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Hi , I have problem a refrigerator ?KitchenAid? mod #106.53552201 . Ice maker won?t work .I replaced ?Ice maker control module? and ?Emitter and receiver icemaker control???..Steel does not make ice . I had been checked the water valve by multimeter , same Khom . I don?t have same idea . Can you help . Water won?t com to the ice maker ..(((((((.

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  • ruslan pimutkin May 09, 2010

    Hi , I have problem a refrigerator ?KitchenAid? mod #106.53552201 . Ice maker won?t work .I replaced ?Ice maker control module? and ?Emitter and receiver icemaker control???..Steel does not make ice . I had been checked the water valve by multimeter , same Khom . I don?t have same idea . Can you help . Water won?t com to the ice maker ..(((((((.

    See less
    Water com from the dispenser ,and indicator light's water filter on dreen.

  • ruslan pimutkin May 09, 2010

    I will do it .Thank you .

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Once you have installed your ice maker parts, turned the water valve back on and made sure your freezer has been plugged back in to the wall socket, you will need to give your new ice maker parts a chance to work properly. This means allowing enough time for the water to move through the system, freeze, and be ejected as ice cubes into the ice tray. You could need to give the ice maker as much as two hours before you know whether you diagnosed the problem correctly. It's a good idea to do these repairs and replacement of ice maker parts on a day when you can hang around for the entire length of time it may take to make a new batch of ice. Doing so helps you recover from potential leaks and other problems that can arise from either a misdiagnosed problem or an incorrect installation or the ice maker parts that were replaced.

Ice cubs are stuck: If your ice maker is not ejecting the cubes properly, you should take a look at the ejector gear assembly. There are basically two kinds of ice makers; one version gives you access to all the replaceable or repairable ice maker parts. The other is what is known as a "module" ice maker. This type has all the parts grouped together in a unit. If you have this version, the ice maker parts you need to inspect can't be inspected or repaired. You can watch to see if the ice cube ejector blades are trying to work; if they don't, you will need to replace the whole control module. If you have the other type of ice maker, you can inspect your Kenmore icemaker parts, Frigidaire ice maker, etc. Look for a small box configuration with gears. The gears should not be worn or have teeth missing. If they are too worn, are cracked or are missing teeth, the gears should be replaced. Be careful when removing the gears. Some have fasteners that hold them in place; others simply sit on the shaft. Once you have the bad gear taken off, put the replacement ice maker gear part on and make sure the fit is good. Then try another batch of ice. The cubes should eject once more. If it doesn't work the first time, check the gears to make sure they are properly installed and try again.

Checking your water inlet valve: A filter screen on a water inlet valve is a Whirlpool ice maker part that can get dirty, block the flow of water and interfere with the operation of your ice maker. You can check the screen and test the inlet valve with an ohmmeter to see if it needs replacing. This Kitchenaid ice maker part is at the bottom part of the fridge in the rear. Shut off your freezer, and the water supply valve. The inlet valve has wires connecting it to the fridge. Disconnect them. There is a filter screen where the supply hose attaches to the inlet valve. Check and clean this ice maker part. If you find a lot of debris or other kinds of obstruction, this may well be your culprit. No additional ice maker parts will be necessary. If you still aren't sure this was your problem, you can test the inlet valve with an ohmmeter to see if the electrical portion has failed, but this Kitchenaid ice maker part can also go bad in a mechanical way. You may get a good reading on the meter, but still need to replace the valve if it has become mechanically defective. If your troubleshooting has exhausted all the other possibilities, replace the water inlet valve.


Other reasons why your ice maker may not be making ice: An icemaker has something called a fill cup, which holds the water from the supply hose as it is being drained into the ice mold. If this ice maker part is not aligned properly, water doesn't make it from the supply valve to the ice mold, and you don't get any ice. Check to make sure your fill cup is properly aligned. You can check this ice maker part by removing the ice bin and having a look, adjusting if necessary. If you have ice forming on the water spout, you could have a leaky water inlet valve, another ice maker part which will need to be repaired.

Hope this help as first step tp solve it.

Posted on May 09, 2010

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This happens all the time to me its when your filter gets clogged just change your filter in your fridge. easy fix

Posted on May 09, 2010

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Some precautions before diagnosing the icemaker optics system since there are two different sets of emitter-receiver optics boards and therefore two entirely different procedures for emitter-receiver optics board diagnosis. This could get really tricky especially when the appropriate tech sheet isn’t handily available. To determine which optics diagnostic procedure should be employed, open the freezer door and observe the right side (mullion or partition side) LED status light. If the red LED is NOT flashing two repeating pulses, this usually indicates the older style emitter-receiver optics boards are used and its specific diagnosis procedure should be employed. But then again, this could also mean that the new optics system IS used but the icemaker just happens to be in the harvest mode - OR - the LED (optics receiver) has failed in some bizarre twist of fate. However, keeping the above cautions in mind, we can assume that normally the older emitter-receiver optics system will NOT have its red LED status light flashing each time the freezer door is opened, while the NEW style optics WILL have its red LED status light double pulsing at each door opening.

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Thanks but, I knew this part was working


Iceman, here's a little deal I wrote, check it out, Catriver
Diagnosing Whirlpool and Kenmore s/s with ice bucket in door.
Upon opening of the door the emitter light should flash 2 times with a pause repeatedly. Then when holding the left side emitter flap down the light should stay on steady. If you have this scenerio, your emitter boards are working properly. If you do not, check the following:
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