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Adding in line filter to radio and did not disconnect battery.....had a spark and now radio does not work....fuse is fine and radio makes a sound (mechanical) when attached to power....but does not turn on...

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  • moore_iv_jam May 09, 2010

    if it is the radio...how can i isolate the problem to make sure it is the problem??

  • moore_iv_jam May 09, 2010

    yes..it has a cd player..but there is NO power what so ever....

  • moore_iv_jam May 09, 2010

    yes...thanks.

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Chances are you blew eighter the output circuit or the power filter circuit.. The sound u hear is a humming capicator.. or wheering IC,, now you have 2 choices..

a.) remove radio ,, open it up and determine which parts need changing,, and replace them or take the radio to a shop and get it repaired..

b) replace it..

I usually stick with b cause for some reason when i get my stuff repaired they dont work as they once did,, i get lower performance and they have other issues or get damaged rather quickly..

Posted on May 09, 2010

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I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if you had a spark chances are the radio is done for.

Posted on May 09, 2010

  • Brian Niten May 09, 2010

    Does it have a CD player? See if one will play. I had a similar experience installing a car stereo. The radio was toast but the CD player still worked. Other than that you will need to take it to someone that can trouble shoot it as I did. I had to pay for the trouble shooting to find out the repairs would be more than a new radio.

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Connect the power leads directly to the battery - not the accessory terminal of the fuse block - nor "tap" into an existing 12 V power line you happen to find. Turn the radio on to an unused channel - it should be fairly static free. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position. It should still be clear - but if you hear a sudden spike of noise that lasts a few seconds before stopping, the static is likely to be coming from your fuel pump in your gas tank. The pump runs to pressurize the fuel lines to the fuel injectors when the key is turned to START. The Ford Explorer is notorious for this - but cab be reduced by following this link. It may work for your car, too.

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Install a "filter" on the radio power leads - as close to the radio as possible. Since the power leads act like an "antenna" for all kinds of under-hood noise sources and carry it right into the radio, they should be stopped before they enter the radio. A coil (called a "choke") inserted between the power source and the radio along with a capacitor between the 12V + lead and ground is an effective filter. These filters are commercially available everywhere and also on eBay.

If the noise is getting in the coax cable, make sure your antenna is well grounded. Resist the temptation to use a "mag mount" as the ground is poor if not non-existent. Some have had some luck using snap choke cores but I haven't used them myself.

Lastly, don't expect to remove ALL the noise. You'd be the first to do so. Some methods work better than others. You can find a wealth of info by googling "CB Noise Filter" or "12V filter" (no quotes)

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