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I need the manual for a univolt DT-810 digitial volt meter.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: It is write in the description "Charges all DEWALT

The Univolt batteries were small pod-type batteries that fit into the handle of their drills and other tools. The entire line of Univolt batteries have been discontinued. You can see a few pictures of Univolt batteries at http://www.dewalt.com/Search/univolt.aspx. The Univolt batteries and charger are on page 2.

Posted on Feb 17, 2011

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Overheating


Hi, Ulilu you may have a faulty temperature sensor for this situation I would call my local dealer or reputable shop's service/parts department and inquire about any possible quick fix, answers, or parts inquiry. For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Hi, Kair140 it's 6 volts for more information about your question and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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What other tools will the Dewalt DC9098 18v battery power?


Hi Joe,

Welcome to fixya!

Dewalt says it is compatible with all their 18v tools, except the univolt.

Please place a vote.
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Jun 24, 2011 | Dewalt 18v 18 Volt 1/2" Compact Battery...

1 Answer

2001 Yamaha DT 125 R not charging


Hi, Samellis before testing any electrical component in the Charging System it is "IMPERATIVE" that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper "LOAD" test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced. AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead acid batteries.
1. Battery Test:
The battery needs to be a fully charged and load tested to ensure proper readings, connections need to be clean and tight. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.
2. Charging System Voltage Test:
Start motorcycle, measure DC volts across the battery terminals you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts.
3. Connections and wires:
Inspect the regulator stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there's a failed component.
4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check: Each of the following tests isolates the Stator & Rotor. If AC output and resistance test fail and stator test passes then the rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).
5. AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts. Probe both stator wires with your meter lead. The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
Stator Resistance Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale. Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on the meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. Reading will vary depending on the system, check the service manual for specifications.
Generic Specs:
22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
Stator ground Check:
Switch your multimeter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on the multimeter and the negative to ground.
There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity your stator is shorted to ground and must be replaced.
5. Regulator Test:
Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.
Identifying Wires:
Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to the regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Ensure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tightly to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test:
This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multimeter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multimeter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multimeter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire. The reading should be Infinite. With your meter on the same setting, place your multimeter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multimeter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires. The reading should be Infinite.
Note: Below is a table to show the readings:
Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ?
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ?
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ?
AC output 2 Ground ?
For more information about your issue and valuable "FREE" downloads that you will need please click on the blue links below. Good luck and have a wonderful day.
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Jun 17, 2017 | 2001 Yamaha DT 125 R

1 Answer

It is write in the description "Charges all DEWALT


The Univolt batteries were small pod-type batteries that fit into the handle of their drills and other tools. The entire line of Univolt batteries have been discontinued. You can see a few pictures of Univolt batteries at http://www.dewalt.com/Search/univolt.aspx. The Univolt batteries and charger are on page 2.

Feb 17, 2011 | Dewalt 7.2-18.0 Volt One Hour Charger

1 Answer

My battery is not charging, I put in new battrey and still has the same problem..


If you're sure the battery is good. we'll test the charging system first. You'll need a DVOM (digitial volt ohm meter) to test the system. Start with a fully charged battery. Connect the red meter lead to the positive post of the battery and the black meter lead to the negative. Put the function selector switch of the meter in DC VOLTS, 20 VOLT or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. You should read between 14.5 - 15.0 Volts. If not proceed to the stator test.

Look down on the front of your engine and find the plug coming out of the case where the voltage regulator plugs into the engine case connector. Unplug this connector. Down inside the connector are two contacts. These contacts are where we're going to put the meter leads. It makes no difference which lead goes where as we're measuring AC voltage. Put the meter's function selector switch in AC VOLTS, 50 VOLTS or greater. Start the engine and bring it to a high idle. Touch the meter leads to the two contacts down in the case. You should read at least 30 volts.

So, if you don't read the 30 volts at the engine case, the stator is bad. If you 30 volts or higher but the test at the battery was bad, replace the regulator.

Good Luck
Steve

Sep 02, 2010 | 2006 Harley Davidson FLHR Road king

1 Answer

I have a 2002 Harley Softail and when it is turned off i hear a clicking sound. This seems to drain the battery. I did put in a battery tender


How long does this ticking sound last? Whenever you stop the engine, the exhaust system starts to cool and the heat shields make a clicking sound. This usually stops after about ten to fifteen minutes. If the clicking continues after about thirty minutes, you may have something strange going on but I can't imagine what.

As for your battery doing down, if the battery is over two years old, this is not unusual. I'd take the battery out of the bike and take it to an automotive parts house. Ask them if they will do a load test on the battery. The battery may just be about ready to give up the ghost. Motorcycles are tougher on batteries than automobiles due to the vibration.

Now. to check you charging system, with the battery fully charged, put a DVOM (digitial volt ohm meter) across the battery. Red lead to positive, black lead to negative. Put the meter selector in DC volts, 20 -50 volt range. Start the engine and bring the engine to a high idle. You should read 14.5-14.8 volts across the battery. If so, the charging system is working as it should. If not, repost and we'll go from there.

Good Luck
Steve

Jun 16, 2010 | 2002 Harley Davidson FXST Softail Standard

1 Answer

1990 FLSTC. Lights are dim and trouble starting. When running it wants to die and runs rough>


It sounds like you've got a charging system problem. To check this, first you must charge your battery fully. Take the seat off the bike, two large bolts on either side of the seat. Then with a fully charged battery, start the bike. Using Digitial Volt Ohm meter, put the red lead of the meter to the positive terminal of the battery and the black lead to the negative terminal. Put the meter in 50 volt DC range. The voltage should start out at about 12.5 volts and slowly build up to nearly 14.5-15.0 volts. If it does not, something is wrong.

Now, down on the engine on the left side near the end of your oil filter there is a connector plug. Disconnect this plug and you'll see two pins down inside the plug in the engine case. Put your meter in the AC 50 range. This is the stator of your alternator and the output is Alternating Current, thus the AC setting on your meter. Now, start the bike and bring it to a fast idle. Put one lead from the meter to either pin and the other lead to the other pin. It makes no difference which pin since its AC current. You should read at least 20 volts. Typically it reads somewhere between 25-30 Volts AC depending on how fast your engine is running. If this checks right, your alternator stator is good.

Check the plug that you unplugged from the engine case. Make sure the sockets up inside the rubber plug are clean and that they make good contact with the pins. Check the ground on your regulator. I like to put one of those "star" lockwashers between the regulator and the frame of the bike on each bolt to insure the regulator has a good ground. Also, if you don't already have one, buy yourself one of those clips that holds the plug together when it's plugged in. I've seen the back out and not make contact while the engine is running.

Now that you know your alternator is good and your regulator is properly plugged in, run the first test again. If the test still shows a low voltage at the battery, replace the regulator. But, you MUST use a fully charged battery to do this test otherwise you'll get a low reading. Good Luck

Jan 18, 2010 | 2005 Harley Davidson FLSTC - FLSTCI...

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