The dryer screen has a felt lining that has, again, come loose and has detached in one part. I have had the dryer for 6 months and believe this problem should not be happening. What do you suggest?

It is not recommended to use super glue to reattach the felt gasket on a lint screen. The lint screen is typically located in your dryer and its purpose is to capture lint and debris that may be generated during a drying cycle. The felt gasket on the lint screen helps to prevent lint from escaping into the dryer and causing potential fire hazards.
If the felt gasket has come loose or detached from the lint screen, it is recommended to replace the entire lint screen assembly rather than attempting to glue the felt back in place. The reason is that super glue may not adhere well to the felt material, and it may not be able to withstand the high temperatures and humidity inside the dryer. Also, the super glue may release harmful fumes during the drying cycle that could be hazardous to your health.
Replacing the lint screen assembly is a straightforward process that typically involves removing the old screen and installing the new one. You can consult your dryer's user manual or contact the manufacturer for guidance on how to replace the lint screen.

If you take front of dryer off, there is a half moon shaped piece of felt on top of door opening that most likely has worn and leaves a gap between drum and where that felt is. Replace that for right drum fit.

most likely coming from your washer....when clothes are wet it harder to see marks....washer needs new seals.

I had the same problem. Unfortunately, it is caused by a rusting drum edges, if you can believe it. My dryer was only 6 years old when this problem occured. There are felt gaskets on the front and back of the drums where it contacts and rotates on the frame of the dryer. You can take a white cloth and run it around the rim of the front and back of the drum and I suspect you will end up with some discoloration on the cloth. I had these felt gaskets replaced, but that is only a temp solution. When the drum is taken out and the old felt gaskets are removed, you can clean the edges of the drum and get a lot of rust/brown off the drum. New gaskets are only a temp fix. I did it about 1 1/2 yr ago, and I think the problem is starting again. Probably time for a new dryer or time to pull the drum and clean it. New drum probably cost prohibitive if you can get one. What a bunch of **** for a 7 1/2 old dryer. Next dryer will have a stainless steel drum. Hope this explanation helps you with your problem.
Steve

Here are a few ideas:
1) check the filter screen for holes,
2) check the screen for shape
3) check the screen for tight fit (it should fall/snap into a snug fit)
4) check the drum for a loose fit (there is a felt kit you can buy for this)
5) unplug the dryer and get old lint out of the duct in the unit and between the unit and the outside
and
TRY it again!

That is an accurate description
the drum of all dryers is suspended from a combination of
felt pads at the drum ends
nylon glides under the drum
rubber tired thrust rollers.
the rubber tires wear, and the drum shifts, this pinches and wears the felts, then there is enough space to pinch the clothes in the gap
It is a simple enough fix, and well worthwhile, felts glides and rollers are cheap in comparison to new dryers.
Generically all dryers are pretty much the same, so when you go to the parts store, the felts rollers and glides may be labelled whirlpool or kenmore
they will fit exactly, there are very few that fit very many models.

To do the job

• UNPLUG DRYER
• If a top mounted lint screen, remove lint screen and 2 screws under lint screen from top of case
• with a putty knife or other blunt blade release spring clips at front corners of lid, retaining lid to front panel
• tilt lid up
• remove 1screw each side 1/3 way down front
• disconnect door switch wires
• remove front panel and door
• pull tensioner to end of its travel against tensioner spring, and unhook belt
  (Note:: position of belt around tensinoer and motor pulleys for reinstall)
• pull drum out forwards
• motor, pulleys, support rollers, felts, and glides can now be inspected

good roller
bad roller
rollers are in pairs, if one is worn replace both

Inspect felts and nylon glides where fitted, any wear - replace

to replace felts
requirements 2 or more pairs locking pliers(visegrips) hitemp silicone adhesive

• pull old felt off
• scrape off old adhesive
• spread gllue on drum edge
• secure felt on drum with visegrip
• pull felt into place, clip with visegrip, pull again clip with visegrips, work around until felt is attached to drum and clipped in place
• allow glue to set

nylon glides, if fitted replace easily, a central screw, or glue

reassemble in reverse order

The belt on a dryer is inside the body, usually accessed and changed as follows

most base dryers

• unplug dryer(220v is Not Fun)
• remove lint screen
• undo screws inside lint screen holder, screwing it to case lid (so lid can tilt up)
• with putty knife or other blunt blade, release spring catches under front corners of case lid
• raise case lid
• remove screws 1/3 way down front corners of body holding front panel on
• remove door switch cable from door switch
• lift door off set aside

maytag

• remove screws from bottom bend of front panel
• lift front panel off
• remove doo switch cable
• sent front panel aside

