to have a hose big enough(like a car radiator hose),you might just be able to just pop the cap off and put the hose around the valve,press tighly to the sink,and just blow some air in the hose(helps if you have the lung capacity of a singer like I do).
To replace the parts you have to buy a whole dispenser assemble for $100 to $200. To buy some time ... Get a heavy gage sewing needle - hold it with pliers and heat it red hot. Stick the hot end into the plastic door at the area where the plastic latch is (where it will line up with the far end of the latch mechanism). when it cools cut off most of the needle leaving one eight to one sixteenth (more or less) protruding. Use a drill and small bit to remove some plastic (or drill a small hole) on the spring latch mechanism. push the remaining part of the needle in or out to engage the hole in the latch.. this will hold awhile.
Yes it can get plugged. Any debris pumped up to the arm can get lodged into the tiny holes. Also, sometimes the arm itself becomes split along the joint between the lower and upper half. Remove the arm to inspect, clean, and repair/replace the arm if split. I fixed our Maytag spray arm when it split, by drilling a series of small holes along the split parts and sewing the thing back together with fairly fine copper wire. Still working great after a number of years. The small spray holes can be poked clean with a heavy needle and the arm vacuumed out. If after all this it still won't spray properly, the intake screen at the bottom of the lower spray arm tower may need to be cleaned as well. Remove components starting with the spray arm and work your way down, noting placement and orientation of each piece. Remove the screen, and soak it in hot water, detergent and white vinegar for an hour or so. Check all holes in the deck for any food plugging. Reassemble in reverse order and check the lower spray arm for plugging as well. Hope some of this helps!
Test the heater element first. Each wire is connected to a terminal using a slip-on connector. Grasp the connector and pull on it firmly. DO NOT
pull on the wire itself. Pull only from the connector. You may decide
you need to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to help you.
Use your multimeter to test the heating element for continuity. Set the device to the ohms setting
x 1. Touch each meter probe to a terminal. You should receive a reading
somewhere in between infinity and zero. Because of the variety of makes
and models of dishwashers, it is quite difficult to say exactly what
the reading should be for each and every possible model. However, if
the test you conduct produces a reading of infinite resistance (meter's
needle does not move), then that is indicative of a faulty heating
element, and you should replace yours. Similarily, if the test you
conduct produces a reading of zero resistance (meter's needle moves to
the other extreme of the scale), then that is also indicative of a
faulty heating element, and you should replace yours.