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Re: Hayward Model H250IDL is leaking water from drain...
Water leaking from the heater is not a good sign. This is an indication of a leaking heat exhanger. The heat exchanger will have to be replaced and the part is made of copper. It is very expensive, depending on the age, you may just want to replace the entire heater. Exchangers usually leak due to bad water chemistry.
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Most pool pump/filter systems are designed to achieve the minimum recommended flow rate. A pump system with at least 1HP motor should achieve the minimum flow rate, but a 0.75HP motor would likely also achieve it. The Hayward H series heaters do not include a water flow rate sensor, but rather use a water pressure sensor to verify the pump is operating. If the system has insufficient water flow even when the pressure is within normal operating limits, the heater will likely over heat and open the water pressure relief valve located on the outlet header. This condition could occur if the down-stream line is blocked (by a closed valve or similar condition). It is important to avoid this condition since the heater will release pressure via opening a relief valve, spilling water directly out of the heater manifold.
The only adjustment for hydraulic sensing within the H series heaters is the water pressure sensor. See other articles within fixya for this procedure.
A water heater can last you many years if you take proper care of it. Every few months, you should check your water heater for leaks and flush it out to avoid buildup of sediment inside the tank.
Before draining and flushing your water heater, turn off the gas or electrical power and let the water cool down a little. Close the incoming water valve, and attach a hose to the drain valve to run the water into a large bucket, or to a drain or the outdoors.
Open the drain valve, and turn on one hot water faucet somewhere in the house to let in air. When all the water has drained from the water heater, turn the cold water valve on and off until the water from the drain runs clear. Then close the drain valve and the hot water faucet, open the cold water valve, and turn the water back on.
This is also a good time to test the temperature-pressure relief valve, which keeps pressure in the boiler from building up too much. Lift or lower its handle. Water should drain from the overflow pipe. If it does not, call in a repair professional as this could result in a potentially dangerous situation.
After the engine has reached normal operating temperature, feel both heater hoses going into the firewall. Are both hot? If both are hot, it's probably the door or doors in the heater case not operating from the selector knob on the dash. If only one hose is hot, the coolant is not circulating through the heater core. Look for a water valve in the hoses that is shut. If no valve, crack open the cold line to see if you can start circulation through the core. If neither hose is hot, pull off the inlet to the heater core (it may come from the cylinder head area) and run the engine and check stream flow. It won't spurt out like a garden hose, it should flow out in a smooth even stream, maybe just enough pressure to push a steady stream. If no flow comes out, coolant is low, or there is a circulation problem in the engine, like a kinked hose, a weak water pump...
Does the radiator cap hold pressure in the cooling system?
please see the next step: he pilot light may be out or may not stay lit. There may not be enough
hot water, or the water may be too hot. The water heater may leak or be
noisy, or the hot water may be dirty. A problem with your water heater may be due to overwork, not mechanics.
If your water heater holds less than 15 gallons per family member (tank
volume is stamped on a metal plate affixed to most water heaters),
consider a larger unit or staggering your use of hot water. Drain a hot water tank:
Turn the gas-control knob to
off and close the gas-shutoff valve.
Close the cold-water supply valve and open a hot-water faucet in the house to speed draining.
Attach a garden hose to the drain valve and run it outside to a
drain. If the heater is in the basement you may need to run the hose to
or through a sump pump.
Open the drain valve and allow the tank to drain.
Once done, close the drain valve, open the cold-water supply valve,
and open any nearby hot-water faucet. When a steady stream of water
flows from that faucet, the tank is full; close the hot-water faucet.
Once the tank is full, turn on the gas and relight the pilot.
drain valve must have already been leaking, that's why someone put the cap on. It's ok to cap the drain but never the pressure/temp relief. If the water is coming out of the drain (not around it) you could either replace the cap or the drain valve to stop the leak - otherwise it's time for a new water heater.
hi my name is mark, is this electric or gas. either way you will most likely are going to have to replace it, but first check that its not the drain valve leaking. also if it is electric shut off power before you grab the drain valve so you dont get shocked.
There is 2 ways to do this.
The first way is to turn off the power. Turn off the incoming water (cold) to the heater. Go to a faucet close to the location. Turn off the cold water supply under the sink. Open the hot water side of the faucet. Allow any water to drain from the faucet. Make sure that the water coming out is not under pressure. You should be able to tell by how it come out. Easy, or forceful. Now go to the heater and open the bottom drain valve. The reason it does not drain very easy is because you have a vacuum. Similar to having a soda bottle full of water and turning it upside down. It will drain but it will "Glug" and drain slow. Opening the hot side of the faucet relieves the vacuum and it should drain o.k. When you are done with your repair, leave the hot side of the faucet open and turn on the incoming water to the heater on. Let it fill till you get a steady stream of water from the faucet. This "Burbs" all air out and ensures the tank is full prior to turning on the power. When you get the steady stream, turn off the faucet and restore power. In some cases, the heater may sweat because you are heating very cold water. This is normal and will only happen this one time.
Now if you want to know the second way, let me know. I've done it dozens of times with plenty of success and minimal mess.