1. drum motor felts and bearings are now accessible.
2. lift drum and withdraw fully forwards
3. with drum removed check support rollers for free movement, check drum slides and/or drum felts for wear, easier to replace now, if worn, than have bearings or slides cause belt to break again.
4. loop belt loosely around drum at wear marks from prior installation
5. reinsert drum onto rollers bearings slides felts as installed.
6. loop belt around motor pulley
7. pull tensioner pulley against spring to end of its travel
8. loop belt around tensioner pulley
9. relax tensioner pulley to tighten belt
10. rotate drum by hand to ensure belt is aligned

reassemble case in reverse order.

Notes
There are not many belt, felt, support roller sizes the local parts guy will have a belt, felt, roller to fit,

Tensioner pulley may not be in place, breaking belts often pull them out of their mounts, the pulley and spring will be lying on the case floor, there is only one way they fit in to their mounts so they are easy to reinstall

tensioner sketch is approximate, pulley may be on top run pulling down, or bottom run pushing up

the repair is easy, it takes longer to type or read this than it does to repair the dryer

Belts ~$14 Support Rollers ~$14/pair, felts/slides upto ~$25
New dryer +$200 - its a good repair

the drum has dropped
the drum is suspended on felt pads to seal the drum edges, nylon guides at the front, and rubber tyred thrust rollers to withstand the torque of the motor and belt at the rear.
the usual cause is the rollers have failed, common fault, easy fix, cheap too
good rollers look like this
worn rollers like this

try not to run the dryer till the rollers are replaced, the extra strain will break the belt,

• unplug dryer(220v is Not Fun)
• remove lint screen
• undo screws inside lint screen holder, screwing it to case lid (so lid can tilt up)
• with putty knife or other blunt blade, release spring catches under front corners of case lid
• raise case lid
• remove screws 1/3 way down front corners of body holding front panel on
• remove door switch cable from door switch
• lift door off set aside

1. drum motor felts and bearings are now accessible.
2. pull tensioner fully agains spring
3. remove belt from motor pulley
4. lift drum and withdraw fully forwards
5. with drum removed check support rollers for free movement, check drum slides and/or drum felts for wear

reassemble.

1. loop belt loosely around drum at wear marks from prior installation
2. reinsert drum onto rollers bearings slides felts as installed.
3. loop belt around motor pulley
4. pull tensioner pulley against spring to end of its travel
5. loop belt around tensioner pulley
6. relax tensioner pulley to tighten belt
7. rotate drum by hand to ensure belt is aligned

reassemble case in reverse order.

The belt on a roper dryer is inside the body, accessed and changed as follows

• unplug dryer(220v is Not Fun)
• remove lint screen
• undo screws inside lint screen holder, screwing it to case lid (so lid can tilt up)
• with putty knife or other blunt blade, release spring catches under front corners of case lid
• raise case lid
• remove screws 1/3 way down front corners of body holding front panel on
• remove door switch cable from door switch
• lift door off set aside

1. drum motor felts and bearings are now accessible.
2. lift drum and withdraw fully forwards
3. with drum removed check support rollers for free movement, check drum slides and/or drum felts for wear, easier to replace now, if worn, than have bearings or slides cause belt to break again.
4. loop belt loosely around drum at wear marks from prior installation
5. reinsert drum onto rollers bearings slides felts as installed.
6. loop belt around motor pulley
7. pull tensioner pulley against spring to end of its travel
8. loop belt around tensioner pulley
9. relax tensioner pulley to tighten belt
10. rotate drum by hand to ensure belt is aligned

reassemble case in reverse order.

Notes
There are not many belt, felt, support roller sizes the local parts guy will have a belt, felt, roller to fit,

Tensioner pulley may not be in place, breaking belts often pull them out of their mounts, the pulley and spring will be lying on the case floor, there is only one way they fit in to their mounts so they are easy to reinstall

tensioner sketch is approximate, pulley may be on top run pulling down, or bottom run pushing up

the repair is easy, it takes longer to type or read this than it does to repair the dryer

Belts ~$14 Support Rollers ~$14/pair, felts/slides upto ~$25
New dryer +$200 - its a good repair

you could try using "Permatex" hi-tack adhesive.  you need to remove the door where the bearings are first.